bigbluec

the only reason i think the starter is fine is because whenever i put a live wire from battery to the starter it turns over. Am i missing something?

Cheers Supercharged, Can't seem to work out my starting problem, the starter itself work fine but occasionaly nothing unless i unclip the wire going to the solenoid and directly feed a wire to the battery positive. I've changed the starter switch twice just incase it was a dodgy one but no joy. any further ideas?

Hi Guys, Just wondered if any of you could point me in the right direction for which fuse or relay the power to the starter motor runs through. if it does at all ? Brgds Bigbluec

Bigdunk has your lighting wiring been upgraded like majority of us have done on this forum? (additional set of wiring directly linked through battery with two relays and two fuses?) If not try the following: -Check all fuses -Remove plugs from rear of headlights check they are clean and try some electrical contact cleaner If you still have no luck check inside the headlight units themselves to see if anything has gone awry! Best of luck

My 90' 1.8 16v on a 70 mile trip on average 15 being on country lanes the rest free flowing dual carriageway! I would get around 260-280 a tank depending on how free flowing the drive was if you get my drift! The worst i ever saw was 240 and that's on an old 12 gallon tank my MFA readings were within +- 2mpg on no.2 setting throughout the tankful. Hope that helps

What can i say.... I've been with Flux now for nearly 4 years and have seen pretty much every aspect now... :mad: When i set my policy up they lost some of my documents which by the sounds of it isn't that uncommon but they blamed me and sent threatening cancellation letters. Through the next 2 years no problems apart from it was clear they were to frikin lazy to get off there arses and try and get me a lower renewal premium (thought that was the idea of brokers?) so had to chase down quotes and make them lower there renewal quotes. Last year i had a knock for knock on my old Valver only required a new wing and mirror very minor damage but other party wanted to claim :mad: They dealt with this pretty well and the repair although v.slow was of top notch quality. Roll on this year and my renewal quote has jumped up by £200 ouch phone and have a chat but they refuse to lower even though through brentacre using my current insurer Highways can beat it by £110 unbelievable and they want nearly £70 quid to cancel even though i never agreed to an automatic renewal. All in all the service is exceptionally poor and the staff are lazy Gunts. Avoid avoid avoid.

Can't wait... Watching endless repeats on uktv is doing my head in.

Kleenex! more like bounty! I soo hope i can go to this Group B's are the dogs danglies!

Hi Riley, The switch for the boot light works of the actual boot latch, you can test to it by forcing it closed with your finger or a screwdriver, just remember to press the boot opener button before you try slamming back down though!

A failed expansion cap noramlly has both of these symptoms: 1, As you look at the underside the core with the O ring doesn't move (it should wobble) 2, When the car is running the pipes are almost impossible to squeeze due to over pressurization. The VR6 Thermostat fits vertically but be warned you're 99.9% going to need a new thermostat casing, to be fair it's not ridiculous money but that's not the point! There are plenty of other threads on all these subjects if you need more info.

Think toad has hit the nail on the head, either that or thermostat has packed up in closed/semi closed position.

Not sure how clever the Vag-Com system is to be honest but i'm sure there are a few on here that can help with that side of things, think Dr matt and phattvr6 are pretty clued up on that side of things.

Hi Matt, No piccies i'm afraid as the unit is still solidly in one piece. Removing the coilpack is pretty simple: 1. Undo all 6 ht leads (may be worth taking a quick phone pic so as to see where they go back on!) 2. Using a spline/hex remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover on. 3. Unplug the coilpack (single large idiot proof plug) 4. Remove the 4 x 5mm alan bolts holding it on. Refitting is the reverse of removal! ;-) Edit: Sorry to hear that dubenvy have you checked fuelling side of things? mattkh if your sig is correct (1.8 16v) you have an old coil at the back with a king lead going to a dizzy not a coilpack

Fixed :D it was indeed the coilpack it had started breaking down internally but believe it or not no cracks on the casing hence it wasn't arcing. Big thanks to the Phirm for lending me a good coilpack to try.

Glad to see this thread back at the top where it belongs. Big thanks to Tim, Sam and crew for sorting out my misfire as usual just can't recommend these guys enough they truly are top class.

Will check all the hoses when i get a chance, fuel filter is new but i guess pump is a possibility. Cheers for all the advice guys and keep the ideas rolling in!

It's such a difficult one! the corrado is a bug and a money pit at the same time, i had the money to go for something a bit more sensible but opted for a VR6. Everytime it goes wrong like at the moment! i frikin hate it but you get an early morning or late at night when you hear that engine on full song and a few sweeping corners and it just puts the biggest grin on your face i think it's the one car i have driven (out of 205/golf gti's thru to RS6) that will always make me smile there's no word for it apart from very very special.

Thats not cool... How do you not lose it! more earache in the long run if you do but i think i'd bite my tongue off in the process trying not to, gutted for you.

140 miles round trip a303, m3 and a little bit of lane work which is fun in the dark. but all in all scary watching those miles rack up so quick!

Cps was replaced about 6 months ago and I can't remember it causing an idle tickover when it had gone last time? also no fault code has shown up on Vag-Com???

Cheers craig to be honest i'm hoping that it is the coilpack! i just want it back to it's normal purring self! Did the coilpack in pitch black with plenty of mist but will try a new one anyway i think

No click that i've noticed from any of the relays but will have a closer listen when i get to see my car again on friday and let you know. Keep hoping for some magical words from Kevhaywire or Dr Matt who seemed to be fairly clued up on these things.....!

Cheers steve, have run vag com but no fault codes have shown up which i guess is good and bad news! Don't think it can be the leads breaking down as they're fairly new think i'm going to have to bite the bullett and buy a new coilpack if that isn't the cause I'll take it back or keep it for the future! As for split hoses any ideas on which ones to check? Edit: Just a thought but are Injectors a possibility?

To be honest i don't know but would imagine difficult trying to get the later panel to fit without changing the entire surround i.e ashtray and vents area of the centre console other than that i'm fairly sure the bowden cables are easy enough to change over. But all in all there's not a lot that goes wrong with the old sliding mechanism but the same can't be said for the later 3 dial setup

Well that's what i was hoping but i just can't figure this out all plugs are giving what i'd call healthy looking sparks and evenly but something is causing it to miss and i wondered if any of the above symptoms were indicative of an internal slow failure? Still don't really understand how the blue temp sensor can effect this but i have just tried running it disconnected and it made no difference? :mad: