perksy

dont suppose you still have the complete wiring loom do you is that the whole car?

have you got much of the wiring looms left for the whole car?

a up tom how much of the wiring for the car do you have left? if any

mine is same as kevs and i didnt have any problems what does the top tensioner look like and pics of the wheels below left vr right 24v size difference , its hard to see but the vr 1 is under it sorry for poor pic

Swift kid did you change the power steering pulley wheels over so the vr power steering pump has the 24v wheel on?

good point i have a spare 2.8 24v sump if you want haha but you sig says standard and keeping it that way so guessing this isnt really gunna be your thing

can i ask why your changing your sump is it leaking? if it was me i wouldnt touch the sump unless i had to on my vr engine {RIP} mine was leaking so had to change it on taking the sump bolts out three of them came out with the treads attached which was a right joke so then had to mess around getting them helicoiled which was a right ball ache so as the saying goes if aint broke dont fix it, is what i would say to you but if you have to change it that sump doesnt look to bad and i woulnt image they would use super thin metal as the original ones arent that thick a material in the first place cant remember which type of gasket but im sure when you go to europarts or where ever they will know, but again if it was me i would use the sump gasket paste from vw that the 1.8t 2.8 24v and r32 use as it seals so much better and you dont have to but hardly any torque on the bolts which helps not to strip the threads if you ever have to take it of in the future and yeah id change the sump bolts if they look in bad condition, there really not that expensive even from vw, but if they look ok then i probs wouldnt bother as its not a bolt under alot of torque so dont really need to be changed, i guess it depends on how much you want to spend

not good sean hope you get it sorted quickly well guess this answers my ? of how you find the 24v over the vr6 for day to day driving, there the same temperamental haha i guess if we didnt wanna tinker with our cars we would of just bought something modern and leave it standard

a up sean loving your car the chs suit it down to the ground great choice of wheel makes me wanna pull my finger out and get mine done how do you find the 24v engine over the vr6?

a up lee sorry i didnt get back yesterday didnt get near a computer to reply to you as ron said hes pmd me saying he is going to take them so sorry mate but if for any reason ron decides not to take um i'll give you first refusals on them so yeah sold subject to payment thanks for looking

a up mate there 8mm and fit fine, tight but fine selling as i no longer need them due to new plans yeah they are for a coilpack

magnecore ht leads as title done around 200 miles like brand new will even throw the sticker in will post at buyers cost cheers John List Date: 5/10/2014 Location: Sheffield, United Kingdom For more info, click here to view the original listing: magnecore ht leads -------------------------------------- This item is no longer available. -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: magnecore ht leads Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

^^^ iknow how annoying and i bet the mods are finding it so annoying having to sort it for people, my ht leads have been in panjo thing for 2 weeks cant be bothered to hassle the mods to move it. i was going to start and sell my vr stuff (but think ill just hold onto it haha just in case) ive been holding on to but dont wanna do a thread for every part as there would be loads of them and then if you put them all in one thread the pics wont go next to the description and price and it could get a little confusing and annoying this must be a head bake if your breaking a car, or is that thread as normal? to make it clear im not moaning about panjo i think its really easy to use as fast as before and if you have one item to sell its fine and really easy and the adds look good, except some peoples threads dont go on the forum for sale threads and then if you have multiple items to sell it would be a right farce tbh

T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin black connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming so G1 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3 4 - 5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector) 6 - 7 - 8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6 9 - 10 - T6 brown/1 11 - 12 - T10 orange/9 G2 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - T6 brown/4 10 - 11 - 12 - Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6 earth - T14a/9 well hope this helps people help me haha any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated cheers John

cheers kip that would great if you could share how you wired up yours so here is where im at wiring wise, engine is a 2.8 24v aue (i know not an r32 im a pussy but the 2.8 was a good price i think for everything i got plus i didnt wanna blow a r32 up trying to get it in haha) O should add this engine was still in the car running when i picked it up and took it out myself to make sure i had everything i wanted /needed haha well i think i did so ecu sent to stealth and de immobilised (cheers guys amazingly fast service sent it wednesday had it back first thing monday morning)did have the clocks keys and rings so didnt really need to do this but just decided it was the better option and one thing less to try and and work around or think could be the problem ive used the vr starter motor wiring from to F in the fuse/relay panel so havent touched this one bit. ^^^ i was wondering weather i needed to connect the 24v to this but as im not using the 24v fuse board or relay panel ive just left this loose in the bay engine does turn over but not surprised by this as thats just a case of putting power to the starter motor so now for the fun part haha so to make it easy for people to change and edit ive used the great write up that rubjonny did on clubgti and ill just keep the stuff how i wired mine up so to make easy for people to change and edit after the pin number ive left that box as rubjonny has written as then i'll leave a gap for people to put in where they have put there wires and hopefully this should really help people get an idea of how other people have wired there cars up o and before people say ive copied this and it still doesnt work well this isn't a fool proof guide to fit an engine its just so maybe people can get an idea of where they might have gone wrong and to share info and things they have learnt if they choose, o and if people make changes could they please use a different colour to make it easy to see where they have changed please. original thread - http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196-OEM-MK4-management-wiring-gt-Mk1-2-3-harness-install-FAQ T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - - Fuel pump relay earth trigger (3 bin Use original wires for reverse switch) 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - - - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port - - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. T2: (Only on looms with an ECU relay)i dont think i have this but i do have a random relay which im not sure what it is so could it be this ? pic below 1 blk/pur ecu relay pin 87 G1/10 Coilpack & ECU power feed

