2cc

Racing car bits Yan! You'll need them on that 16VG60 *lol*

Yeah, thought I'd read some correspondance on this a short while ago and think Greenstuff is the one suggested as closest match to the Pagid. Aparently they have recently(?) improved their pad.

Well, I haven't got a 2l or done the cam mod, but yes, sounds very likely to be a timing problem.

Have to agree with Steve@. I've got PIs and Koni TAs on both mine; the ride is great, especially good on the VR.

What temps was she showing? Reckon she was pretty hot looking at that

Yep, very useful bit of kit, well worth getting. Also very useful to 'crane' the gearbox with - I've rigged up a separate little hand winch to bolt on the beam for doing that.

On TG it looked great. That colour scheme is just hideous. It should only be fixed on condition it gets a proper paint job.

Yes a tad expensive, but it is really excellent stuff - I've not seen better over the years.

Jim, no doubt Carl still has the other one *lol*

The lower nut (the thing with a funny slotted top) is 40Nm (30ft lb) and the top nut is 60Nm (44ft lb)

Firstly, the top nut has a fairly low torque setting (I'm at work and can't remember the figure) so I really wouldn't recommend you tighten it with an air gun. With the top mount fully assembled and torqued up, and then only turning the top nut without locking the damper piston, you will be able to turn the top stop along with the damper piston as they are effectively locked together by the nut. The amount of turning resistance you get will depend on whether the suspension is hanging free or the weight is on the wheels. HTH

aw shucks :oops:

That does not sound good. Sudden wheelbearing failure also a high possibility going by your description. Also from what you say you cannot check yourself so would advise a garage check it soonest.

And what's wrong with teddy bears might I ask? (Mine is a fully accredited Nurburgring Co-Driver 8) )

The cooling system has an auxiliary pump which runs after engine switch off. It sits on the pass side rear top of the engine so is 'behind' the dash. Unusual to be able to hear it from inside the car so I'd tend to agree with Blue_Joe that there may be air in the system and/or the aux pump may be on its way out and become very noisy. Just open the bonnet and turn on the ign and you will be able to hear it spin up.

Chris, the door pins (B pillar) do wear with use and make a big difference to how 'nicely' your doors close, so changing them is not a bad thing. They only cost a couple of pounds each; I have the number at home if you need it. But, from what you say, (and above) it sounds as if the doors have dropped at the hinge end so you may need to do some adjustment/replacement there. Have to say though that I've not really heard of anyone experiencing problems with hinge sag on the C but its the only thing that can account for the doors catching the sill. Stating the obvious, adjust hinges so the door aligns with its aperture (need to be careful as the door is heavy and you don't have a factory jig to hold it in the right place), then adjust the pins (they just unscrew on a moveable captive nut) to align in the centre of the lock stiker. HTH

This may be a red herring as I can't remember the symptoms if this happens. Does your outside temp sensor reading indicate correctly? It's not unknown for the right hand fog and temp sender connectors to get crossed over (the wiring is colour coded but the connectors fit both ways) Paint shop did it to my valver once; obviously the fog won't light up, but can't remember if it takes any fuses out. Might be worth a look see.

Almost OT, but remembering our conversations on the Karmann trip this gives me an idea for a new thread "How long does it take you to park your C" 8) (sorry, bit bored at work but at least I can be on here)

Don't tell me Sam, you've been waiting for a scuttle cover to build it round :lol:

Basically, yes. Once you bolt the friction plate and cover loosely onto the flywheel then you use the alignment tool to centre the friction plate between the two. If you look at the 'nose' on the friction plate it should be centred within the pressure plate fingers. Then tighten up the bolts. Hope that makes sense.

CaiosG60 PWR, I like that Facom tool. Its dead easy to use, it fits between the strut and the inner panel and you just screw the centre to force the wheel out to the angle you want. Much easier than trying to pull it out by hand. Just ask Yandards about that, lol, we've done it several times on mine, his and NickVR6's. Where did you get it by the way; I'd like one of them in my cupboard. Davidwort, hello m8, yes you do have to take the wheel off but I stand the car on axle stands under the outer part of the wishbone so the suspension is in as nornal loaded position as possible. It's all a bit of a guesstimate anyway using this tool and nowhere near as accurate as the proper laser gear, but very much good enough for preliminary setting up to save your tyres if you then plan a trip to say Stealth for example.

worn pads, worn discs, leaky servo would be the obvious things to check for first

Or if you want a manufactured tool look for a camber gauge at Frost.co.uk About £30 or so

I recognise that picture Steve :wink: Hi punisher, what type of intermediate sprockets have you got, I'm assuming that the outer part has been changed to simplex along with the chain and cam sprockets; they of course would normally be duplex on the 2.9 engine.