stevef

Sorry to say that you will need a modulator. You can confirm the fault by removing the connector on the front centre of the modulator and using a multimeter check if between the top left pin and the middle left pin is between 3.5 an 7.5 ohms. If you are lucky it will be OK but more likely it will be OC. Look on ebay for a replacement. Saw one recently for £35. Good luck

CV's while changing gear????? Never heard a CV make a noise while traveling in a straight line. If they make a noise in a straight line then find a deserted carpark, apply full lock and put your boot down with the window open. You will hear the CV's if they have gone!!!! If you get no click-click noise doing the above on either steering lock check the gearbox mounting. If a rusty couloured liquid is on top of it change both it and the front engine mounting. If no liquid is present then check/replace the front engine mounting. Hope this helps.

I have VAG-COM and a 16 pin connection lead. I will help anybody in the Manchester area with a reading. Cheers

Cheers guys you have put my mind at ease. £140 - wow!!

I have just repaired my ABS so used VAG-COM to clear the stored error in the ABS control unit. While there I checked the engine ECU and to my horror had the following code stored... 00513 Engine speed sensor no signal. I cleared the code and started the engine (I read the code with ignition on but not running) and the error has not returned - yet!!! Could the error be down to me having the ignition on with the engine not running? If it is the sensor where is it and how much to replace? Cheers

I have now registered with Ross-Tech and all is functioning correctly. Should have baught the cable from the as well but we live and learn eh!!! Hope it serves me well. Stevef

My crankcase vetilation valve has broken. It is the one on the rear left of the cam cover (VR6). I have been to the stealer and the say that they cannot supply this part? They want to sell me the air inlet pipe, from the MAF to the throttle body, for £60 +VAT as it comes as part of this!!!!!!!!!!!!! I then went to my local Ford agent and he has supplied the part for £18. Not sure if this is a common problem but I have seen others bodged on in the past. Now I know why! FYI it is Ford part number F7364573. It also has the following number which looks very VW on the body of the new valve 7M0 128 101. Moderators--- Not sure if this is in the correct section so sorry just in case. Stevef

Andy The unit under the bonnet is the ABS modulator. From your description the problem is not on that unit. As said above, the control unit is in the LH kick panel. The sensor cables are the thick black ones. Happy hunting. Stevef

Mine was blocked recently. I don't think it moves, it points straight up the middle of the window. The washer jet comes in 2 parts, a long plastic tube with an elbow goes in from the bottom and a smaller pipe with the jet in it goes in from the top (after raising the plastic cover). They come out OK if you give them a firm tug. But I am sure they don't turn with the wiper. Stevef

Oh dear. I had a Mk2 16 valve on which this pulley had failed. I too purchased a £40 replacement but I noticed a second problem before I fitted mine. The broken pulley had battered the PAS pulley so that its belt didn't run central to the double pulley. In fact, on removal, the PAS pulley was ground away on one side and bent. This costs £17 I think. Check for this if you can. I didn't have any problems after I replaced both pulleys for the following 2 years I had the car Good luck! SteveF

For a start the sensors should read 1k to 1.3K or 1000 to 1300 OHMS depending on how you prefer your figures. If you checked one of the sensors and it was OC then there is a problem! From the ABS controller the sensors are connected pins 30+48 LHF, 29+47 RHF, 28+46 LHR and 27+45 RHR. As far as I can tell the cables for the ABS sensors only have one join each between them and the controller. The fronts are on the strut tops and the rears under the rear seats (find the catch under the front edge of the seat base and give it a push with a screwdriver while lifting the seat). The cables can be seen in the harness at the controller as all 4 are black and thicker than the others. I would remove the parcel shelves and the rear seats and try to get an idea as to how the cables are routed - through bulkheads etc - then follow them. CABLES ALWAYS BREAK AT A POINT WHERE THEY FLEX, JOIN OR ARE SECURED. They seldom break if laying in a cable form that is not being moved or stressed. Look at the sensor ends, the joining connectors and where the cables pass through the bulkheads or are secured. Hope this helps.

I used the release 311-2 shareware software once and it worked OK. I then tried to use a few features and it looked for other modules Ok and found the ABS. It read the ABS OK also. When I then tried to read the ECU a second time it just looks for and finds it but goes back up a menu level so that it won't read the DTC's. I suppose I will have the register then. I got the connector from a link on EBAY not from Ross-Tech. Looks like it may have been false economy eh!!!

