bcstudent

They buzz while running. Why, what does yours do?

My Leon made 196bhp on the standard map with a Forge 007P, turbo-back Piper exhaust and Carbonio intake, running on 95 RON unleaded. It went on the same rollers a week later with a Custom-Code stage two map, Forge turbo intake pipe and a tank of V-Power. It made 242bhp on the second run. The first run was aborted due to wheelspin and the intake temps were already up fairly by the second run. It made around 230bhp on the third run, but the standard intercooler was well and truly beaten by then. I'd love a decent FMIC but I don't use the car enough to justify the cost.

Get it on the rollers...

I would assume it's so you can run two subwoofers in parallel.

It's not a hard job, just a bit time-consuming. It's a lot easier if you remove the dashboard but you do hear stories of people replacing the matrix with the dash in place. Allow yourself a weekend to get it sorted and you should be fine. A new matrix isn't very expensive either, at least it didn't used to be. As for your clocks...I couldn't say.

I think it looks fine. Not better, not worse, just different.

I had to do this to get my Corrado through an MOT a couple of years ago. I hacked together an uprated loom and used some higher output bulbs. It wasn't pretty but it did the job. I've got a pair of early headlights with good reflectors if they're any good to you.

Nice avatar Walesy :)

Well, I suppose everyone needs a goal in life...

It would seem that the VR6 is actually one of the more frugal engines in the line-up.

When's it going to be heading for a dyno? It sounds mental!

The banjo bolts have a pretty coarse thread IIRC; I hightly doubt you'll damage any. In fact, I'd be less than surprised if you find it all comes apart with no fuss...regardless of how bad it may look.

My 1.8 16v used to do that. The only way to start it if it was warm (not hot) was by turning it over with the throttle floored. When it fired it'd run on three for a few seconds, before clearing its throat and being fine from there on. If you tried to start it when warm with no throttle it'd start and then immediately die. After that it would be a right git to start again. Fitting new injectors (and o-ring seals) solved the starting issue completely.

£500 is a pretty stellar deal, to be honest. Performance Torque get nothing but praise everywhere I've seen them discussed. I was planning to take my Leon there, but Custom-Code came through with a great price for their mobile service. That saved me a 400-mile round trip. If you install a boost gauge, fit the tee-piece in the vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator.

Must have missed this question... I would say yes, it's worth it. I see from your signature that you're planning a stage two remap. There's probably not a great deal of point on going for a stage two over a stage one unless you're planning on fitting a less-restrictive TIP and exhaust. I'm not exactly sure what the differences in mapping are between the two, but I imagine it's ultimately more boost. With a stage two map you're looking to increase the boost from around 9psi to over 20psi - my Leon peaks at around 22psi. That's a lot of extra air you need to get in and out. Changing the TIP and exhaust makes the engine feel so much more responsive. That said, there are people on seatcupra.net claiming big numbers with remaps on standard cars. I can only speak from my own experience.

Nice! Welcome to the forum. Do you have any power figures for the engine?

Those are indeed the bigger players, although there are plenty of other companies that do a decent job of custom mapping...such as Jabbasport and (probably) Stealth. I have to disagree with the comment about mapping on the move though. A generic map is perfectly safe for a standard, or lightly-modified, 1.8T engine. My Leon was mapped to stage two on my drive using Custom-Code's 'we come to you' service. It's not an absolutely 100% perfect map, but it's at least 99%. It also feels a lot more 'factory' than the factory management ever did!

From memory, if you pull the connector off the fan run-on switch the fan will start up. I ran a battery flat when I didn't notice the connector had come adrift.

I wouldn't assume that a remapped car has been driven like it was stolen. I probably drive my remapped Leon slower since the remap. In fact, I drove a 220 mile round-trip to Stansted airport on Sunday with the cruise control set at 68mph. Obviously, it gets the taps opened from time to time but it's certainly not abused. In conclusion: I'd forget about the remap (although I would make sure it was mapped by a reputable company and drives as if it left the factory) and judge the car based on its condition and history.

Yeah, but he fuel (octane) isn't anywhere near as good..... MYTH! ;)[/quote:2bn3nxs6] A myth indeed. The US and UK just use a different measurement/rating system. It's like saying 160kph is faster than 100mph because it's a bigger number.

Nice...but I suspect you're going to get told off for making two threads. Welcome, by the way :)

I would steer well clear of the Split-R unless you're a fan of the engine management light and 'limp mode'! Fit a Forge 007P and save yourself a lot of headaches. Cheers, chap. Already got a Split-R. Aparently they're OK if the spring is set absolutely spot on. Otherwise I'll just use the blanking plug provided, which basically turns it into a 007 :) Have you got one on your Leon? I use a Forge 007P. There are a fair few people on seatcupra.net that use the Split-R; most are now in full-recirculation mode though If dump-valve noise is what you're after then fit an induction kit with a 007P. The DV noise I get through the Carbonio intake makes a statement! It's so loud, in fact, it's verging on a bit chavvy. It doesn't help that I had to fit the 007P backwards in order to get the engine cover to fit. The DV sits a bit higher than usual as it's connected to a Forge silicon turbo inlet pipe. Fitting it backwards adds a loud metallic *clang* to the DV echo from the induction kit. It's a bizarre set of noises that draws a bit too much attention really.

I would steer well clear of the Split-R unless you're a fan of the engine management light and 'limp mode'! Fit a Forge 007P and save yourself a lot of headaches.

Congrats on the win.

£750 for an R32 seems cheap, compared to some. Take a look at the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X 2.0 GSR FQ-360....£950! It says that's only for the 'first year' though. I really don't understand how it's all going to work.