ryanmac

Hi all I have the front wings off the C as I was undersealing the inner wings and doing a slight repair. I have noticed though that the tyres have had some contact with the lip around the wheel arch. I want to roll the arches while the wings are off the car. Has anyone done it and how did you go about it. Cheers Ryan

Hi all Since re arranging some things in the engine bay and fitting a big air filter with surround the area I want the cooling hose to come through has the carbon filter in the way. I have removed it to try and fit it somewhere else but I am just wondering if I can bin it altogether....Anyone any ideas... Ryan

Hi all Since I have the front end removed from my car I have decided to remove the subframe to powdercoat it and fit some vibratechnics mounts. Now I was wondering if the 2l 8v subframe is the same? Reason being I have a spare one sitting all welded up nice and solid thats in better condition than the one fitted so i was going to powdercoat it and fit that with the new mounts into my vr6 but will it fit.... Ryan

Hi all, I currently run 312mm brakes on the front with 17" alloys. I plan on keeping the brakes on the front but since I am stripping the rear beam off to replace it I was wondering what the biggest set of rear brakes are that I can fit to my VR. With that what is the smallest set of wheels that I could run. I believe it is 16"? Is this correct...... Ryan

Hi all Although I have the eaton charger I have been looking into turbos as well. I already have the exhaust manifold as I bought that when I first thought of charging the vr6 but then I went for the eaton as I wanted instant power instead of waiting for the turbo to wind up. I have been rethinking this as I have looked a bit more at turbos but still am a bit puzzled with them... I don't want to go out and spend near enough £1000 on one so have been looking at various cars that are already charged and seeing if I could use the turbo off that. The cars I have been looking at are 200sx and imprezas. From what I gather I want a turbo with a roller bearing, something garrett for reliability and something not to big that spins up about 1500rpm...I have looked at gt28's and 35's but can anyone recommend one from another car that I can use or has anyone any experience from using a turbo from another car... The base engine will be a fully lightened and balanced bottom end, some headwork, ARP bolts all over, Aquamist water injection, renault intercooler, bosch 440cc injectors, 264 cams, lightened and balanced flywheel and a gearbox with a 3.9FD. Cheers Ryan

Right so my day dreaming is over and I have for sale the rear subframe, driveshafts and haldex unit for sale that was removed from an audi s3 quattro with only 30000miles on the clock.

cheers for the replies guys. It's not something I will be doing in the near future but it was just out of interest really as I noticed in the for sale the rear setup for the conversion. Syncros are expensive nowadays. I went and looked at one that had no tax or mot and was proper rough and the guy still wanted £1200 for it!!! I would love to do it though at somepoint because I think with the 32 engine and 65 charger it would be awesome on the track.... If I wanted to convert my corrado to 4 wheel drive would the audi s3 quattro setup work? rear axle, haldex unit, drive shafts, prop shafts.... Ryan

Hi All, Just out of interest how do you go about converting the C to 4wd? I take it you use the rallye rear subframe, driveshafts, and hubs along with the rallye or syncro gearbox and diff? Does the tunnel need widening and the boot floor flattened? I did type it in to google and this forum came up with a definitive guide but the link was broken. cheers Ryan

I relocated mine to the boot and used two pumps. As fishwick says you do have to use two pumps as it is more a dribble than a jet... Ryan

Hi all I am after a 2.9l bottom end. I am not bothered if it is smoky or not aslong as there isn't a hole in the block or the big end bearings are ruined. The engine is going to be stripped down then lightened and balanced. It has to be cheap so my missus doesn't lose it with me. I am also after a set of 2.9l cams. Again must be cheap and no real damage on the lobes. Would prefer them to be in Oxfordshire but willing to travel. Ryan

Hi There How much would it be for the front grill shipped to Oxford, UK Cheers Ryan

Worked it out now.....It was a dodgy earth and I found a wiring diagram for the lights.... Ryan

SCCH was the company I looked at it but they don't do them for a vr6... I did base my wishbones round there design though bar the rear bar has been bent to roughly the same contour as the original wishbones and I have a modified 2l16v arb with adjustable drop links. I plan on running this for one track session and depending on the outcome adjusting the front spring rates. This setup with the adjustability on the wishbones and the top mounts will allow me to be able to get it to handle just the way I want it too. The rear end is polybushed with an eibach anti roll bar fitted. I know I keep saying I will post pics and I will once they are finished. They are at my welders at the moment getting some finishing touches and then my mate is powder coating some bits of them(ARB and wishbones) and once they are fitted I will get them up. What i want to know is SCCH sell anti bump steer arms...looking at the design I would be able to come up with something similar but what benefits would I gain over standard track ends....

