Hofmiester

Works for me thanks Jim.

Loverly finish there mate, looks like you took your time and got a good result!

Well lads, the drivers side one will be going back up for sale soon as I don't need that one.

It can't be as hard as the KW V1 kit, it is so hard that I am also getting really really tired of it :( Hey Lewvw, how much do you want for the B12 kit? plus does it come with any extra mounting bits.

Hey Tom, I am after a rear and so if you found a set and wanted to split it, let me know.

Hey Russ, I would have really liked these but I had already bought a set of RH cups that were in pretty bad nick (someone had tried to remove the powder coat with Nitromors) and so I thought they might be hard to refurb and fancied these as an alternative. Having seen the refurb company today, they were unphased by the state of the RH cups, basically they acid dip them and shot blast, so I'm going to go with the original plan. These wheels are a steal though, especially with the quality tyres so I'm sure someone will buy them

£5 postage with Hermes, I was posted one recently and Hermes was slow but dirt cheap

Result! looks like I wont be needing to have my passenger wing welded at the bottom after all. I've been looking for a totally mint, rust free wing for 4 months and then won a pair on ebay :) Drivers one has some surface rust on the back (but is fine) passenger one is totally mint!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]75549[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75550[/ATTACH] She's booked in at the body shop on Sep 23rd. Also got my RH cups being refurbed as I type :dance:

I do a fair bit myself but the complicated stuff I get done by Michael Boak at MB motorsport, I had a chat with him this morning as he was checking over the SC install for me be sure everything is running right. He seemed confident that it's not a complicated job so I'll probably get him on the case. My gearbox is OK but starting to show a bit of wear to the syncros as 1-2 can be a little crunchy when cold. It's the next job on the never ending list after body work this month :) Also, any ideas if the MK3 Golf 16V one Vaughan has offered me is the right one?

Instead of venting the gasses via the PCV and back into the intake, you just bin the PCV system and bock off the hole in the intake pipe. Then run a hose to an oil catch can and vent the rest of the fumes to the atmostphere. Not the best for the environment but easy system to maintain and prevents oil "blow by" from fauling your intake and throttle body. In my case I went this route as I didn't want oil blowing into my Charger. There is a good thread here on the Lotus forum that explains it well http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/catch-can-vs-open-air-vent-100572/

Thanks for your help Kev

Sound good! PM sent

Thinking now I have the SC installed, it would be nice to keep the car in the powerband more often and so considering changing the final drive. What is involved in this conversion and also any ideas on where the bits can be sourced from? Thanks Ron

Text sent mate

Hi Russ, 4 or 5 stud? If they are 5 stud then I'm interested

I suspect probably not as my wife is hoping I'll look after the kids that weekend but lets see, I would love to make it down

HulkHogan has a Storm for sale in the classifieds. He lives near me and I've seen it about, although not had a good nosey. Looks tidy at £4k Ron

Fuzzer sorted me out in the end, Cheers Chris!

Do you even need it? Mine just has a catch can, £28 off ebay

Hey mate, by cutting the rear poly bush down, is that essentially lowering the engine position in the bay? I ask as I want to make a little more clearance between the charger I've just installed and the bonnet. Would this do the job? Cheers Ron

My car had a partial engine rebuild in at 127k (now on 141k) bottom end is all good and the car doesn't use any oil. Head was replaced for a new one (badly pitted) and the chains and guides were done at the same time at Stealth. So engine should be all good, certainly runs very well.

By the way, does your charger almost touch the bonnet? It is very close on mine!

I always thought the correct tension was 45 degree of twist? Don't want to crank it too much as bugger the bearings. Seems to be running really well though, and currently will just twist to 90 degs at a push. Going to T the boost gauge and DV off the throttle body as I binned the carbon canister.

So having looked over everything I thought that 90 degree twist on the belt was more than it should be, and in cranked it up ;) Wow, that made a difference, the car is savagely fast, especially at this level

Well I used to be an electrician/electronics engineering apprentice. Working in a busy factory, and this is the way I was taught. It looks tidy, works fine!