colinstubbs

So you know all about trains, buses, and taxis??? :lol:

Do you use the sort you apply with a cloth or the additive in the wash bottle? I used to use the super concentrate stuff where you put in a squirt per litre of washer water but now all i can find is the crap stuff where you add half the bottle, and it's nowhere near as good. The old stuff was better than the wipe on stuff and a lot less hassle.

The nearest to this I've heard of is the ol' 'bonnet popping open at 70mph'!

RobMulvey, if the bearings were changed with the new discs you can probably get away with tweaking them up just enough to remove the play, without replacing them.

and then sub divide it into "external" and "internal", or "Ice and secure" for stereos, and then have a seperate section for "off-topic", and a "for sale" section..... oh, we already have all those things, it's the forum.... :lol: :D :lol: Ford Orions had the aerial in the demister as standard, so it is possible to do it and have both working, dunno how though!

Inspired in Extremus!!!!

Certainly an interesting addition/alteration, I guess some sort of roof mounted cooler?

Finally saved the pennies up then Nikki! Good stuff, shame about the tracking! I'm not jealous at all!!!!!!!! :D Colin

1 litre Kia Picanto hire car in Spain, gutless piece of turd. My wife liked the colour (sort of amber gold)and talked of getting one! :shock: 'Over my dead body' i muttered under my breath. We were overtaken up the mountains by cars with trailers on for christ's sake :oops: Totally Awful. She's now got a '00 Corsa 1.2 16v, handles horribly, woolly steering etc :brickwall:

Good, the bloke's an utter w@nker.

welcome to the forum. I've not got a Vr6 but loads of others have, I'm sure they'll have an idea. Colin

That's a deal i'd have gone for i have to say. Low mileage means nothing if the car's looked after, but if someone wants to pay a premium for it it would be rude not to let them :lol:

Yeah the metal valve is pressure relief but i just checked it hot too to make sure it wasn't Plssing me about! If you follow the small bore by-pass hose it goes to the plastic NRvalve on the matrix outlet. The recall fit was both valves and the hose. If you look at the 2 hoses from the matrix to the rest of the system they have been chopped to fit the valve set. You can buy the lot from VW for about £25, it's one item. I checked mine cos i thought it needed changing but it would seem to be not the case. Which actually is a damn nuisance cos some thing else is obviously amiss - bugger!

What Yandards, said, think of what you've spent and how much it would cost again!!! Unless you were gonna get a VR6 instead. Personnally I'd keep it but then I've had mine 8years+!!!!!

As i understand it, it's not a requirement but if it is there it has to be legal.

I took it off the car and blew through both pieces (plastic and metal). Metal ones only letting a flow through in the direction of the matrix, and it's still doing it after heating it with boiling water so it's not somehow shutting spuriouly and diverting to by-pass when hot. And the plastic non-return is functioning as advertised. :wink: I was wondering if a crap water pump (corroded vanes?) or duff fan switch (coming on early at too low a temp? long shot methinks) would give a similar problem?????

I put the seat right back and reclined it to do the doorcard, and also dropped the window to stand outside to fiddle with the mech, torch handy! I wasn't sure bout the prob which is why i took it to Nick. I originally thought it was a detached doorpin rod jammed under the doorcard but once that was off it was apparent that that was not the case! My problem was the door handle wasn't letting it's mech operating lever back to it's neutral postion, it was still under tension. Once that was pushed down (in my case) the lock itself could unlock. As i understand it the corrado handles push the lever down to operate, so you may have to lift it to return it to a neutral position, if that is actually your problem. Good luck Colin

New door pins aren't expensive either even from stealers, can't remember prices though. Might be worth raising the door a bit by fettling at the hinges so it's all aligned again (lock/pin) if you do.

i have similar prob. I've checked my by-pass valve and it's fine, run a hosepipe through the matrix and no obvious blockage but no heat through vents, or only warm once the engine has worked hard. All the hoses heat up and it's bled. What's bloody wrong?

Think he means headlight switch, someone was doing kits to fix them.

Venom motorsport used to do some for around £40 6-7 years ago heat shrunk/2 relay/fuses good instructions etc. I got one then and the only probs have been two fuses blowing and the first 'old' set of tired bulbs both going together after a couple of months. Prob worth treating your C to new bulbs too if they've been in a while, Yandards got a thread about 80% brighter phillips bulbs that sound the nuts. 80% Brighter Bulbs I'm using the halfrauds 50% ones cos my last one blew on a sunday, typical, not cheap but luckily they fair well in that test.

I may have made a slight error, it was late/early :oops: , in that you may not be able to remove the card from the front with the door shut but you will be able to get access to the locking parts of the mech through the square hole in the door. I had to lever against this to manipulate my operating lever so that the locking mech unlocked with the central locking. No key holes A3 handles - doh! I said 'I', but meant 'Nick Young' at Youngs Garage, Gasoline Alley, Wrotham Hill, Kent the first time, when I couldn't sort it myself. He then let me use his forcourt and tools to fettle it a bit!!! Top bloke. All part of the fun. Good Luck, Colin

First take off the the interior pull handle and the door opening handle and any switches, speakers, pods etc you should then get a small screwdriver in to undo the two rear screws on the rear edge of the card. Undo the locking pull knob and pull off the triangle shaped bit of trim by the mirror (screwdriver may help it's clipped in), then gently pull the card away from the door at the back edge and lift slightly to seperate the black trim at the top of the card from the corresponding bit on the door along the bottom of the window, it's tight but just go carefully. Once the top trim is out of the top of the door the card will be pivoting on the front door card screw which you can't undo with the door shut. You can then prise the doorcard away from the front of the door and the plastic receptacle for the screw should pull out of the door. Job done! I had a similiar prob with my drivers side and my Audi handle conversion, I had to lever up the operating lever on the lock mech so that it would unlock properly. I'll get a new mech eventually but since the card's been off 2 months it's done it twice so i carry a screwdriver!! It's on the list. I hope this helps. Colin

I've had a GSF clutch in my '90 valver with no probs what so ever for the last 6-7 years and 70-oddK miles

I've got the Halfrauds 50%ers at the mo (had to buy on a Sunday!), and a loom from venom that, with a yearly WD40ing, has had no probs apart from a couple of fuses in 5 years. Lights are great. Like the idea of more light from the Phillips though......