VW_OwneR_85

i watch it , havent seen the episodes where he says dollars though, what gets me is the buyers , they seem like actors allways asking the right qustions

luv it!! i was considering doing it to my old ABV but thats still a good motor so i didnt..

turn it into a coffee table!! have you not seen the vr6 coffee table made by the company that does them? it was awesome!!

cheers bud, that makes sense,

had the same problem when i fitted mk4 calipers, turns out it just needed useing to bed the pads in, so they wear flat to the disc, dont know if you have ever played with mtb disc brakes at all? but if the front edge of the pad hits before the back then the brake feels spongey as sh1t3! when both pads push square and equal to the disc its wooden im going to assume this applys to cars too..

the cable i got from ebay has worked perfectly when doing the 24v conversion, you can read the coolant temp also lists the fault codes but you have to write some of the codes down and then google the code to reveal what the code means , as alot of them are hidden , see here 3 faults and 2 of them are hidden {shareware version to decode all DTC'S , but just google the coded number,

i belive these are what you need, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VCDS-lite-VAG-AUDI-VW-SEAT-SKODA-Diagnostics-Interface-/200912560389?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ec7526105#ht_1526wt_1018 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-VW-AUDI-SEAT-2-2-OBD2-ADAPTOR-CABLE-LEAD-2X2-/380199944759?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5885aec237#ht_2099wt_1255

well doesnt sound to bad then, check for leaks around the water pump too, also the more you use fresh water the more corrosion the fresh water will do to metal parts, wont do the heater matrix any good, try useing a sheet of card board and slide that under the engine bay to help identify leaks dripping, maybe even jack the front up and have a look from under at the front,

wow had no idea them parts were that expensive on the 3.2 ,

no you shouldnt expect the worse, is there mayo on the dipstick? is the engine over heating? mayo on the oil cap is common with cars that dont see long journeys {google it, this actualy has a specific name }, its basicly moisture and oil mixed together, with cars that run on longer journeys this moisture gets burnt off with the engine heat , if your cars over heating and theres mayo on the dipstick then maybe suspect the worse but then again that could be oil cooler failure

looks nice and clean with low miles with clocks to prove so that is a bonus above the cheaper £300 ones on ebay breakers, get immo defeat on ecu which makes this conversion easier as you wont need the mk4 clocks and key chip/transponder, your also need to buy the other section wireing harness for this motor,

depends on how far you take the conversion, i kept mine as simple as possible and im going to assume your want that aswell, so get a complete engine with the alternator + inlet manifold etc etc, -new none aircon belt , unless you have air con and want to keep that, -ecu the same code as your engine- then send that off for immo defeat and sai removal, - get both sections of wireing harness again specific to your engine code, - throttle pedal ,{not sure if thats code specific or not? but might aswell get it the same as engine, -hybrid custom down pipe, wether you make it up yourself or buy it , its up to you. check my thread for how its done diy. -new flywheel and clutch plate bolts and from your current engine you have everything else you need, wireing loom for spliceing ,pas pump,engine mountings ,flywheel and clutch, thermostat housing and crack pipe, its realy a fairly easy swap tbh , once you get your head around the wireing as otherwise its just a straight engine swap, take a look at this page its the same for the 24v as it is for the 1.8t, http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ as it gives you an idea of what needs to be done,

correct, yep only two types , the seating depends on what wheels you have , radius are normaly for steel wheels and tapperd normaly for alloy's

get some 15mm hub centric spacers they normaly come with the longer bolts just select tapper or radius seat bolts,

have someone turn left to right in nuetral with the motor running and check out the topmounts at the same time, could be topmount bearings

should compare them side by side in real life and not by a photo vs real life , i bet your cars paint does look great ,

removing the front end is realy easy dude, its self explanatory so dont worry even though it seems duanting its not once you get stuck in, the only thing which is kinda hard is removing the bumper but thats just 4 bolts, if your going to remove the front end idd recomend you replace the oil cooler seals aswell as they are pence and maybe even the oil filter+ new o-ring, obviously its up to you if you want to replace the plastic thermostat houseing +crack pipe but for the cost and peice of mind it makes sense to do it all while the front end is off, jack up front, remove front bumper, remove grill ,remove headlights, disconnect bonnet release from slam panel, unbolt slam panel ,

nice project dude, keep it up

yes you can change the oil cooler seals with the front intact, its a little tricky on your back but can be done , removeing the front end doesnt take long though so it might be worth removeing the front end and doing the oil cooler seals and the thermostat houseing and crack pipe at the same time

try changeing the blue temp sender {for ecu} in the thermostat houseing , there not that expensive and you can quickly change it in under 5mins without having to drain out the coolant, just undo the expansion cap to release pressure and then skrew it back down, unclip the wireing plug from the sender and then pull the clip out that holds it in place , have your new sender with o-ring ready and swap them over as fast as you can without looseing to much coolant, just make sure the engines cold and not hot... taken from the vr6 cooling guide Blue, 2-pin plug. VAG part number 025 906 041 A (about £8, plus O-ring N 903 168 02) ECU (always there)

cant say theres many left over here now, when was it imported from gsy?

you can do it to a very good standard if you give the time it requires + the extra time to correct skool boy errors, if your serious about wanting to do it , learn as much as you can before hand, on ebay theres cheap carpaint how to dvd's £5.00 ,buy them as the advice given on them can save you time which = money, also youtube has videos for car body repair take a looksy, good luck with it , end of the day you can just fix up the mechanical side and use it as a care free runner and enjoy it for that

the two pipes that come from the under side are coloured black and blue, the black is the flow and blue is return, im prety sure its correct the way you have it, prety sure theres arrows indicating flow and return on the fuel rail connections, doube check with them...

no idea on the length but just try a small adjustable spanner if you have one and get the spanner as tight as poss on the flats , owen these seem to be smaller then the caliper & abs unit bleed nipple threads, seems odd that they changed them here though..

just goes to show how much work can go into one of these cars...