Bleeding VR6 brakes

[Nick_Micouris 0]

Can anyone give me a step by step guide for bleeding the brakes on my VR6?

[Andy Brookes 0]

The way I do it is to use an easyblead kit (had it for about 15 years), start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work towards the closest. Remember to have the ignition on so that the ABS pump can keep running.

[Nick_Micouris 0]

cheers, Andy

do you need to take the wheels off or anything? Is it a case of draining the bleed valves.

As you can tell - I havent done it personally before but want to make sure I am doing the right thing! :help:

Nick

[willwoll100 0]

Yeah wheels off to get at the bleed nipples.

[Joe M 0]

Dont know about the standard brakes but you can do it with the wheels on with mk4 rear calipers and 288 fronts. Just need to jack the car up a bit to get access.

[Rpmayne 0]

There's also a bleed nipple on the master cylinder aswell which should be done last apparently.

[Andy Brookes 0]

You can normally do it with the wheels on, but if its the first time its been done for a while I would take the wheels off and clean the nipples up and loosen them and then nip back up. That way you have plenty of room to loosen them without fear of searing them off.

[Nick_Micouris 0]

thanks everyone! really appreciated! Didnt realise that I had to do the master cylinder too.

Also - I take it that I just need to ignition on and not the engine actually running for the ABS pump?

[Andy Brookes 0]

Master cylinder is not normally needed, but could be worth it as it will only take a minute.

 

Yep, just ignition on. The pump only runs when the pressure needs topping up, so you will only hear it when first turning on the ignition for a couple of seconds and when you open one of the bleed valves.

[Nick_Micouris 0]

nice one, Andy! Thanks :)

[kangaroo 0]

Whatever you do don't let the fluid level drop too low in the master cylinder and introduce air into the system. I did, and it made me cry. :cry: It took me ages to get it all out. i don't think the abs was too happy about it. other than that its quite simple :)

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Be careful, the ABS pump produces very high pressures. You don't want hydraulic fluid in your eyes, so wear total surround eye protection. It's not soppy, it's SAFE.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Dub Style 0]

I always seem to think you need the engine running, so the servo can work properly :roll:

[Chris VR6nos 0]

Don't forget the proportioning valve at the back axle, best if the back wheels aren't left hanging by jacking up as this will seriously limit the amount of fluid allowed to flow through it to be bled

 

 

Chris

[RW1 0]

Hello,

 

Corrado Brake bleeding 1989 - 1995.

 

(Also includes the clutch circuit)

 

2 man job particularly when flushing through the clutch circuit.

Require 1 ltr of DOT 4 brake fluid. System is not designed for DOT 5.

 

BRAKES:

 

Applies to all UK models, 1989 – 1995 whether fitted with ABS, ABS/Traction control or just plain conventional.

 

Just like any other VW of the era with standard brakes. ABS or not, they are all the same procedure.

 

Assumes here that the pumping pedal and bleed collection bottle method is used. Auto bleeders etc, treat the Corrado as standard type brake circuit.

 

Bleed sequence is:

 

1 - Rear right (offside) caliper

2 - Rear left (nearside) calliper

3 - Front right caliper

4 – Front left caliper

 

Carefully pump the pedal with the bleed nipple open at each wheel and close caliper nipple on a brake pedal pressing action. Do this until the new fluid becomes visible in the collection jar.

 

*** Don’t let the brake fluid reservoir level drop below the clutch fluid feed of the main reservoir, about half way down the side wall of the plastic reservoir otherwise that will introduce air into the clutch circuit.

 

If you jack up the Corrado with the rear wheels off etc., as Chris VR6nos has said, you will need to depress the proportioning valve on the rear sub chassis nearside. Bleeding flow rate shouldn't be affected with rear wheels on the ground at full weight.

 

CLUTCH:

 

Definitely two people.

 

With the main brake fluid reservoir full, connect a feed pipe to a collection bottle and open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder on the top of the gearbox.

 

In the cabin, grab hold of the clutch pedal (as it is sprung assisted to go up into the dash!) and gently push while holding the pedal.

At the bottom of the stroke, close the slave cylinder nipple and pull up the clutch pedal back up to the top again. Open the slave cylinder nipple again and repeat 5 more times.

Ensure the slave cylinder is fully closed and test the clutch pedal for firmness and operating the clutch.

 

Finally, open up the bleed nipples on the brake and clutch master cylinders and let out a little fluid into a rag while observing that there are no ait bubbles.

 

Finally check the main reservoir fluid level is at the mark near the top on the reservoir side wall, usually a solid triangle symbol.

