aide

A bit of guidance please, can't find anything on search. I plan to change the fuel lines at the back, but looking at the actual pipes and ETKA it seems a mangle of separate pipes and bits, in order we have; tank supply nipple - rubber pipe - plastic pipe - rubber pipe - fuel filter - rubber pipe - plastic pipe to engine bay :cuckoo: the return pipe is less complicated, just a rubber pipe from the pump and onto a plastic pipe upto the engine bay. first question, do i need to drop the tank to replace these, or can i feed them through? second question, what's best to replace with, bearing in mind my local dealer is very good at ordering the wrong parts, all original, a simple rubber from supply nipple all the way to the hard pipe half way (fixings?), or the same types but ordered from somewhere like pirtek the pipe fitters? thoughts please :)

Yep, got it from euro car parts, they ordered wrong pump first time tho, its a VDO item, yours is late model so sender should suit.

changed the fuel pump, and have decided fuel pipes are in such a bad way at the back end that they need doing too... it never ends :) guess i need to drop the fuel tank for that job!? washed it for first time in months too.

sorry mate, just stumbling accross your thread again and see you asked a q a while back. positive its idling a little, but you must get that lamba plugged back in, extend the wiring, otherwise your ecu will be adjusting fuel mixture based on fresh air!

i'm surprised that looks so well on the vento, did the right thing keeping it black too, works well.

i collected the following today; 2 rear suspension strut to beam bolts/ nuts, four front carriers to hub bolts, 4 suspension strut nuts and bolts........£28 rathr surprised at the cost, gives peace of mind tho...

Got my Bosch book out here, says the coolant temp sender is a major input to the ecu, if that isnt plugged in will be running lean at start up.

You're using the 9a TB yeh?

ISV is controlled/ switched on by microswitch on the throttle body, check its making contact. there is a mixture screw on the airbox but its factory set and covered by a 'tamper' proof plug, the 2ltr mixture shouldn't be adjusted like a kr, its controlled by a solenoid on the side of the metering head instead. the screw on the TB is for adjusting air supply during idle only. i don't know much more than that about 9a's am afraid.

as above get them off to inspect, difficult to tell otherwise i changed the originals off mine yesterday - 93k and 17yrs - with new ones, and comparing side by side the only difference was about 10mm in depth and the centre hole was off centre, other than that they looked great, and you wouldn't spot when in position. does sound like your top nuts loose tho.

vr6 rear bushes are same as mk3's, earlier rados use the smaller mk2 rear bush. agree with Jim, especially as the rear beam oem items are designed to passively steer, i'd bet the polybushes wouldn't be.

broke the bleed nipple off the off side front caliper, guess that 288 conversion is gonna happen quicker than i planned. feck it i'm away surfing :wave:

lessened a few dings, better but not good enough.

you'll struggle, if you can manage it at all, the valve spring compressor has access through side so you can remove the colletts. compressors are £44 from halfords, get the bigger one like this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165469

yeh that'd be mine! sure it was cheap so knew i'd get that type of hassle :D yep seems a lot of ones get it, bimetallic corrossion i think, i coated my new one in a lot of grease when rebuilding.

/\ yep agree if it all goes well, there's pitfalls tho, here's some i found when doing mine; - siezed/ rounded off brake line nuts to the brake regulator, new line and nuts required - brake regulator bolts siezed as frequently are, mounting bracket had to be removed and regulator bolts grinded off, you can't slip the bush bolt out of mounting bracket without removing the regulator - again undoing flexi beam brake hose connectors bent the fixed brake line along the trailing arms, new line and nuts required - abs sensor was welded into the stub axle, so calipers, discs, backing plate and bearings off to address that. - the bearings are difficult to get back into the housing too. maybe a day is a wee bit too long, good car in good condition, yep maybe quicker

New OEM bushes are £36 quid each, not a small job, I'd say a day for a competent garage, took me a lot longer on my drive!

i'd be up for an RR day too.

true true - it did look mint sure don't want me to hold a meet up, its not only time related... my wallet can only take so much :lol: will see how i get on it next couple of weeks

great another one :) think i'll struggle for the 31st july tho, have to see how i get on with various things in next few weeks. yeh i remember that g60, they were looking a steep amount tho, around £5-6k wasn't it?

/\ yep i marked my mounting bracket location before removing so i put them back in exact factory position, it's gotta be a tight fit, i had to use a lever bar and rubber mallet to get one end back in, that's the pretensioning people go on about - i hope.

Check out the IPCC website for the facts.

great , that's 4 then. i'm a transplant and no expert on all the areas either, but i've been here 4 years and not known any trouble, who doesn't love a classic veedub anyway :D

july 2011...might have it in some kind of shape by then :grin: but yeh fine, maybe keep bumping this thread for week or two and see if others can make it?

thats 3 then, but only two cars, as mines off the road until July. be good to get a few more...