aposegil

no sorry but if its that easy why hasnt every other person out there running 200bhp 9A's? instead of spending the monies at the likes of TSR engines etc? that can run into £1000's like i have done and the essential element for a engine to make good smooth power is to get the entire thing balance exactly so there is no unwanted vibrations and a few guys on here can tell you mine when on the rollers would scream for ever never sounding unbalanced also throttle bodies should realise more power than standard inlet as it has less restrictions and a bigger butter fly area so i dont know what you mean the engines are being held back? ill be interested in the figures but as for inters 1/4 times i dont ever take those into account, as cars all off a sudden seem to be quicker but week later in the pod "the cars arent running right" due to their times I used to get 14.5's/14.7's in mine with full leathers, ICE and full inflated tyres and tracting probs trying to pull off , I remember seeing a video of my car from start into 2nd with just front wheels spinning up none stop and yep i got 16.7 for being stupid on that run was a bit aswell that day but all these times are at the pod as for my cams it was Nick (tsr old race mechanic used to run force one) got them specially made for me and all i can rememebr is they are built for torque and have a 10.5mm lift and no overlap as they were made for force induction

sorry mate but I cant see how your getting that Except for the fact mine had cams built for torque and when running the DTA on Coil pack i got 191bhp and 160ls of torque I cant see how your making more than 10bhp more than me considering I had Vw motorsport oversized pistons Ceramic covered internals Fully balance engine compnents even cams able to rev to 8000rpm conrods strenghten etc APR bolts 3 way cut valves Full porting with everything matched to head 2 1/2 custom system and off course the DTA what 1/4 miles you hitting in these cars? what spec are the cars? and were you had the figures certified?

sorry but I find it very hard to believe that a engine thats not had much done is running 201bhp there has to be alot of work in there and im guessing its one of TSR race engines? call me stupid but all of a sudden there loads of K-jet 200bhp cars out there :roll: I might not know every trick under the book but I do know a standard engine with cams some porting isnt going to give you 60bhp increase just because u added some fuel it takes more accurate tuning of fueling and ignition.

24 :(

im actually really pissed about this 8 years driving and passing first time and guess what ive got to go back to do this damm test yes im getting my big boy bike licence when i can be bored to go and get my theory done :(

but i thought he took it all off Geoff back in March when he left form canada? i heard that Geoff was passing everything onto Vince so he could carry on for him?? any how might be wrong

so wait a min stealth can do VR's DTA APR now K-jet re-chipping but when it came to doing my custom map for my G60 he cant? whats all that about? anyone else chipped their G60 there? back to topic lol also i still fine it very hard to believe that a engine can be mapped perfectly through a mechanical piece of equipment come on even webbers can be more accurate and they dont even mate huge power figures but i guess it can be done but im guessing this Ian B has crap loads of money in that engine? because i had £4000 just in the engine and I wouldnt say it was slow gave a few vr boys alot of run for their money so I cant imagine other than knief edged crank and high lift cam's he could have done better than mine but in RMN case as he is putting abf engine in there I think its the only sensible choice the mkIII system is built for that engine so whats the point putting a engine in there without the right acessories lol plus the flow of the mkIII inlet is alot better design IMO to the KR or 9A

really whom in club gti? and considering Bill from badger 5 on throttle bodies only made 201bhp I would like to see that setup

when i changed over form K-jet to DTA ok its not OEM but still i found a huge difference in the way the car pulled especially top half and its not as if it was only my car that sufferent the k-jet my mates, (rmn ownes it now) even thou it pulled strong never felt it was as good as it could be gazzag60 i agee with u its fine but not good

is it? ive yet to fine a 200bhp k-jet thats run on AMD or Stleath racing the most i could get out of mine was 186bhp was leanign way of mid top range

well im only a fam of one set of side skirts the DSP ones they just fit perfectly bloody strong and dont look out of place at all and yes ive got them on mine :D sadly i dont have a head on pic but look here and u can try work them out lol http://www.online03.plus.com/aposegil/

I would say get urself down to JMR (16vg60 on here) or G-tuned (lowG) on here G-tuned being the most local guy to you both good people As for brakes unless your going to do track the cupra R are over kill G60 brakes are good with good pads (pagid fast road) and some discs change of fluid and braided hoses if you want some more pads Ive got S2 calipers on mine and Ive got no complaints at all especially as I could brush off crap load quicker form 110mph to 40 than another corrado ;) Also like mention concentrate on getting the car to run 110% bushes, sensors etc these are common on the corrado and over looked alot :(

