Timing chain???????????

[Whitey 0]

I am sure I have read on here that the timing chain on a VR6 should be changed at about 100000 miles , so I went down to me local VW specialist (non dealership) and he quoted me £895 for chainand clutch which is on its way out, in shock I decided to ring the main dealer to see what they chargein the hope it would seem like I was getting a bargain , only to be told that there is no specified interval for timing chain replacement it only becomes a problem if it can be heard rattling, now I was airing on the side of cation by replacing the chain as I have only got 90000 on clock but as clutch needs sorting I thought 2 birds with one stone.

now though I am confused I know I need a clutch but if I can get just that done obviously I may still be married next week

advice will be gratefully appreciated here

cheers

[dr_mat 0]

*sigh*. The VR6 timing chain paranoia creeps ever onwards...

Yes, *some* people have found they need chains at 90k. Some haven't. Mine went to 115k. Some have gone to 145k or more.

If it doesn't rattle then the most you should consider is getting it inspected.

 

I have to admit the whole "doing the clutch anyway" thing is a bit of a pain. There's around 3 hours labour in fitting the clutch alone. Once the clutch is off, the additional work for the chains is something like 5-7 hours, so I'd probably err on the side of caution and get the timing chain *inspected* before deciding whether it's worth potentially paying that 3 hours (for the clutch) twice in quick succession.

[quikstu 0]

I was told by a specialist only to change it if you can hear it rattling.

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

Mine's gone 105k so far & doesn't rattle.

 

HTH

[Tekara 0]

How long would it take a mechanic to inspect the condition of the chain and tensioner ? I'm in a similar situation but cars on 114.5k would rather leave this job till it needs doing.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That's the problem though... they don't always rattle when worn. When it is rattling, the damage is already done and the chances of cam wheel slip are greatly increased.

 

Mine was quiet up to 93K but I inspected the upper tensioner when fitting the Schrick, only to find the tensioner pad was worn through with of orange phenolic resin particles everywhere. Another 3 or 4000 and the chain would have worn through the rivets, which is when you get metal on metal contact - causing the dreaded rattle of death.

 

As mentioned already, a visual inspection is the only way to be sure.

 

I'm not trying to be a prophet of doom, just trying to prevent the worst from happening.

[dr_mat 0]

This discussion can descend very easily into "thou shalt replace thy timing chains", and I think the risks of damage are overstated. How many VR6 engines are out there? And how often do you hear of chain *failure*? Very very infrequently. I've heard of a couple, out of thousands. It's true that there's also the risk of skipping a tooth on one of the cam wheels when the chains become very sloppy, but again - that doesn't happen very often...

Of course, if it's rattling, you *know* it needs doing. But until it's really rattling, it's enough to just inspect and see..

AFAIK Inspection can be done through the top, looking down past the cam sprockets, but that means taking the rocker cover off.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Well the information is here, so people can choose to ignore it and carry on as normal or invest in some new parts to protect their investments. You can preach about chain related stats all you like, from the safety of knowing yours are done already, but the fact remains that 100K is the defacto limit for them, and it's a job that *will* need doing if a VR6 is see itself into the 150K plus lifespan.

[dr_mat 0]

I did mine cos they were rattling like barstewards and were riding on the rivets. Sure, 150k is about the upper limit on this stuff. But if you do 10k a year and you're driving a 100k mile motor, you might well have another 5 years before you have to get that work done...

Is all I'm saying....

So as you say, everyone can make their own minds up!

 

I'd like to point out too, that I *did* say it was a good idea to inspect the chains. I kinda wish I'd done that earlier in my ownership, but there you go. My chains didn't slip, nor did they snap, and it was rattling for a good year before I finally got it fixed.

[Supercharged 2]

Yes, I couldn't believe how badly yours had worn in 10k miles Kev, like I said before as soon as the hard coating is worn off the upper tensioner (which takes the best part of 100k's) the chains will start eating through into the rivets, thats another reason why the mk4 items are a good upgrade as they are solid so even tho they wear, they will do evenly (and slowly hopefully!)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The chains won't snap, well, there's been a handful of cases, mostly seen on Galaxys but they do stretch a wee bit and our own PhatVR6 has had them slip on him.

 

I'm not saying "do it now or suffer the consequences", but rather check them visually first and be prepared for a chunky sum if the upper tensioner looks unhealthy - as you said.

 

K

[Tekara 0]

All good advise guys, but any rough ideas on how long it would take a mechanic to inspect ? Only asking because the cars off to the garage for a few more things, an extra charge for a bit of time might be well spent to gauge how old long my tensioner has got left.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

They need to remove the inlet manifold and rocker cover, and also the side plate for a proper inspection, so a good few hours :(

[Tekara 0]

damn might well be worth just getting it done in my case. Oh well another months wages to the C, this is worse than having a wife.

[goodridge 0]

I've recently carried out this job on a Golf VR at work. It was quite time consuming although it only found that the chain tensioner was worn because I was doing a head gasket on it. Once your in behind the flywheel it's not too bad. On the one I did the chains looked fine and the customer didnt want them replacing even though they were a reasonable £30 and £50 odd quid (genuine) So i ended up changing just the tensioners and top guide. Its not a nice noise when your cranking it over for the first time until the oil pressure builds up! Sounds like the chain is gonna jump! :shock: It soon quietened down though 8)

[dr_mat 0]

Can't believe the VW technical manuals don't tell you to pre-pressurise the chain tensioner before fitting!!

[CHRISVR6 0]

did mine at 100k along with the tensioners, head gasket, piston rings, valve stem oil seals etc etc etc etc, umm no sex for me for a year :lol: , lovely person before must have taken good care to make sure she warmed up properly :mad:

[goodridge 0]

Can't believe the VW technical manuals don't tell you to pre-pressurise the chain tensioner before fitting!!

 

It actually said to release the pressure with 0.8 gauge piece of wire, there was nothin in the manual about fitting a new one! I checked with our Master Tech!!!

[Whitey 0]

I have opened a real can of worms here but I do need the clutch doing as it is on the floor and sometimes difficult to select the gear without doubling the clutch but as for timing chain I think I will get them to inspect and hopefully be honest with me, I must say the guy who referred to warming the motor up first I always do and have done for the last 15000 miles it never sees 3500rpm till the mfa tells me its into the 80'c

cheers anyway

[dr_mat 0]

Hang on - your clutch is "on the floor"?

The clutch usually only needs replacing if it's slipping, or vibrating cos it's worn unevenly or off-centre.

Clutch not disengaging properly points to a clutch master/slave cylinder problem.

[Mike Edwards 0]

My "other" VR6 was at 160k when I sold it.

 

The original one is at 132k.

 

Both silent...

[PhatVR6 0]

I have a set of chains, with the tensioner and stuff, only done 1500miles

 

£40 for the lot.

[Mike Edwards 0]

Okay - how much for these and the quickshift?

[PhatVR6 0]

£100 for the lot.

[Mike Edwards 0]

I'll be having them then.