VW_OwneR_85

guys the vr6 l/h track rod dimension {a} 406.0 _+ 1MM what does that plus minus symbol mean? give or take 1mm? cheers..

^ cheers bud, i went to change mine last year when i was doing my engine conversion and yea same thing for me, rust everywhere! + bolts were rounded off, i should of just manned up and welded something to them and did it with no engine/gearbox, anyway allways nice to have the bolts ready :)

i wouldnt rule the battery out completley, if you have another battery in a car that you can try then do it, i recently fully charged my friends battery which hadnt been used for over a year , all the lights were on showing it was good to go , how ever it couldnt turn the starter over, put my battery in to test it and fired straight away,

agreed! does look like a gooden :)

can you tell me what size are the arb clamp bolts are? {if its easy to see the sizes on the receipt if not no worrys } thanks.. edit blady hell! just seen them! realy need to open my eyes!!! admin please remove this post lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revolution-RFX-Staggered-Deep-Dish-Alloy-Rims-Wheels-15-not-Schmidt-BBS-Rota-/181089495538?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item2a29c669f2 quite like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OS4-Schmidt-Ronal-Turbo-Style-15-Alloy-Wheels-Brand-New-Silver-/251201041885?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item3a7cbfb5dd

yea wheels is a very hard choice for me!, i would second the lenso bsx or dare RS for that kinda cheap price range in 16" staggerd fitment,

sounds like you know what you want with your corrado so your deffo doing the right thing, may seem daunting removeing the engine and all that but its fairly straight forward, just get your garge sorted out so its a nice place to be with lighting and a kettle!! and your love it!! set yourself goals and do it in sections so you dont get overwhelmed and good luck!

i know you plan on swaping some stuff over to a good shell , good plan! but i would consider trying to keep this on the roads with cheap bits for the simple fact that it can be used and enjoyed as a care free daily, you will never have the same care free feeling driveing around in something which cant get much worse if you know what i mean and that cant get much better then a vr6 corrado :) , maybe see your new shell as a long term project? dunno but its something to consider maybe,

this is so me!! except your car sounds worse then what mine was, gave me a chance to get into body and paint with out feeling guilty of ruining a perfectly good car so its all good! i think by the sounds of it , its prety safe to say a shell swap is the only way out of this, otherwise it will allways haunt you , deffo get some pics tho!hopefully you can get a decent rolling chassis fairly cheap, good luck

made a start on fitting mk3 golf leather front seats , found the passenger side sound proofing under the carpet to be completley soaked!!! wasnt blady happy!! , but got the pssenger side seat fitted and done!, they do sit alittle higher!

that car was my wall paper ;) looks so blady good!! apart from them bonnet vents idd say its visual perfection!

just came across this {not literaly eeeww errr!} , splits/cracks and scuffs on leather seats are not actualy in the leather in most cases but are in the paint used on the leather, makes sense, only real way to fix it is by re painting it,

make sure connections are tight, how olds your battery? , i replaced mine last year as it was cranking very very slowly to the point of " oh shh i hope this starts!!" and i had no idea how old it was, fitted a new battery and it now sounds like the starter motor is on steroids!! and starts almost instantly! massive difference in the way the car starts up,

theres only 2 rubber peices, one is the big long one which you see straight away {just pulls out } the other rubber sits directly at the top of the screen and doesnt go down the sides and sits in the top middle {which butts up against the two plastic side peices}, the other two are plastic trim peices that are on the sides, these are the two pieces that could potentialy break upon removal, not sure on there availability but a year and half ago they were still available new, think maybe its about time we had a sticky for this windscreen malarky with part numbers up of the four seperate pieces, right ETKA, Main outer seal , "cover section" 535 845 127 A Top middle center rubber , "Boarder strip" 535 853 307 A {remark - upper } driverside plastic side piece, "Boarder strip" 535 853 306 {remark - Right } passenger side plastic side peice "Boarder strip" 535 853 305 {remark - left }

with the outside, sand everything out back to bare metal with 40 -80 grit then assess it, take pics what ever, then degrease the metal with pre wipe degreaser / panel wipe, then mix up this stuff to the correct ratio in a paint mixing cup and brush it on over the bare metal http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Max-Meyer-2k-Epoxy-Primer-Kit-Ltr-inc-Ltr-Activator-/111016947071?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19d9202d7f it should seal out the moisture so you can just leave it like that until your ready and have made up your mind on what to do next and its a realy good base to work off , its a high qaulity bodyshop standard product designed for bare metal application.

make sure its done right and the paint in the glass channel doesnt get damaged from them cutting it out. this is where your windscreen rust will eventualy come from, £980 to have a corrado windscreen replaced is daylight robbery in my eyes, if everything goes to plan it shouldnt take no more then 4hours from start to finish , corrado windscreen cost me £100 localy no discount or anything, so im going to assume they charge £200 per hour?!!!!

doesnt look great does it, i think everything needs to be stripped back to metal and then you can get a better look at how solid it is or isnt, all the gunk in the boot looks worrying , whats it hideing?, if it was me i would strip it all back starting with the boot and then assess the damage and go from there, it does look prety scary and its heading for the crusher but that can all change fairly quickly once everythings back to metal , might be a good idea to get them back end seams cleaned out and then welded and smoothed in if you were getting the work done...

cream and black looks amazing!

get new on ebay dude, do your current wheels use taper or radius seat bolts? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCKING-WHEEL-BOLTS-NUTS-VW-BEETLE-BORA-GOLF-MK4-MK5-MK6-PASSAT-SHARAN-T4-5-STUD-/170748112235?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item27c1616d6b

iv just used turtle wax's leather cleaner and conditioner, seems to soften up the leather a treat, anybody have any experiance with sorting out the cracks?

what exhaust you got? i got miltek system , makes my 2.8 sound abslutley beautiful, i wouldnt mind a 3.2 for the extra horse's/cows though ;) what other stuff needs doing ecu wise? , all iv got to do on mine is vss signal and then all faults will be none existant , even though it cant rev past 5.5 k revs its still sounds and drives amazing, looking good btw :)

when was the last time the ht leads were replaced? , they can still go bad inside even if the ruber looks good, you can get a cheap set for £35 on ebay + £13 for the tool , i would say for the amount of messing around , its worth buying just to tick off the list of possible problems,

guys do you think its possible to replace the ARB bushs with the subframe still up? , or does it need to be dropped a little?

pics of damage would be a real help, realy depends on how far you want to go with the car, a respray changes everything! , if it was me i would just get it refinished and have the paint blended into existing paint and go from there, fit your interior as that can allways be removed , i know its going to bug you but fact is it would be no different to owning a mint example and whos to say this mint example doesnt have bodywork horrors hidden beneath, aslong as the body shop do a good job with there filler work nobody will ever know! now with the rubbing maybe the rear axle brackets have come out of alignment? not sure how much movement is on the bolt holes? but maybe enough to cause rubbing? , idd say stick with it but dont get a full spray job unless you can get it done m8s rates..