Mate its simple If youve got the ABF engine get the complete engine loom etc (should be four plugs for the back of the fuse box and a extra relay for lambda you might have this already) and your done. Then all you have to do is get the fuel lines made up with the bolt connectors oh and throw all that k-jet crap away :D keep them loom incase u need it for future

that is a very good way of looking at it

mate go for it its not as if the wear out

u see it loads of times with nova's corsas escorts fiats etc so i think they should re-look at modified cars a different way If you do a conversion and the rest the car not built to handle the extra power they should charge u for it aswell

yeah mate trust me there is a shed load of bad 16v's out there but the right ones are always worth the money people just dont see past them

yeah dont get me wrong it is but if you put a 20v lump in a golf mkII driver and not change anything like brakes suspension etc i think thats more dangerous

Yeah I agree with you about costing more but for someone like me who's willing to do the work shouldnt be hard to do than pay someone £5000+ for a engine conversion but like mention a more modern engine which is the trend at the mo does help which i can see the point also insurance works weirdly on this if I was to put a 2.8 24v lump form a bora for example in there I would just pay what it would cost to insure a bora 2.8 24v where when I insured my 16vg60 it went up £300 because I had the power rating at 250bhp 110bhp over standard Same thing happened when I asked if it was a 20v lump in there just comes to, if your running standard power wont make a difference but once u go past the standard power output thats were your premium goes up.

ok guys im not planning to do any more engine conversions this is more of opinions as I dont compeltely agree with him i still think there is people out there that think G60 lumps are the dogs nuts also I know the market dead like mentioned there is two 20v's at the mo not shifting and thats because its decemember and in fairness im just thinking about getting drunk and having a good time :) lol also I know what you mean about body work but lucky for me all i have to do to give it original looks is front bumper and side skirts the rest to me and i guess most is great as its just little touches nothing in ur face like ive seen onother corrado's

Well been a bit bored this morning and me and a guy at work (he's vw nut aswell) were talking about the sale of my car as he's been out of the office all week etc Any how as were talking he turned round and says why dont you throw out that G60 lump and put a VR, 24v lump (told him about phat's one) or a 20v as ive got the intercooler etc He's argument is what people want a newer more powerfully/reliable units Now some of it makes sense but im putting it out there to all you lot whats your opinion??? p.s. I hate 20v lumps but the fact he says thats what people want etc from a modified car makes some kind of sense

not really at the mo london they have just started the Drink and drive thing and thursday being one of the busiest night out now here im not suprised Also there tends to be more police about on thusday due to what happened in July they recon thursday is their day

Seems a lot for a valver! I dont think so Ive got no idea why people always knock 16v's i know there is alot out there but when you get a nice mint one (and matthew's looks mint) IMO they are worth it. There are one of two engines that came in corrado's (2L 8v being the other) that need the least amount of headache/maintaince to keep it going and very strong units. Look at RMN on this forum he bought my mates corrado and he will tell you for a standard lump that thing flew easily give VR's trouble and G60's (depending how what stage) If you look at other cars models the simple ones that grweat units and cheap to run tend to ask for more money than the higher more complicated engines so dont know why corrado's should be different Also the great thing about White cars they never show up scracthes etc so tend to look alot minter than another one like my colour in same condition.

I know but uve done it your way and others will do it their ways we will just have to leave it at that and let other choose how they do it.

yeah I agree with you about the directional vents and the chav thing (even thou they tend to be stuck on items) but sorry I don’t agree with the idle thing, I know the present owner Karl (lives about 10 mins away) and that golf doesn’t create any more heat than my corrado does on idle You think about it when you shut that bonnet how many gaps etc does the hot air have to escape?? this summer I had to take the rubber strips where the window wipers are on the corrado off for another reason but I found less hot air coming into the car because there was a small wide gap at the back of the bonnet were the heat must have been escaping. Otherwise it would have been coming in through the small little holes in the bulkhead which I noticed once I put those rubber stips back on. In the end of the day to get the most power of your engine you need to keep the temps down, all of us know heat soak effects performance hence why summer days cars are slower. Dont get me wrong all OEM stuff is tested etc by companies etc reall well and work well on OEM engines but when you start playing with them and I think if your going to spend the money now-a-day there is better ways off doing it than paying for old OEM stuff on.