Thanks for the supportive replies guys. I am sorry corozin for asking a question, but as they say it seems to be a valid question with good replies and if I remember correctly keith smiths old mk1 race car that I have just got rid of did not use a front anti roll bar...... I have overcame the problem using my adjustable wishbones and a slightly modified standard anti roll bar and adjustable drop links... I will be fitting a eibach rear anti roll bar and at the same time I have emailed leda suspension to ask there advice on there platforms and spring rates as I might look at buying a kit from them and selling the KW coilovers I have. The reason for leda is they were fitted to my old mk1 and although I didn't use it much I did like the way the felt and talking to the previous owner he said on track they were awesome. I will post up pics at some point of the front setup but it consists of adjustable top mounts, adjustable wishbones, modified anti roll bar, adjustable drop links, home made lower strut brace and a home made adjustable upper strut brace Ryan

it starts!!!!!! it was the stupid alarm and immobiliser.......

I thought I would ask as I have seen a few track cars running without them. I am going to have to look at it as even if I lengthen the drop links to push the front of the anti roll bar up the rear of the anti roll bar will still contact the arm coming from the rear wishbone mounting point. Its a pain as the wishbones are now fully rose jointed with no bushes anywhere in the system.

I have none of the a3 parts left as it all melted. I am going to start checking over everything again.

Hi all Since I am building my vr6 for track/fast road/weekend toy I decided to build my own adjustable wishbones for the front to go along with the adjustable top mounts. Problem is I have went to fit them up and they hit the anti roll bar....... So I am thinking of ditching the front anti roll bar......Is it really required or will the car wallow about in the corners.... Cheers Ryan

Hi all As you know I bought sean jaymos old vr6 and I have just finished rewiring behind the dashboard and the car won't start....The car will turn over but not start. Also I can hear and feel the fuel pump relay click over and I get a voltage reading at one of the wires down the fuel pump side but I don't hear it prime or run when cranking. I also get no fuel in the engine bay as another indication that its not priming. Has anyone any suggestions? I am going to check to see if I do get a voltage at the injectors, coil, and throttle body. Is there anywhere else I should check....And where are the earth points for all these bits in case it is a bad earth. The ignition switch looks ok but it has had the wiring cut and rejoined on it a few times and the wire to the starter has been cut and rejoined to attached the 2 wires for the cobra alarm.... I do have a few random wires. One is solid green and comes from the back of the fusebox with a spade connector on the end, The other is solid black with a bit of tape on the end that says terminal 50 and the other is part of the loom that goes to the dashboard clocks with a bit of tape on the back saying terminal 30. Ohh the other problem is with all the doors, bonnet and boot closed the alarm won't activate but with the door open it beeps, closes the locks and puts out a constant beep....That is confusing me... Cheers ryan

all I have almost finished all the rewiring in the corrado but have four bits that have me completely stumped.....The first one is A four pin plug with the colours Red/Green, Brown/Blue, Blue/Green, Brown/Red. The loom is located beside the fan blower and runs down the side to the seat rails, across the car and up and out behind the fusebox. The loom that connects into it is the same colours but at the far end of it it has the two wires for the top right hand side dash board speakers. The other wire is a random green wire that comes out the ecu, across the dashboard and into the drivers footwell 3rd one is in the wiring loom for the clocks and it is purple and white with a single spade connector on the end with terminal 30 on the wire....but where is terminal 30 4th one is a black one on the wiring loom for the stalks and it is a single black wire with terminal 50 but again where is terminal 50 Can anyone help me......... Cheers Ryan

whereabouts in london and hemel hempstead are you both?

Hi all I am after a cheap set of front door cards. I am not bothered what colour they are or what state the front is in as I just need a solid pair to use as a mould so I can make up a set of carbon fiber door cards. Thanks Ryan

Hi all I plan to poly bush the front end of the C and have lying a front subframe including wishbones and anti roll bar from a 2l 8v gti. I was wondering if I poly bush that instead would it be a straight swap out/ swap in? Or is the gti front subframe and wishbones completely different. Ryan

I have managed to get hold of a wiring loom that was removed from a mk3 golf 2l 8v injection cabriolet. The plugs for the clock go straight in....woohoo and the plugs going into the fusebox have the same missing pins so I thought it would be a straight plug in and away we go but I have noticed from your fusebox faq that there is a couple of differences like: Plug U1 Golf mk3 14 dash plug pin 12 dash and digital clock bulbs Corrado 14 dash plug pin 12 dash bulbs Plug U2 Golf mk3 2 - wht - Dash plug pin 7 (cruise control unit pin 5, 2.0 16v motronic control unit pin 2?) Corrado 2 - vio - Dash plug pin 7 (speedometer output signal: cruise control unit pin 5, spoiler control unit, ECM pin 65, radio) Golf mk3 none Corrado 3 - yel - Dash plug pin 18 (seat belt warning) golf mk3 10- wht - Dash plug pin 18 (handbrake warning light) Corrado None Golf mk3 13- wht - Dash plug pin 5 (earth to cylinder head) Corrado 13- brn/wht - Dash plug pin 5 (earth & stalk memory switch pin 1) These are the only differences in the wiring that I can see. What do I do about it? They are both ce2 fuseboxes. The one difference with the golf wiring loom is it has 2 spare wires with plugs on the end that I cant see where they go. ryan

I can't seem to get hold of a loom for a vr6 and only one for the 16v cars so my next question is does anyone know where I can get the electrical connection plugs for the clocks?