Hofmiester

It depends on how much risk of violence you can take really. When I was 25.....I would have got a group of pals together and kicked his teeth down his neck, I had nothing to lose other than getting a beating in return and knowing some of my pals back then, that was unlikely to happen... but 10 years later and 2 kids, I can't take risks like that. If you think you can handle him then you only get one shot at putting him in his place so you need to make sure he is properly scared. Otherwise let the police/council deal with him, which is what I would do.

Thanks guys, the pics don't quite do it justice as it was raining. Need a nice day so I can wax her up for pics

Had an hour to spare tonight so I decided to have a bit of a play around based on the info you guys gave me. Crudely measured the camber and it was massively out. With a spirit level the driver side was -7mm inwards at the top. The passenger one (the one sticking out) was slightly sticking out at the top by a couple of mm......so overall about 10mm difference. I undid the strut bolts and shifted the strut about. Now got them both at -7mm at the top and now they both look the same. Big relief as the fear at the back of my mind was that maybe the car was bent in some way, usual Corrado paranoia ;) I've got it booked in for alignment on Friday morning but at least I know there is nothing wrong. Thanks chaps!

Cool, also will take VT gearbox mount. I've pm'ed you. Thanks

And I'll take the VT gearbox mount please!

Glove box strip for me too please! Either new or second hand

Good work James.....I still havent fitted that heated seat loom you made for me! reminds me that I need to crack on with that :)

Good call but I already checked, rotated rear to front and it was the same plus stamp says ET35. I also checked the spacers and they are fine. I talked to Revolution motorsport this afternoon and then can do a full set up on a Hunter machine for £99+vat and they said that on the MK2 golf the subframe can be moved around, he said it's likely the camber is out a bit and maybe the subframe needs a budge by a few mm He did not seem surprised at all that one wheel pokes out, he said old cars often have "variations" like this.

Anyone know a good suspension set up place in the North East.....I can't be arsed to set this up myself :)

5 mins on google and it looks that others have had a similar issue with Corrados and MK2s, seems to be a "feature" although some of these guys have over 1cm....mine is only about 5mm http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=34729 http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=15676 http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?2506818-VR6-Swap...-Right-wheel-sticks-out Last thread suggests that the subframe mounts have some lateral adjustment in them and can be nudged Left/Right?

Ok just been out in the car park in the rain with a ruler. Measured the wing as best I can and I'm positive they are the same, they look the same visually and also the flare to the arch is the same....so I can rule that out. There are some odd looking things about the wheel angles. With the steering wheel dead centre, the drivers side wheel looks straight and is leaning in a bit at the top. The passenger one is poking out a bit more at the front edge by the bumper (toe?) and doesn't look straight like the drivers side. It also seems to be standing up straight rather than leaning in a bit at the top. Looks like I need to go get my suspension geometry checked :( Wheels looks nice though!

Thanks for the tips folks, I'll have a go at this tonight. I was totally stumped to begin with as the old wheels looked spot on, its only as these are right on the edge that I noticed it. Do which way does moving the strut effect the camber? Thanks

All good replies chaps, thanks. So after some more investigation, I've found a new problem that is related. I fitted all the wheels and drove the car today to see where it rubs. After fitting the other front one, I realised that one sits into the arch about 5mm more at the top! At first I thought "****, I've fitted an early wing!" but after looking closely, I am sure they are the same both sides, so no worries there. I can only assume that my camber is soooooo far out that the wheels sit at differnt angles? If I could get this wheel sitting like the other, then I'll be fine as I dont get any rubbing so far. It just pokes out a few mm more than I'm happy with. Can I adjust the camber myslef to test? I seem to remember you just undo the top bolts to the body and push the strut in/out depending on what you want?

I'm not into fancy wheels that much, if they don't fit then i'll likely sell them and stick with my Monty IIs They would have fit fine if it wasn't for the 288s :(

Hi guys, I bought a set of RH cups in a 16" ET35, I thought they should fit no problem and so went ahead getting them refurbished before trying in the car. Turned out that they won't clear my 288mm brakes without a spacer. I went for an 8mm spacer which is about as close as I feel happy with to the calliper So with the spacer I have enough room...but now I am concerned I have too much poke and the tyre will foul the arch. I don't really want to mess about rolling arches etc Any ideas guys?

The other factor to consider as well as the scale of the universe, is the insane amount of time it has been in existence and is likely to exist. By that I mean that right now, we could be the only life in the universe but that is not to say it hasn't existed before us or after. Also for a civilisation to be at the same stage of development or more advanced in order to comunicate, is also unlikley. For example there may be life at any stage of development, microbes to so advanced that we are not of interest to them.

I've got a FI VR6 and even with the charger, I'm not getting any really alarming oil temps. I'm using top spec Esther based oil so that might help a bit. I have bought an oil cooler but I'm in not rush to fit, will wait until something goes wrong in that part of the engine bay and then sort it out. BTW I live in the North East so ambient temp never really gets hotter than 25C

Tardis glue remover, it's what body shops use. Did the glue from my tinted windows and from the foam under the bonnet.

Its funny, I bought my car to drive but in the year I've had it....it has spent most of its time in bits or part way through the fixing of some issue. I'm really hoping that next year, i will actually be able to get out there and drive it!

I look forward to seeing it mate! We need to try and get on the beers one night when there's a show :D

Cheers, that's what Walter said too. It will probably take me a week to get all the bits and pieces back together as all the trim is off, badges etc Jesus...I can't believe we've ended up painting most of the car

Sneaky peek at my car fresh back from the body shop. The paint hasn't been polished or waxed yet but looks great, sooo deep! He ended up painting a lot more of the car than planned. Basically anyone who has seen my car may have noticed how pink it was. Much more of a pink than Blackberry. Looks like it had already had a respray in the past but in a non VW colour. So I've ended up with a full front, sides and rear paint job.....mega cost for just a small blob of rust at the bottom of an arch! Need to get all the trim back together and then I'll get some proper pics up :D

I'm starting to think you really need to be some pics up to get any further advice.....we need to be able to see what the score is

Fine with me...... ChrisL get her taxed ;)

Have you ever thought of also looking into doing Vortech rebuilds? I ask as there are quite a few of us running charged VR6 and also on VR6 OC. The only place (as far as I know) doing Vortech is http://superchargerrebuilds.com/ who sell the kit parts for the rebuilds pretty cheaply but the postage is the killer as they are in the USA. Would love to see a UK company start to offer this service.