Overmind

I prefer coil overs for two reasons. The flexibility with ride height is good, although you tend to only adjust it once, or twice at most. A lot of people wouldn't be happy with the lowering available with shortened springs. Also coil overs allow you to set the footprint of the car, so you can corner weight it (which does make a difference on a road car.)

How come you can't use your existing one buddy?

I believe it is m12x1 but I would love it if someone could confirm this as I'm about to start replacing those pipes :)

Awesome car, good job :-)

Small update. I have had another load of fastenings plated, these are all original, just cleaned, blasted and replated. I have removed the front to rear brake lines completely, both fuel lines and the exhaust from the manifold backwards (found a broken wire to the lambda which I will need to repair at a later date.) The rear floor pan section is now fully sealed and I am happy with the finish. Freshly plated handbrake cable guides. Offside floor pan stripped, rust repaired and re-sealed Arches sealed and shocks back on The rear beam has been removed again so I can fit the new bushes and then it will be refitted and I can build it back up.

How old are the tyres bud? I've known old misshapen tyres cause horrendous vibrations (especially if the car has been sitting for a long period of time.) A wheel bearing could also cause a similar noise, but usually the noise will change when cornering because you are loading and unloading the weight on the wheel bearing.

I have not bought the new bias valve yet, however I will do soon. There's no going back to the old setup now mate haha :-). That's fair enough matey, to be honest I wasn't too happy about drilling holes but short of making a very elaborate jig it is the easiest way to retain the original geometry. The kunifer fuel pipe has a 0.71mm wall thickness. I work restoring classic Porsches for a living, and often use this to make up new fuel manifolds for 356 race cars. I find covering it in 8mm PVC washer hose looks quite nice and protects the pipe from abrasion and corrosion while providing a wipe clean finish :-).

There are not any holes there originally, I had to precisely measure and drill my own and then fit a temporary riv-nut (although to be honest the metal is thick enough you could probably tap a thread into it and seal it up with a bolt when you are finished.) I will be keeping these ones, but im more than happy to make you a couple if you are still interested. Update for tonight: The rear arches are now cleaned up and the couple of spots of surface rust removed, then red oxide primed and sealed with stone guard and schutz. I also removed the fuel lines from the car (I will be replacing these with 7.94mm kunifer pipe, in my oppinion it looks a lot better and will not degrade in the future.) and I have de-rusted all of the studs that hold the clips for the fuel lines onto the car and treated them. Next jobs: Give the floorpan and arches a final coat of schutz Refit the rear shocks Fit the rear beam bushes and fit the rear beam Build the rear beam up and make the brake pipes Thanks for all the great comments guys.

I gave the fuel tank a good spring clean today. I wanted to check the pump and clean out any debris inside as well as removing the years or soil buildup on the outside. Pump removed Inside all spanky clean Pump refitted Exterior all cleaned up

Haha cheers mate :-). Yeah, it'll be good to get cracking on yours.

Quick update I have completely removed the bracket for the bias valve from the rear beam mounting brackets. They are now painted and back on the car, im very happy with how they look with the new bolts. I then trial fitted the rear beam so I could start working out the routing for brake pipes and abs wiring etc. Again I am very happy with the finish so far. I also removed the rear coilovers and gave them a spruce up. The rear exhaust heat shields have been sand blasted and painted with a zinc based paint, this should give them some protection for the future. Next steps: Clean the fuel tank inside and out Finish painting the rear arches and refit the shocks Final fit the rear beam and get the car back on its wheels. Cheers guys. Bryn.

Because its the best car in the world... Fact!

They are new parts that have been gold zinc plated mate. As the majority of corrado bolts were gold plated from the factory and replacement parts now come with some weird Matt silver zinc coating. I wanted to go for an original finish. Thanks for the kind comments guys. Progress has slowed as I'm currently on holiday in turkey :thumbleft: lol. But I'll have another update ready next week. Thanks. Bryn.

So last weekend I removed the fuel lines, brake pipes and various plastic clips from the rear floor section, then cleaned the rear floor pan and removed all surface rust, then painted it with a corrosion inhibitor and schutzed it. I have been thinking about removing the rear beam mounting brackets for a while to get them powder coated. However the problem is they are slotted to allow adjustment of the rear beam, so getting them back on in the correct position can be difficult, even if you scribe around them before removal. So I have machined a small spigot and bolted it to the car which will enable me to remount the brackets more accurately, so I only have to rely on scribing marks for axial twisting of the brackets around the spigot. Im happy this method is accurate to half of a millimetre or so, but I will set the wheel alignment up afterwards to be sure. The rust in the above picture will also be treated prior to the brackets being refitted.

Nice job fella, very interesting read!

Update: Front anti roll bar powder coated Rear hubs restored and abs sensors tested, they are both operating normally so I'll be reusing them for now Fuel tank straps and brackets powder coated I cut off the bias valve and removed the rear beam last weekend and spent a few evenings removing the underseal from the problem areas of the floor pan and tidying up the surface rust. The next steps will be to remove the fuel lines and brake pipes underneath the car and paint the rear floor pan and seal it again. The rear beam brackets are next to go for powder coating, then I should be ready to re-assemble the back end and get it back on 4 wheels. Cheers. Bryn.

