VW_OwneR_85

na no need for coloured bulbs, its a transparent paint so it still shines bright even though its coloured, yea give it ago but be warned paint is time consumeing! and your only get out what you put in and protect your lungs from paint vapour!! a diy dust mask wont help here ;)

cheers, i used this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-Tech-Lens-Tinting-Spray-Light-Tint-Red-/280942543598?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41697b02ee but the trick is to let it cure and re scuff with scotch pad and finish off with a 2k clear coat, will look 100% professional, otherwise the gloss wheres off and doesnt look so good after a few months, i actualy need to finish the ones on the corrado off as they have no clear, heres some others i have done with a clearcoat, smoked, i actualy didnt like them but my m8 did,

put the window down all the way, you might be able to see with a torch if you look from the inside through the glass, realy dought theres anything more you can do other then glue it. here you see the very bottom edge? that clips over a lip which stops it from pulling up if its split like this , then its free to pull up, like yours { and mine!!}

cheers bud, deffinalty worth removeing the windows for a better job, some people have used things like plastic strimmer wire to pack up the window seal so the paint flows under but you can only do that with the horizontal edge, my mk2 golf has had paint before and they just masked off the seals , the hard paint line is so obvious, also if you did remove the windows yourself before hand it would save you abit more money as the painters wouldnt have to mask them up with care,

sound so thats true then, ok seeing as the mk3 4cylinder subframes are the same as vr6 that means the subframe mounting points are the same {for vr6 and 4cylinder engines } just different engine mount bracket for the vr6, so does this mean that you can bolt a vr6 into the mk2 golf / 4cyl rado subframe? or are the subframe mountings completley different?

lol thats a realy terrible photo dude , i know what the problem is though, the rubbers more then likley broken, theres a peice which hangs down and folds over underneith to stop it from pulling up like that, its ethier not seated right or the rubber peice has split, them seals/trim peices are very expensive {£70 ish per side} and hard to get 2nd hand in good condition, if you push it back down and it looks ok i would just get some epoxy adhesive and put small spot of it under it {Not to much!!!} and just glue it for what its worth..

i swear the human race needs culling!!, go to some bodyshops and get a few quotes, if you dont plan on getting it sorted soon , dry out the keyed areas with a hair dryer and fill them with touch up pens {colour and clear} to stop corrosion...

yea i personaly dont think the swap is that big of a deal if under the right circumstances i.e you have a nice dry place to carry out the work with engine crane etc , if you dont have a decent sized shed with concrete floor and engine crane etc then yea i could see why people would say its easier to buy a vr, also whats the crack with having to swap the subframes over? i was told that the mk3 golf subframes are all the same for the 4cylinder engines and for the vr6, so if thats true then theres no reason why a vr wont bolt up to a 4cylinder rado subframe? or do people say to swap subframes because its easier to swap the lot over for wide track purposes? , personaly i would keep it 4stud for the variety of 4x100 wheels available, op if you have the work space,tools and time get R dun!!!

maybe get a mod to sticky it in the electrical section?, op have you heard the fuel pump at all ? how long has the car been a non runner? maybe the fuel tank needs draining and re filling with fresh fuel?

probably a long shot but worth a mention -have you checked that you have an ecu? , i wouldnt worry to much about the back of the fusebox plugs, they can only go in one way but you may want to print this out for future referance http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html that pic is the back of the fusebox, the white plugs are engine related , i guess seeing as the car was partly broken you dont realy know whats been played with,, good luck bud

i dont know much about 3 phase and single phase supplys but i do know my shed has a 3 phase power supply as my sparky m8 pointed out, but what iv used can easily be run off of single phase , my friend darren has a shed that iv helped him do his golf in and his power supply is single phase from an extension lead from the main house to his shed via another lead! , lol when the kettles on the lights dim! haha sounds crap but it runs the welder and compressor with no problems at all, also my other friend goerge has a shed thats like 50 mtrs away on the same setup as darren and theres no problems there with useing a welder , the one i learnt with is a siegen mini mig 130 amp i think? its not hard you clean the metal and on panels its literly point and shoot for 1.5 secs and rinse repeat ,on bigger stuff like angle iron and box section what i do is tac my work and then point and keep it going whilst doing a circular motion across both sections which brings both surfaces togther which also produces a nice weld pattern, , its just scary the first time because of the whole welding electric thing but you get used to it as your confidence builds and you soon learn how and what needs to be done, if your a handy man and like your tools its deffinatley worth getting ,has so many uses other then to fix a corrado :)

