2cc

Guys, I'm just in the middle of putting proper spks in the vr - goodbye nokia c**p. One thing to note is that the dash has 10cm apertures, so you will have to make up mounting plates for your new tweets. Also, if you are fitting cross-overs there is a convenient space behind the kick panel on the drivers side. Easier I found than trying to get em up under the dash. Unfortunately you can't use the left one on the vr coz they have fitted one of the computer units there. However, the space is available on both sides on a 16v. Don't know about the G60, you'll have to look. Also, make sure you get custom fit for the rear, some of the 6x4s on the market have large magnets that will not fit in the pods. Pioneer & Kenwood both do suitable ones but there are probably others

the yellow thing andyg60 posted :shock: puke obviously the guy's(?) a schizophrenic this way he'll be ok however he feels lol

Doh, I feel really silly, how did I miss that Jim had already posted the mfa procedure :oops: Sorry guys I tried it on the '90 16v last night and it does what it says on the tin. Can't see what the differences on VR might be yet coz I've got dash in kit form at the moment

Hey guys, I knew I'd read something about this and have just found the article in issue 26 of the Sprinter. I haven't tried this myself yet (my thoughts in brackets), but quote the bit about instantaneous readings for you to have a go at: HTH Tell us if it didn't

You got it Joe. usually :( but I know people who have v v lucky and only suffered min damage. Fingers crossed

like the idea, an I like driving, but guess location will be a problem as we're pretty widespread..............

i can't open it either

vondribbley, Jeez, just seen the horror story but happy u still have the c. Some low life tried to nick my 6 from a safeway's carpark in mid afternoon a few mths ago. Messed up the door, but fortunately didn't get in so alarm didn't kick in (scorpion full closure, & shuts the roof) - they saw me coming & took off sharpish. Too late to do anything by the time I realised what they'd been up to. I wonder if the red mist would have taken over or would I have ended up with a screwdriver in me head if i'd had a go. Cost a few bob for new handle, bits and getting the door fixed. Just proves nowhere's safe these days. Maybe xtra sirens inside might be a good scheme. Interesting idea with the phone Nigel

Have u fixed this yet? If the feed and door switches are working ok its probably the board. The one on my 16v packed up, I think it stopped working alltogether, but was definitely the board. Can't think why the rear sreen might have affected it - could just be a red herring

Kenwood auto mask unfrozen - one likes to keep ones hands free... In case anyone else suffers from this, after dissing the power, trying the reset etc it turned out that one of the car loom side speaker wires had just decided to come loose at the connector block. Once pushed firmly home (ooh er mrs) the thing came back to life. Happy bunny :)

More on the air temp sensor. Just checked on mine for the test readings you should get. Easiest way to reach the sensor is to lie on the deck accross the front of the car head to driver's side, stick your arm up behind the bumper and you can then feel the cooling duct; the sensor is on the top right at the front. With plug disconnected and ignition on the MFA should read "-40"; if you want to check the voltage at the plug it should be in the order of 3.2volts; with the pins in the plug shorted together the MFA should read "+50" (tho' doesn't actually show the + sign). If all OK then the sender is duff. As I said b4, check the part number coz VW do more than one. They look identical 'cept for the number and have different resistrance ratings - means you'll get the wrong temp readings if you fit the wrong one or may not work at all. My 16v is a '90 and the number looks like 171909 2724 but the last bit is scuffed so can't be certain. Hope that sorts ya mate Don't all laugh but in the middle of that my just fitted Kenwood mask head unit has just died and frozen open. :cry: If its not one thing its another!

Guys and gals you will be pleased to know that I have chased these problems before, though both of them on me 16v. The outside air temp sensor is fitted inside the front end of the brake cooling duct on the driver's side. Can't remember now if its on the top or underside, but the sensor just plugs into a wee metal mounting plate fixed on the duct. You don't have to remove the duct, just uncouple the connector and wiggle the sensor free. It is a simple matter to check that the loom wiring and MFA is working OK. With the sensor connector disconnected, turn on the ignition and check the MFA readout. Then short the connector pins together and check the MFA reading again. The memory is a bit hazy, but I think you should get "0" in one condition and "-40" in the other condition. If these are OK then the sensor is definitely a goner. Be warned that VW changed the sensor somewhere down the years, so make sure you keep the old one coz it has the part number on it. I'll get under mine tonight and confirm these figures for you tomorrow (and the price). The MPG at 99.9 is more of a bugger. Bear with me, this next bit may be of use to other 16vers. The instrument cluster on the 16v has a vacuum sensor mounted in the back of it fed via a tube from the engine bay. Sometimes the tubes get chafed and spring a leak (if you're lucky), but more common is the sensor failing. This cost me £125 for the part in Jul 2000. You can easily change this yourself but be careful and don't bash it about. Take the whole cluster out the car, remove the clear screen (two screws) and you can then get at the fixing screws for the sensor from inside. You may find it easier to get at by removing one of the main instruments (a couple of fixing screws) but again be careful when separating the instrument's electrical connector from the circuit board - the clusters ain't cheap. Anyway, I took the cluster out of the VR6 to check this out and found that this cluster just has an electrical connector on the back. So I can't shed much more light on this right now, but I'll see what I can discover. Don't go away...........

Yeah, my figures agree with the other 16v guys. You know it has a 5th gear or do you need new shoes?

dazzy is right and you shouldn't use throttle on cold start. Like lots of engine management systems these days the C has some sophisticated fuel/air monitoring and a number of things could be the cause. May not be to your liking, but I would recommend you ask the VAG guys (some of them do know about Corrados) to do a computer diagnostic - only takes a few minutes so shouldn't cost much and at least then you'll know what's wrong.

I've found this to be typical of both the 16v and VR6 and nothing to worry about and I'm sure will be true of all models. Park up for a couple of days and the back pads tend to stick to the discs and when you move they come off with a bang :shock: Not to be confused with the cable/lever getting frozen on - you can tell that's happened coz when you release the handbrake its all floppy (see your medic for advice) ie no pull from the caliper return springs. I just leave it in gear with the handbrake off.

Losing all the dash indications when you turn the key certainly sounds like a sneaky electrical fault. But coupled with the vibration from the fuel pump after you have turned off, the problem might be something to do with the pump mountings/electrical connections. With the ignition on the pump runs continuously to maintain fuel pressure and you can hear it running tho' it shouldn't be particularly loud. However, like everything, they do age and sometimes get noisy. (The one on my 16v gradually got noisier over a period of a couple of years and eventually stopped being a pump and forward motion stopped as well. New pump fixed that) Anyway, in normal conditions it shouldn't vibrate. Difficult to say from here what the problem might be but I'd suggest that you have a good look at the pump mountings and wiring for starters in case it has come loose and the wires have chafed (or something bashed it while driving - not uncommon here with the state of some of our roads) and then made contact where they shouldn't have when you tried to start her. As stevo29 says could be the relay but I wouldn't expect that to take out the dash indicators. Best of luck mate and I'll come back if I think of anything else.

Jims16v. Cheers buddy, nice to be here. Hope you got the front bumper sorted OK. Sorry to hear about the back end, my sympathy - I know what you mean. My 16v got 'done' in a car park (message above). The nice job by the body shop then got ruined 3 DAYS later when I collected some clown up the a***. Bummer. But at least he paid for the next paint job. Ain't the dark colours a real pain for showing up every little scratch.

Jim, look on the bright side. Believe me it drives you :mad: when you come back to the car park and find it bashed Fat Tony, I've often wondered about the 'dent removal' claims and whether they are any good. I've got the odd minor wounds from car parks and crap from the road, paint intact. So what can they deal with and how do they do it?