Driveline shunt?

[Neil VR6 0]

My G60's done 111,000 miles and seems to be holding together very well. However, when I come on and off the power there seems to be more of a jolt than I think there should be. I'm not particularly ham footed with the clutch and the problems is exaccerbated by hard acceleration in the low gears (unsurprisingly). Still, even when crawling in traffic in 1st gear, there is a jolt when you gently apply and release the accelerator. Could this be a clutch release issue (I don't know when the clutch was last replaced) or an engine mount issue? Cheers.

[dr_mat 0]

It could be either. The clutch has concentric springs that are supposed to soak up some of the driveline shunt, but a worn gearbox and diff will do this.

The other thing is to make sure the engine is running tip-top because tuning can seriously effect the part-throttle response, particularly at very low revs...

[Neil VR6 0]

I thought somebody might say that :( I might get it professionally looked at by that chap at JMR. Cheers anyway (harbinger of doom!)

[dr_mat 0]

Trouble is, it's one of those things - the only way you'll completely eradicate this is to get the gearbox and diff completely overhauled. Not cheap. It's just a thing that old cars do...

[Henny 0]

I'd go with engine mounts more than clutch/gearbox... The G60 box is actually pretty strong and doesn't tend to fail in this manner... when the diff goes it simply blows a hole in the casing and stops working in most cases! The springs on the clutch plate aren't for the driver's comfort, they're for assisting the mechanical components in relieving the instant strains applied when the clutch bites...

 

Quick way to tell is to get a friend to get the car upto biting point with the handbrake on while you watch what the engine does with the bonnet open... any more than about half an inch of movement in any single direction indicates dead mounts... Do it in both 1st and reverse gears so you can also check rear mounts... ;)

[Neil VR6 0]

Cheers Henny, that sounds much cheaper! Any suggestions for slightly buffer engine mounts?

[Jim 1]

Popular choice is a Vibratechnics on the front and OE ones for the rear.. or just go nuts and get Vibratechnics allround :)

[hutchyvw 0]

after reading henny's post i will mostly be ordering some new engine mounts :(

 

had my car on the rollers the other day and the engine was practicaqlly leaning over the front bumper :shock: still pulled 150bhp at the fly tho so i'm happy :)

 

hutchy.

[Henny 0]

yeah, mine jumps about quite a bit (yes Mike, it's getting new uprated mounts soon... ) even though the mounts were new VAG ones, they simply couldn't handle the engine anymore... :lol:

[andycowuk 0]

i am about to take in around 10 EIP solid mounts from the states....within the next week or so.....if you can hold on - should be under 70 notes (just).

[Tempest 0]

As Jim said, good choice is VT on the front, and oem VAG for the gearbox and rear engine mount. All bar the gerabox mount are fairly easy to replace, but even the gearbox one should be a heck of a lot easier on RHD Rados than on my US LHD G60 :shock:

 

VT front mount 141 smackers at Stealth (includes postage, if you ask nicely and mention CCGB membership) :D

 

Tempest

[emax 0]

I get driveline shunt in my car too. I've got a VT mount on the front and had the rear mount replaced too. The clutch has done 10,000 miles. I guess the only thing left is the gearbox? :(

[Jim 1]

I'm sure my rear mounts have gone - its the only way I can explain it being awkward to change gears with the quickshift only a few months after having it all lined up again! :(

[dr_mat 0]

Every car over 50,000 miles old suffers from *some* driveline shunt!!! (Some new cars do too!)

There's far more serious things to worry about than having to be a little bit careful with the clutch! Jeez Euan, you're worse than me for paranoia! ;)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

when I come on and off the power there seems to be more of a jolt than I think there should be.

 

This is something people have complained about ever since the MK2 Golf GTI. It's a sign of worn mounts or a binding clutch plate. The fuelling needs to be spot on too otherwise the transition from over-run to acceleration is too pronounced, which is also causes the engine to rock.

 

Drivetrain shunting is not a common VW trait. The gearing isn't short enough to cause bad shunting, especially in the leggy VR. If you want to feel some serious transmission snatching, try a 205 GTI or a Type R Civic.

[coolrado 0]

the shunting used to be terrible on my g60 even after i replaced all three engine mounts. then my clutch locked up and when i replaced that it did improve considerably, the clutch springs where so worn out they where loose in their holders and one had broken free :shock:

there is still a little slack but that has to be expected on a car of this age i suppose :(

[Neil VR6 0]

Gulp, and how much is a new clutch? Can a std G60 clutch handle say 200 brake without too much trouble?

[coolrado 0]

the clutch kit was about 80 quid iirc, my c was on its original clutch at 123,000 and the drive plates where hardly worn, would probably be worth uprating the clutch with that sort of power though have a search i am sure there is something about changing to a vr clutch on here

[Henny 0]

Get a VR6 clutch from GSF and that'll easily take 200BHP (it's taking 250ish in mine! :lol: ) and is actually slightly cheaper than the G60 clutch! :| 8)

[Neil VR6 0]

I took the car to JMR and it's definately the front engine mount. It's being replaced by a solid alloy unit that John fabricates. That should stiffen things up a bit!

[kerrinmay 0]

Does anyone know what sort of price I would be looking at to have new engine mounts fitted?

[Neil VR6 0]

Phone John at JMR on 07974020031. He does his own fabricated ones, they are £70 but I don't know how much to fit. I'm getting one (amongst other things) put on next wek. :D