colinstubbs

10.30 this morning, silver C coming the other way on the A361. I was heading NE away from the West Country going to Kent, only saw you at the last minute, got a wave off but I was behind a large camper going up hill!

Fixed mine today, the flange had snapped off, doesn't look oem but I don't care!! I cut down a 15mm brass water pipe fitting, having checked clearance with blu-tac(!) and screwed it on with some Araldite Steel epoxy. I added a pond liner rubber gasket under the brass nut, seems to work a treat!

Available on ebay... £18.75 Inc postage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203559633064?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=j87aptQhR0m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=wSClran9TgK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Well it took a while to get top of my list again, broken solder joint where I'd slaved in the late interior switches... So I probably needlessly replaced the regulator mech, good job it was spare and not bought especially ... ALWAYS fault diagnose... don't assume 🙄🙄🙄

Ahh those bits, got you 👍 Good here so far, it's rainy and I have tap issues here at the mo... Oh and I drive it for 40mins yesterday, stopped for fish n chips then had to get my partner to come out with a jump pack to start it..... Deffo some issue there, though no battery light 😒🙄🙄

Yeah happy to mess about with multimeter and jump links, although I need the doorcard off anyhow cos it sounds like the yellow tip of the regulator frame is tapping on the door 🙄🙄 I thought there was some potentially tricky issue with the late switches 😉 Do the clips tend to break or what? Thanks for all the input peeps. I'll have a bash at shorting the plug and getting the motor moving. I still have the old motor so I could take that apart and try and revamp that if necessary. May well take Cressa up on the switch offer if that ends up being the only fix....I'd really like to mend what I have though!!!

Cheers, I did this to my early switches but changed to a late interior some years ago. I'm having drivers window issues so looking at options. Was working after I changed the regulator, until I put the doorcards back on Not even getting a relay click now. The idea of buying a switch off ebay to fault find for £55-70 doesn't appeal!

There definitely used to be a 'how too' on dismantling, cleaning & repair of early electric window and mirror switches many moons ago, I've looked but can't find anything for the later switches. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

I'm guessing it's not possible to delete the brown plastic fuel return line NRV on top of the swirl box and fit an online item because the box also utilises the return to the tank? I have a small cracking the rim where you can replace said NRV. Contemplating cleaning it all up and chemical metaling the bastard......

All the headlining etc is out at the moment already - I was just wondering if I could source the problem in advance so I could drop it, fix it and refit in one go!! As I thought that's not an option! Buggerations I'm guessing a broken cable or such cos it won't manually shut either

My Corrado has been sat for a long time with little intervals of use for various reasons and has had half the interior out for sometime because the sunroof broke just as it was closing from fully open, so it not only doesn't work, its bloody noisy too!! Now there are parts available (via K-rado) it might kick my arse into locating the issue. To that end if anyone can suggest how to remove the inner panel WITHOUT tilting it first I'd be very grateful, I'm not aware that it's possible... This would be at least give me a chance to try and reduce the wind noise and possibly confirm the issue without dropping it first. 😎😎

My Corrado has been sat for a long time with half the interior out because the sunroof carked it just as it was closing from fully open, so it not only doesn't work, its bloody noisy too!! Now there are parts available it might kick my arse into dropping it and locating the issue. Although if anyone can suggest how to remove the inner panel without tilting it first I'd be very grateful, I'm not aware that it's possible...

Not to worry thanks Chris - Volksworld13 can make me one up. One less to worry about later 😉 cheers anyhow

Hi I'm after the metal pipe from drivers front brake flexi hose to the caliper if you have one? £? posted to Kent please?

Hi I'm rather urgently after the front right brake caliper metal pipe if you coud sort me out?? £? posted to Kent? Please!

Well new lift pump fitted and all seems well, I tried con-checking the old pump but it seems pretty FUBAR-ed and open circuit. It was obviously on its way out big time when it was giving me gyp. As Toad said via FB the retaining ring was a big of a git, but loads of WD40 and a club hammer and screwdriver skilfully applied sorted it :bonk: I'd hoovered around the top of the tank and then again after applying the hammer! I had to cut off the hose clips on the two IN-OUT hoses and then another retaining the lift pump to some in-line valve/rubber device - I replaced all these with stainless steel jubilee clips. All in all a bit fiddly but no major dramas :)

Cheers for that dannyboy I'm thinking new lift pump to be the way forward. Volvo MOT first thing (8am - what was I thinking!!) then Corrado time again!!

Approx 9 gallons onboard so it ain't that...

1990 1.8 KR 1.8 16v - I have had problems with the engine kangarooing/cutting out and the lower fuel pump was very whiny when this happened. Felt like fuel starvation. RAC attended and suggested pump or blocked filter. It was due a filter (240k) so I went for the cheaper option first, changed the filter and it drove to work 20 miles no problem, but then it did the same thing halfway home again - good old RAC, it was even the same lad! Bit the bullet and got a new pump which I've just fitted, had to remove the whole panel due to dodgy pump screws so it was nearly all disconnected and then reassembled. No leaks but the new pump is also very noisy. I'm wondering what else could be the problem, the in tank pump seems to be priming okay and the car starts okay so the accumulator appears functional if a tad rusty - would it be worth replacing the accumulator or looking at the in tank pump? Could the tank pump be failing to supply the main pump with sufficent fuel or does the main pump suck the fuel from the tank once primed?? Edit:- Its still up on ramps would this make a difference? Any pointers gladly accepted!!

As the title ISV Control relay/module wanted for early Valver. I have no power supply to the ISV but con-check indicates no short to earth so I reckon mine is bollox hence the request!

do you have the ISV control box please? If so how much posted to Kent.

I run the same bulbs with a loom that's gotta be 15 years old now - much, much better than oem - first mod I'd do with another Corrado followed by the Wiper arms if they'd not been done before

According to http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3554938-Corrado-Mystery-Parts-Identified...&p=43561567&viewfull=1 the parts pictured below are Sunroof groove fillers Part no.s 722 684 865 & 722 684 866 which I collected having removed my headliner, but I can't see where they go as they aren't listed on Vagcat anywhere I can see - Can anyone help me out?? Would this have anything to do with the failure of my slidey sunroof bit?? or maybe be a symptom of said failure? [ATTACH]74532[/ATTACH]

its just the cost that's my issue aren't they all about £200 new? This one has done 237k - wondering if a 'used' one is false economy ---------- Post added at 6:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:05 PM ---------- being as they are £33-£45 used on e-bay - £46.50 for new pattern one is tempting!

Does anyone have any experience with these or any feedback at all??? Linky Pattern ISV from VEEDUBMACHINE.CO.UK