Next chapter. Rear disks off, quite corroded underneath but generally not too bad. The hubs look good with no signs of damage to the spindle. Milltek exhaust off to allow me to remove the heat shields and further inspect the floor pan. I then removed the fuel tank. The straps and brackets have been sent off for powder coating. Floor pan looking very solid so far so quite pleased. I then shifted my attention to the rear beam. Most of the brake pipes have come off without too much of a fight, however the bias valve is well and truly seized in position. So I am going to cut the bracket off and remove the valve all together. I will of course be replacing it, but with a manually adjustable bias valve. ---------- Post added at 4:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:51 PM ---------- The exciting new parts post!! Rear beam from a 92 vr6. Stripped, smoothed and powder coated. When I finally cut my bias valve off and get my rear beam off I will just check they are identical before fitting this one as it is from an early VR. Really pleased with the quality of the blasting and the finish of the powder coating on this. Excuse the dust :-s Here's my front subframe, again from the early vr6 I broke for spares, stripped and powder coated Rear callipers rebuilt and tidied up eBay bargain cooling ducts for the front callipers Most of the bolts and fixings I should need to put the back end back together.. Rear brake disc shields restored Middle exhaust hanger restored Front wishbones were zinc plated and powder coated for extra durability That's it for now. The next installments will be the rest of the parts restored and the floor pan stripped, cleaned and repainted, the. The fuel tank and new rear beam on. Cheers. Bryn.

I'm near Colchester bud. You? New bolts, nuts, clips and fixings turned up from VW yesterday. Quickly sand blasted them and got them off to the platers to be gold zinc plated. All parts should hopefully be back by the weekend, watch this space.

Just a quick update. Progress has been slow due to funding a new daily runaround so I can get work on the Corrado under way. Corrado in the snow! My Rado with my new mk2 16v runaround I bought and broke a 1992 Corrado VR6 around 6 months ago, from which I kept all of the suspension, subframes and brake components. The rear beam, subframe, front anti roll bar and wishbones are away being powdercoated in fresh factory black as we speak :) So today I got the Corrado out and washed off all of the salt and crap left over from the snowy period. Then got it back in the garage and got the back up and started familiarising myself with the car. Straight away I found 3 of the 4 rear bumper bolts were loose, looks like they had never been tightened up after the car was painted. I removed the bumper and then shifted my attention to the wheel arches. Those who know me, know that I am incredibly anal about rust and corrosion. So armed with a scraper I set about digging off the old underseal to see what I could find. I was pleasently surprised to find only minor corrosion at the bottom of the rear arches and a few patches of surface rust on the floor pan around the ABS wiring grommets etc. I removed the underseal from all the common areas and found no more issues so im quite pleased with this. Im going to leave the arches for now until the rear suspension is built up and then cut out the bad metal and weld new patches in. This will also allow me to cavity wax inside the sills and box sections. Rear chassis sections were spotless. The rest of the underside looks relatively tidy So thats it for now but the updates will be quicker from now on. The next jobs are to get the car sitting more stable on the body so I can remove the suspension and rear beam. Then the exhaust will be coming off and the heat shields will be removed for blasting and zinc plating. Then I will treat the corrosion on the floorpan and seal the whole area. By this time the new rear beam should be back from powder coating and my new bolts and brake backing plates back from plating. Cheers guys! Bryn.

There's someone up there looking after you mate. I'd go and buy a lottery ticket quick!

Thanks for your kind comments guys. I think the black sunroof switch might be from an early mk3 golf highline, but I'm not sure about this as it came with the car. Yes the seat trims will be going on after the seats have come out just once more to sort the wiring out. The front strut brace is an eibach one :-).

Thanks for the kind comments guys. I'm really enjoying the car, it's so nice to be back in an old car again. It feels so well weighted and Im falling in love with the vr6 engine all over again. The interior is a great contrast with the black carpets, dash and headlining its deffinetly a keeper. Those pictures were taken in Walton on the naze bud. So my plans for the next few days: Fit a new cat1 alarm system Remove the arch liners and clean out any soil etc, polish and wax the arches and refit the liners. Remove the door cards and lubricate the window runners and door locks etc (preventative maintanence) Wire in both of the seats (the heaters work but the movement motors arnt plugged in yet) Long term plans: I am gradually restoring all of the suspension components from another corrado vr6 to use on my car. So far I have stripped, blasted and gold zinc plated the front hub carriers, wishbones and rear brake carriers. My aim is to restore and rebuild all of the suspension and drivetrain components and fit them to my car by the end of the year with all new bushes, bearings, ball joints and engine mounts. I think this should really improve the drive and future proof the car. Cheers guys. Bryn.

After 3 and a half years I have finally bought another Corrado. It's a 1996 VR6 in (schwarz?) black. I found it on a well known VW forum around 2 hours away from me, it was in the higher price range for a corrado but had some very promising features and build quality. I bought it home last Sunday and started getting to know it. Pics taken after the first clean. Since then I have fitted a new polished aux belt tensioner, and tidied up s few loose ends in the engine bay. When I bought it the passenger door lock was seized in the locked position meaning it couldn't be opened. After seeing a How to thread on this forum, I managed to open the door and clean out the chrome door lock to get it working again. I also fixed an annoying ticking noise coming from the engine that turned out to be a loose spark plug!! Today I fitted a black sunroof switch and courtesy light surround to match the black faux suade headlining All comments and criticisms welcome. Watch this space for regular updates

Fixed the annoying ticking noise that I thought was a lazy tappet......... Loose spark plug...:scratch:

I could kiss you right now lol. Worked on my passenger door a treat. ****ty chrome locks had all seized up.