 

Bleeding now complete, check the pedals are operating with no lag or sponginess. Test drive and all should be OK.

 

--------------------------

 

NB.

The USA Bentley procedures, particularly the ABS brake fitted Corrado procedures do not apply to the UK models.

ie. Forget the ignition on and all that with VAG1551 connected. That’s the Teves 02 system not the Teves O4 ABS system

 

There will always be some old fluid left in the ABS pump and valve block. So, just refresh the brake fluid at a shorter intervals than the 2 year recommended. It will dilute this factor over time.

 

Also, now the Corrado’s are drawing pensions, after 1 month from changing the fluid, check all flexible rubber hose pipework at the wheels and sub chassis. The hoses can rapidly deteriorate resulting in weeping leakage or bulges on the outer rubber walls. This more likely to happen if the Corrado is used infrequently or stored of periods like over the winter. The new fluid for some reason breaks down the inner pipe of the rubber brake hose which show up as a bulge or the outer hose having wet areas.

[Joe M 0]

If you jack up the Corrado with the rear wheels off etc., as Chris VR6nos has said, you will need to depress the proportioning valve on the rear sub chassis nearside. Bleeding flow rate shouldn't be affected with rear wheels on the ground at full weight.

 

 

Or do what I done the last time and jack it up by the rear beam.

[willwoll100 0]

1 - Rear right (offside) caliper

2 - Rear left (nearside) calliper

3 - Front right caliper

4 – Front left caliper

 

I thought the bleed sequence is;

 

1 - Rear left (nearside) calliper

2 - Rear right (offside) caliper

3 - Front left caliper

4 – Front right caliper

 

Furthest away from res first to nearest last???

[RW1 0]

I wouldn't disagree with your sequence, the above sequence is directly out of the VAG manual. I guess they haven't converted the text for the RHD although the section is for UK Corrados.

 

I think its more to do with the fact that one compartment of the reservior can be emptied out of the top and so when bleeding with a refill bottle in the reservioir it forces new fluid into the compartment with the old. The old fluid going down through the master cylinder once the bleed valve is open.

 

Both rear brake circuits are separate so it matters little which side is first unless you want to be squeeky clean.

[Mawrick 0]

reviving this old thread - as I have trouble bleeding the clutch - the pedal just seem to be "dead", I'v pumped it quite some time - but only seem to be coming air from time to time.

 

Would my best option be to buy a vacum "drainer" and hook that up to it? - if not any other tips - as it doesn't seem to be much progress pump the pedal - close the drain-plug, take out pedal and repeat.......

[dirtytorque 0]

i have always found the clutch system relatively easy to do on my corrado.

Pressure bleeder like the ezee bleed kit is a real god send(maybe a must) for this type of job.

Makes it a one man job.

[Mawrick 0]

was thinking about buying something like this:

 

 

hooks up to air-compressor and makes vacum...

 

EDIT: btw do the brake have to ble bleed before the clutch ? (I'v changed all brake lines etc)...

[Mawrick 0]

hmmm.....tryed with the vacume thingy - to not much avail - any other tips for doing this?.

 

And do the brakes have to be totaly bleed before the clutch? (I would presume the clutch is on it's own circuite).

[muppetlab 0]

I recently did a complete brake overhaul and had to bleed about 4 litres throught the entire system using an easibleed contraption on a spare wheel. Took ages and around 25psi :shock: but just as i was about to give up it came good. dont forget the bleed nipples on the master cylinder and abs pump if fitted. Clutch is seperate but wise to give it a quick change of fluid whilst you have the gear out. good luck

[Mawrick 0]

Is there a bleed valve on the master cylinder as well (on all models - as I couldn't see any on mine), if so should/must this be bled before the slave, I would think the vacum should get it through....

 

Also - what if the clutch pedal have been pressed while the slave was out from transmission - it says "caution" in the bentley about it, but realy not sure what's the trouble with it. (I don't think it's been pressed though but just to make sure)...:)

[RW1 0]

The bleed valve is right on the outer end of the master cylinder on UK or LHD Corrados.

 

Just doing my brake fluid at the moment . I won't do it as I haven't broken down the system.

If you have let the reservoir go down too far, then it is advisable to check the master cylinder bleed valve.

 

Do this valve after the slaves. Bleed it by just opening with a rag to hand. If no bubbles. Just close again. Doesn't need a vacuum on it as there is no length other than the thickness of the master wall and the valve length. Gravity will force the fluid to flow.

 

.