argh good idea at least then you dont need to mess around mounting the other one or have it hanging loose some where i like it sean cheers :thumb right:

cheers for that swift kid that link was very useful good read and yeah id be interested to read how you plan to do yours seems like everyone do theres slightly different or as the thais say same same but different haha has to be said this is a great thread cheers for the links again guys

cheers Sean take it there not needed after the conversion then

cheers for that link lad

cheers mate i wonder how different the r32 is to 24v i have found some wiring diagrams on the net for the 2.8 and the r32 maybe i'll compare dont suppose you know which wires you are gunna put into G1 in fact more to the point The red and yellow that goes in think its z1 or summit what are you gunna do about that? would you mind if i had a little look over how you plan to wire it up? understand if you dont o and while on the wiring questions does any one know where a brown plug in the wiring in the loom to the back think of the top of my head the colours are yellow and grey and white i just wrote on it ecu loom but i havnt got my loom to hand to trace where they go car is a vr6? sorrry a little of subject just wondered if that has anything to do with the fuel pump o found this

cheers mate hopefully have some updates soon just need the rain to go away and the lighter nights to role in cheers guys :thumbleft: cheers Rog some times a little to much dedication to the cause, all i wanna do is drive it hard haha is that good luck because i'll need it :thumbleft: sweet haha well the pedal box has a 6.25 to 1 ratio on it the 2 brake master cylinders are 0.625 x2 (was gunna go a size up for the front brakes but a friend who has run one said dont bother unless you want a massive leg haha) and the clutch is 0.7 i think tbh it was over two years since i got them was told that i might need to go bigger on the clutch but for now we will see yeah got a wilwood flexi dash mounted adjuster not decided where to mount it yet dont want it sticking out like a piece of **** all the pots will be on braided hoses and hidden in the dash thats my second biggest hate seeing nice bays then brake fluid pots sat in the the bay, i mean you go to all that trouble to tidy the bay then stick pots in the rain tray, damn, right behind polished intercoolers hanging out of the front bumper (at least paint it black) haha at the end of the day if it doesnt work better than the vr i'll just source a bigger servo and refit that as i dont want sh!t brakes Liam lad (erny) i know i had a little spare time figured i'd carry on where i left of, more to motivate myself than anything, i need the moral support haha yeah my old man has finally moved and the car has been moved so his sale could complete haha i mean how ungrateful moving when i stored my car in his garage for free some people a haha done any on your mk2 blaster or is it in the same sorry state as mine at the min? little update washer bottle moved to the boot so this was one was pretty straight forward just connected the washer bottle to the the pipe that is used for the rear washer connected the front to the front washer jet pipe job done for anyone that cares its not a corrado washer bottle its a mk1 one nice and small just bent a bit of ali to make a bracket and screwed it in extened the wiring job done well i hope so not tested it and the pump is a mk1 one so who knows that might have give up the ghost haha o well cross that bridge if i get there.

i have to agree with everyone above, if it was me i would see where i stand and have some one for theft and damage to the car i mean them scratches weren't there the other day haaha but really i would have a good look over it and go from there i mean this really does take the **** who gave them the right to take a car that they had no proof belonged to the lady in question and why are they picking on a 90 year old lady pricks

so for my fav part of the car wilwood pedal box well as most people know the vr brakes feel like **** so decided that id get rid of the ABS servo everything and fit a wilwood pedal box for some reason i just love how they look there just sick as sorry getting over excited hahaha well ill let the pics do the talking so one thing i wanted to do with my car was to make sure what ever i did it made things as original as posssible (i know i know haha wilwood pedal box plus weld every hole in the bay and get rid of the ABS haha) but really as i had no idea where to start with this part i just thought right i wanna mount it on the original pedal box and go from there, it had to mount to the original mounting points as well. so all i did was cut the vr6 pedal box of everything i wasnt going to use and then just make it as big as posible. then make if fit and hold up the pedals to see where they had to be (i mean they had to go either side of the steering colum) and go from there not to sound like a dick but got it pretty good first time i used the accelerator pedal to judge how far forward the pedals needed to be then used them to set the DBW ( for the next stage haha) well im not gunna bore you so thats it hope you like or hate haha

cheeers mate think my ht lead post has done the same haha and newbie been here since 2007 haha love it

magnecor 8.5 red HT leads PRICE DROP as per title probably done a 100 miles max looks good works great what more to say its a set of ht leads haha would prefer pick up but would post at buyers cost cheers for looking john List Date: 4/7/2014 Location: Sheffield, United Kingdom For more info, click here to view the original listing: magnecor 8.5 red HT leads PRICE DROP -------------------------------------- This item is no longer available. -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: magnecor 8.5 red HT leads PRICE DROP Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!