thank you for the kind words sir, its been an absolute treat owning this car , its made me do things i wouldnt of normaly done, i.e welding , painting etc , plenty more to come, only the start of it ;)

yea it just the same as a bike brake cable, so you can use the outer cable and cable ferrals {brass outer cable caps}also barrel adjusters so you can fine tune the cable tension,

reading all that makes it sound so technical, ebay- tandem bike brake cable + cable knarp , http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CABLE-STOP-END-THROTTLE-CLUTCH-CABLES-LAWNMOWER-/390510327008?pt=UK_Lawnmower_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aec3ab4e0 make sure you oil the new inner cable..

i guess it all depends on how its corroded , that stuff just seems like a metal filler for small imperfections/cracks for indsutrial use , i think you might have a hard time building it up and shapeing it, it would work though, http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_uke/hs.xsl/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm?iname=Loctite+3471&countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000ICJQ#a lol could just go down this road , although its not an invisble repair ,http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/49202-an-inspired-rust-repair/ ,

iv got something like this in my shed, got like 6 of em, just wire them intogether and up to a plug, so you dont have to get a sparky in to wire them in ,http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6ft-Fluorescent-Strip-Light-Batten-Fitting-Requires-1-x-T8-70w-Tube-/170864761679?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item27c8555b4f

doesnt sound good, but yea your right aslong as you keep the work to with in the seal area you dont need a bodyshop to paint anything as its all hidden, best thing to do would be to cut out the screen and clean up the affected area , dry it all out and go from there,even if you cant find anybody to weld a peice in, worst case scenario is neatley cut the rott out with a dremel and cutting disc, so its all gone and then fill it with fibre glass filler and then shape it with a sanding block with 80grit paper so it retains original shape, paint and re install screen, you would have stopped the rust and fixed a leak and nobody would be none the wiser , p.s if you do want to remove the screen take measuremnets of its position also height before you cut it out, so when you come to fit it back in you know exaclty where it sits, also any bare metal thats been cleaned up use epoxy primer,

ah gave the old dawg a clean and polish this past few days, its been sitting at the back of my shed gathering all sorts of dust so i thought i best sort it out now before it gets to much, all wrapped up untill next year :)

yea i know what you mean about the seals especialy if you dont have another corrado to go by, the thing to remember is the soft velvety material goes against the window, fit the big floppy rubber one first,

awesome, i love your motivation with working outside, i realy wouldnt have any motivation to do this stuff outdoors, keep it up!!

lmao ! i now have an image in my head of a 6 inch black guy,

try living in the channel islands then ;) absolute nightmare for things like that,i would happily go out on a road trip for bits like that, personaly idd find another bonnet the same colour thats in good nick that doesnt need spraying and hope it matchs , as these carbon bonnets are almost £700 now, they were £500 at one point ,even if you got to go on a road trip it will be worth it, its not like your be needing a bonnet every other week,

i guess it depends on the style as there are some shockingly horrid ones out there but generaly im not one for after market body bits like that, all personal preferance though.. if i was going to get side skirts it would be these , oem as! Naaaaaart! http://www.nicedeals.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=11780 btw thats a joke, i wouldnt go near em ;)

cant comment on the fitment with carbon fibre bonnets but im sure someone on this forum has one, so maybe ask there opinion on that before makeing any decisions, but i was in the same boat as you with needing the bonnet resprayed, a carbon bonnet on my car wouldnt of looked bad as its black , personaly dont think a carbon bonnet would look bad on your car either!, but i decided to spray mine instead, even if you buy a carbon bonnet you can still spray it to match the car later down the road anyway,

^ yea as above , idd say open the nipple and fluid will come out as the rod goes in ,