VW_OwneR_85

LOL thats how mine was setup!! , seriously though could that cause that side CV joint to make a cracking sound when on full lock? as it would be extended out further then it should , my cars allways had a mystery cracking noise just a straight forward loudish "crack" no little follow up noises or anything, only happens when i 3point turn reverse out of somewhere on full lock, turn lock to lock whilest staitonary and its silky smooth with no noises,

ah right cheers fo that,

the two common engine codes are AUE and BDE there are others but i belive the others are no different to the aue, aue has a coil pack with ht leads and im not 100% sure but i dont think this model has vvt? BDE is the later model and has vvt and individual coil on plugs thats the model i chose for my conversion. do you plan on getting this done as quickly as you can ? or is it a long winded project?

its useing the mk4 wireing and diagnostic port , was just a case of earth and a live and the K-line {which its position is noted in the ME7 pic i posted} there are two other CAN wires which are the twisted wires but i dont belive these get used in our situation but its wired up anyway, do you not have a port? get it put in if you dont!

you can tell this guy works for a big company, simply becuase it sounds like he couldnt give a rats a55...

cheers , not yet only had it idleing , i want to drive it and let it warm up properly before i start reving it as its been awhile since its been driven,ill more then likely get it insured next week as the weathers getting better,also spotted a bulge in the cutch slave cylinder flexy so looks like i will be replaceing that aswell! its never blady ending!!

if you use sealant make sure both surfaces are degreased and clean otherwise its pointless, sealant doesnt stick to oil! also dont go mad with it , you dont want much if any otherwise when the two surfaces compress together the excess will just squirt out into the sump and thats not exaclty good for anything.

i think its 6mm , i actualy jumped on it last night after doing my brake lines and couldnt find a spanner small enough but i have a good quality adjustable spanner that did the job .

finished off the brake lines! not fun at all!! scanned my ecu today to clear the 1fault previously logged, hopefully now it should stay fault free :) almost time to get some insurance :)

yea can understand where your comming from i was the same but didnt have a choice as i needed it all cheap as poss, but aslong as you buy from a reputable breaker on ebay you shouldnt have problems and if you do they can be resolved , if i was in your situation and lived in the uk i would find out where the nearest vw breakers yard is and phone them to see if they have this engine in a car that can be driven around there yard , agree on a price for the stuff you need and arrange a visit so you can go down and check it out and then have them remove it and pallet deliverd later in the week, also if your getting your loom work done by someone else have that loom {and ecu} back in your hands before you start stripping the car down unless your cars off the roads and its a long winded project then it wont matter much, my loom was gone for over 2months! kept on getting delayed because of stupid reasons, luckily i still had my car together until i recieved it so i could drive it, as soon as i sent the loom off i was close to makeing a start , so glad i didnt!! the actual engine swap takes no time at all ,

this^ , agree you dont need need anything else from the 4motion maybe DBW throttle pedal but i dont think i could justify buying a complete car for,especialy with the space a car takes up and the hassle of getting rid of it after..

that does sound extreme, removeing the windscreen is the hardest bit, welding in new metal is easy peasy in comparison, the best bit is it can all be painted useing a brush as its all hiden so it doesnt need to look good,

UM defeated my after cat lambdas without question that was only last year, im not going to lie but it does make me wonder why they suddenly decided its better to keep them? but my cars been running amazing hot or cold , short or long journey and i would find it hard to belive that my engine could run any better then it already is, only thing im not aware of yet is MPG so wether thats suffering as a result idk?.

cant belive your drive shaft shat itself!!! , should clean it up and put it on the garage wall ;)

lol dont do that ^ {drive with wheel bolts loose} there isnt much more you can do but mann up and kick harder, lie on the ground on ya back and slam that wheel edge with the sole of your foot, keep spinning the wheel, it will come unless some daft tit has used slightly bigger spigot rings and they have been pressed on by force of the wheel bolts doing up?

Lol

thanks for clearing that up guys

please do , use this pic to find pin 54 it should be a blue & white wire, if you snip the little cable tie on the ecu plug then the little clip just pulls off then you can see all wires at the back of the main plug, i just unwrapped the loom 2" or so and ran the wire seperate through the old throttle cable hole as im now dbw pedal, so theres no need to unwrapp the whole loom to do this , shouldnt take no more then 30mins to do,

cheers bud , yea on mine actualy stops at about 5k , i scanned it ages ago and a fault for the vss was there, after this there shouldnt be anymore faults :)

holy crap! hope everything works out and fixs up ok

been busiy getting this ready for some good weather driving :) finnaly pulled my finger out and got some motivation!! , hooked up the vss wire, for those interested its from pin 54 on the ecu plug its a blue/white wire and then this splices to one of the green fusebox plug wires designated W/1 , havent tested it out but im sure its fine, Went and checked my brake lines and the rear axle hose connections are just badly corroded so thought idd best sort it out now, basicly sucked all the fluid out the resivoir with a syringe and then the fittings on the bias valve wouldnt budge and were starting to round off even with the brake pipe spanner so i just cut the pipes flush and then used a socket which worked a treat on all 4 fittings!! this is the pipe that comes from the engine bay which was cut flush, just cleaned it up and re flared it, did the same with the other engine bay pipe and replaced the section that goes across the axle, just waiting on the spring brake clips to finish it off, this job is an absolute a55!!!!! hopefully tomo it should be done.

looking good op, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Wiring-Loom-Harness-Adhesive-Cloth-Fabric-Tesa-tape-/140550857403?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20b97be2bb

doesnt look as bad as i thought it would, http://www.tyrestretch.com/7.5_165_50_R16/7.5_165_50_R16_Yokohama_IG20_2.jpg.php

the reason i checked was because iv never gotten wheel alignment and my steering wheel had to be held at 11 oclock to go in a straight line, so i thought ahh lets have ago at getting it better as worse case is ill just get it booked in, i put my steering wheel in the straight position and got the biggest piece of 2x4i could find which was about 8ft, i put that up against the drivers side wheel {my wheels stick out past the arch's }and lined it up with the body and to be fair it looked prety much sqaure , i then took that to the passenger side wheel and clearly noticed this wheel to be toed in so much that its obviously the reason why my car wants to turn right! , i adjusted this to what i thought was how it should be , and double checked the measurement from here and it was only out by like 3mm , where as before it was out by roughly 1/2" on the threads!! havnet had a chance to drive it yet but im sure its for the better, but to answer your question of why its important to do this , it just helps to centralise the steering, just imagine if the previous owner of my car had removed the steering wheel on a few splines to keep the steering wheel straight and then i get that booked in for an alignment they wouldnt know and they would of adjusted the rod ends as per normal, so your steering rack would be adjusted more to turn one way then the other, for me it was just confirming that i had done the right thing, 1/2" on the threads is alot! im guessing my l/H track rod was replaced at somepoint

cheers all sorted ;) had to slide the trackrod boot off the steering rack in order to take the measurment but worth it for piece of mind :)