Just got a connector and downloaded the shareware version of VAG-COM. Read my error codes first time but is unwilling to do any more. Is the shareware version realy this restrictve or am I doing something wrong? Is it better to just pay the registration fee? Cheers Stevef

On closer inspection of the image It looks like the rotor arm is high? Is it that the top of the rotor arm is hitting the 2 front terminals? The early 16v engines had the rotor glued to the driveshaft. Was this not to prevent this? Beat me up when you see me if I am talking rubbish!!!

I am in no way as experienced in these things as most of you guys but, if my memory serves me correctly, when I last changed a cap on a valver I too thought that 2 of the contacts had been worn away. The thing is, when I obtained a replacement it too apeared the same. I think it is the way they are made. In the first picture you can see that 2 contacts have cutouts behind them and 2 not. I think that it is this that makes them appear worn? Just an optical illusion IMHO.

Dick Dastardly. I had my ABS light illuminate the other day. It was getting on my nerves so I removed fuses until it went out. On trying to re-start my engine it would catch but then cut out. I replaced the fuse and it started and ran OK. The ABS light also behaved normally (came on for 2 seconds then went out). I tried again and the car did the same. It just cut out if the ABS fuse was removed. Must be linked to the ECU. Chech the fuses for the ABS.

My Mk1 Golf and Mk2 Golf both have Thermo Time switch's in the K Jet injection. They control the "on" time for the cold start injector. The Motronic injection on a VR6 does not have one of these. There is a blue temperature sensor on the thermostat housing (front right of block) and an intake air temp sensor on the front right of the inlet manifold. Cold start mixture is adjusted using readings from these (and others). Does it run OK when warm? Is it getting warm?

May not be related in any way but have just noticed on my wiring diagram that post '94 cars supply power to the film type MAF via the fuel pump relay. The earlier cars with the hot wire MAF supply it via the engine control relay. It could mean that the MAF is causing the relay error I am getting? I will bypass my imobiliser when it stops raining!!!

Ah well!!! I have replaced the faulty knock sensor and fitted a new fuel pump relay. Unfortunately the problem is not cured. The engine is a little smoother but still misfires at around 1500-2000 rpm on light throttle. The problem is that this co-incides with 30-40mph in 3rd,4th and 5th gears so appears omnipresent. When you open the throttle the engine pulls cleanly- maybe a slight misfire but I may be paranoid about it! Next is to take the imobiliser out of the fuel circuit to ensure the pump runs OK. Any other ideas!!! I will keep you informed.

I have obtained a wiring digram and teat procedure for the Teves IV ABS fitted to post '92 VW's. I have had to photo it so the qualityis poor but it is still readable and much better than nothing. If anybody wants a copy they can PM me and I will e-mail it. Cheers. PS I also have wiring diagrams for the VR6 Engine wiring.

Nice to hear that the cam position sensor has cured your fault. At least I found one of the reported errors on my VR. Its difficult to continue investigating once you have found a problem as I have no real way of knowing if all of the errors are interrelated. I may have another look at the fuel pump relay issue once I have a replacement. I can doctor the old relay to fir test leads so I can drive with my meter connected. I will report back once the knock sensor is fitted. Cheers

Started my investigations today. Tha output on the white wire to the Lambda sensor read 0.1 to 0.8VDC and constantly changed. I think that is OK acording to Kev. I removed the knock senors and sensor 1 ( the one on the back of the engine) is just a blob of melted plastic with a broken piezo crystal disc sticking out of the side. I have been quoted £75 for this part from the stealer and it will be with me on Tuesday. Have looked at the fuel pump relay and cleaned it. I drove with my finger on the relay and was not able to detect it dropping in/out but without a wiring diagram cann't check the wiring. I will get a replacement when I collect the knock sensor. I will let you know how it goes with the new sensor. Cheers.

Can you get to the knock sensors from above or do you need to go from underneath? Do you need to remove other items to gain access? I am going to need a wiring diagram to investigate the relay error. Does anyboby have one? Where is the fuel pump? I need to look at the wiring at that end too!! Any help much appreciated!

Thanks for the help with this. The helpline say that it is the ultrasonics that need to be adjusted. Just need to find the box with the adjuster on it now! Cheers

Hi Robbo + Kev I have forked out and had my ECU read. The garage used a Sun tool to do this so not 100% that codes will be correct but here goes. 17978 ECU Blocked 01259 Fuel pump Relay intermittently SC or OC to ground 00524 Knock Sensor 1-G61 SC or OC to ground 00561 Mixture Adjustment Adaption Range (ADD) intermittently below minimum level Thats a fair old list for you to ponder It looks like a chicken and egg situation to me in that the problems are related to one cause. The fuel pump error could be down to me trying to start the car forgetting to disarm the immobiliser. Where is the Knock Sensor? Any help much appreciated!!!!