It's broken - now fixed - or so I thought

[KARMANN 0]

Jonrb post up your results as mine wouldnt start last week,then eventually started fine.Think mine was getting fuel though,as i could smell it.

 

Cheers Fraser

[Reggit 0]

Looks like me and my big mouth!

The bl**dy fault returns.......arrrrgggghhh

 

No spark, engine cranks and fuel relay switches rapidly. Disconnected crank position sensor and cranked engine, no clicking of fuel relay so I guess that is doing its job (the thing is new anyway).

 

So I guess I'm looking at the coil pack, or wiring to it. I'm just unsure about this as when running the car is fine and doesn't misfire at all.

 

Vagcom is clear.

 

jonrb - I may have led you up the wrong route with the cps, but worth a try

 

Any suggestions welcome.

[jonrb 0]

jonrb - I may have led you up the wrong route with the cps, but worth a try

 

The Engine Speed Sensor you sent arrived today, Reggit. Huge thanks for that and you are surely a candidate for Top Bloke of the Month for not only giving it to me but not accepting anything towards the £4.25 it cost you to send either.

 

Unfortunately it doesn't seem to have done the trick. :(

The engine cranked over a little sluggishly, so I have put the battery on charge, but from experience the engine should have caught under normal circumstances so I'd say I'm 80% certain it hasn't fixed it. :(

 

Still, I'm no worse off than when I started. The car is still going to my indie on Sunday ready to have work done on Monday and I'll just have to return to Plan A of having it recovered there rather than under its own power.

 

Ho hum. :(

[Funkster 0]

If you disconnect the coil pack but leave everything else as is, do you still get the rapid clicking of the fuel relay? If not, maybe there's a power feed issue? Might be worth trying disconnecting the injectors also.

 

Or, not.

--

Olly

[Reggit 0]

I really don't understant this car, tried to start it tonight and it fired straight to life.

 

It must have an intermittent electrical problem somewhere. Finding it could be a hard. I think the wiring diagram will be making an appearance this weekend to see if I can bottom it.

[jonrb 0]

Hope you get it all sorted out, Reggit.

 

Having exhausted my own knowledge on my own car, I can't really offer anything else other than moral support.

 

I presume you've checked all the usual suspects like coil pack, ignition switch, fuel pump, the little black box under the dash that has something to do with ignition (technical, eh?), fuel relay, ECU relay, ISV, etc.?

 

Have you thought of a health check on your alarm / immobiliser? Perhaps your alarm system is immobilising the car?

[fla 9]

I'm still stuck on something similar - VAGCOM hasnt picked up anything so I'l be calling an auto electrician to have a little look and hopefully diagnose the problem. Either that or get it towed to my local VW garage (NOT the dealer I hasten to add!)

[potatonet 0]

I say coil pack's, and/or sticky relay.

[jonrb 0]

Funnily enough I was talking to my indie today as to how he was doing my car and he says his investigation is leaning towards the coil pack.

This is a bit annoying, frankly, as I only replaced it with a brand new genuine VAG item about 15 months ago. :(

[Supercharged 2]

jonrb, most VAG parts come with a 2 year warranty so you should be ok!

[jonrb 0]

jonrb, most VAG parts come with a 2 year warranty so you should be ok!

I'll have to look into that. The invoice has a generic warranty declaration of 12 months / 12,000 miles (whichever comes sooner) and the work was done 24/12/03

I can't see any other mention of a warranty on the invoice, unfortunately. :(

[jonrb 0]

I've just had a call from my engineer.

 

Seems that the Engine Speed Sensor was indeed buggered, as was the "possibly good" one that Reggit gave me, and the Hall Effect Generator was also U/S. Both now replaced and running well.

 

The car has failed its MOT on "excessive play in the brake pedal" which is very likely the master cylinder. So that will probably need replacing too. :(

However, that is the only thing it has failed on.

 

The rear axle bushes were indeed completely shot as were the rear bump stops. They've now been replaced.

 

So the car is almost there. :)

[dr_mat 0]

The engine sensor has to be torqued to a very specific amount, iirc - it must be the precise distance from the flywheel teeth to pick up a nice strong signal.

[jonrb 0]

The engine sensor has to be torqued to a very specific amount, iirc - it must be the precise distance from the flywheel teeth to pick up a nice strong signal.

Now you tell me :D

 

Well, I'm sure my engineer tested that. He's pretty trustworthy.

[dr_mat 0]

Well I don't know what the correct torque IS, I just know it has to be fitted *right* ... :)