Nearly a 'rado owner........Focus RS anyone??

[Incredibilios 0]

After deciding a VR6 was definitely the car for me I've been to see a couple and I'm sure I've made the right choice. Got a couple of questions though: the one I like best has done about 85k and hasn't had the timing chain done - I know this may or may not need doing soon, but how do I know if it does? What happens if it goes whilst driving - does it destroy the engine like it would when the belt goes on other cars?

It's got a full service history too, but it only apears to have been serviced every 18 months to 2 years. I think this is because it's been serviced in accordance with the miles its done rather than time. Does anyone think that might be a problem?

 

The only problem I've got now is selling my Focus RS so I can buy one. Nearly tempted the chap with the VR to take it off me, but he's after something else. Shame really cos that would have been ideal.

 

Actually, don't suppose there's anyone out there who's interested, or knows anyone who's looking for an RS? If you could let me know it would be much appreciated. It's an 03 with 18k on the clock. Was gonna ask about £17k, but realistically I'd probably take nearer £16k.

If anyone wants to px a nice 1995ish VR too........

[VR6 0]

Nowhere near an expert on the engine, by any stretch of the imagination.

 

The chains/tensioner may require doing at that mileage. They very rarely actually break though. In fact, I've never heard of a post on here to suggest that they do.

 

It is advised to get them changed once they get noisy, but quietness does not always indicate 'good' chains/tensioner.

 

Good excuse to drop a new clutch in as well though :)

 

Can I ask, why the swap down from a Focus RS to a C?

[andy 0]

My Corrado has over 100k on the clock, no chain rattles at all, not thinking of doing it yet. 85k is nothing in my opinion.

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

'Cos Fords are poop?

Seems logical to me!

 

Good luck in your search!

 

P.S. I'm on 205k miles - original chains - no rattles. Quieter than others on here I have heard!

[Incredibilios 0]

I'm afraid my flat needs a fair bit or work doing that I've put off for far too long, and as I have no money and the RS is the only thing of value I own really, I'm afraid it has to go. I'm doing over 200 miles a week too, and I can't really justify putting so many miles on it - just reduces its value so much. Mainly use it on the motorway too, so can't really enjoy it as I should.

 

I've gone for the VR6 mainly cos they're (relatively) cheap and everyone I've asked who's had one couldn't reccomend them highly enough and regretted selling them! Just think it will still be quick, better for cruising down the motorway and hopefully pretty reliable.

[craigowl 0]

Andi said:

I'm on 205k miles - original chains

 

Blimey. Do you not get a bit twitchy when you start her up and get on the road Andy?

Why do some people keep on recommending new chains at 100k or even less?

Does anyone actually know of incidences of chain failure on here?

 

My C has done 100k but it is silent running and the previous owner did very long runs every summer to Spain/France and had all the services spot on schedule - including an oil service somewhere in France one year when he was on holiday. Consequently, I feel quite laid back about the chains.

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

Not a all, craigowl, she gets regular oil changes (4k ish) and runs like a peach...

 

Miles are irrelevant. Service is the key.

[samm_cvr6 0]

mines on 137k and original chains (I think) Can't agree more tho, I always let it warm right up aswell before reving it aswell as change oil about every 4k. good motorway cruiser aswell. at 70 you should get a good 35mpg if she running well.

[StormVR6 0]

I had my chains done 2 months back at Stealth, mine were not noisey and the car ran fine, but 100K does seem to be the general time to change them (Vince recommends this also). I believe the tensioner is the main cause for concern which can wear quite badly. I was fortunate in that my clutch did need replacing aswell so the package Stealth offer was a good one.

 

Regarding the Corrado mate I believe it is a far smoother handling car, as the RS does sometimes want to do it's own thing in and out of corners, which I find unsettling.

[Jimjam 0]

Does anyone actually know of incidences of chain failure on here?

 

I heard that the chains can stretch - anyone confirm this?

[dr_mat 0]

Not that this hasn't been discussed to death, but there are a few main issues with the timing chains:

 

- tensioner pad wears

basically this eventually reduces the ability to maintain tension in the chains when the pad eventually goes down to the metal, plus you've got rivets and/or metal backing plate riding on the chain, which can't be good.

 

- chain guides snap

this allows the chain to oscillate against the metal housings - again not good.

 

- chain stretch

just like any chain it will stretch very slightly over time. The tensioner is designed to take up any slack, but as many of us found out the tensioner is a weaker design than it ought to be.

 

- chain slipping a tooth

if the chain tension is not maintained (see above!), then it's more likely that in extreme engine speed change circumstances it can slip a tooth on one of the camshafts. This is bad. One tooth out will result in quite poor running, but won't destroy anything. Another tooth out will generally result in engine damage.

 

- chain snapping

very very occasionally this does happen. It may or may not be related to the above incidents, no-one really knows. In general the chains simply get noisy (tensioner worn out), and they will stay like this till they slip a tooth. It's very rare to hear of total failures (there are two chains, after all!), but it does happen.

 

Most people find that the tensioner pad needs work at between 90k and 250k miles, depending on the direction the wind is blowing and the size of your socks (no-one really knows why).

[craigowl 0]

StormVR6 said

(Vince recommends this also).

 

No disrespect to Vince who seems a wunderbar guy to have access to, but I would also recommend this if I was in the business.

 

dr_mat said:

in extreme engine speed change circumstances it can slip a tooth

I should be OK, I only drive at 30mph all the time :wink:

Seriously, though, thanks to the doktor for summarising all the info about this.

[dr_mat 0]

I don't think you can cause a tooth to slip in even pretty aggressive driving. Usually it's caused at startup or when bump-starting.

Unbelievably VW do not pre-tension the oil-filled tensioner when it's first fitted to the car, so on a fresh engine rebuild the first start is the most dangerous until tension can be built up by oil pressure!! Later engine designs have the tensioner oil pressurised, but that oil tension is backed up by a spring to eradicate this weakness.

[Flo 0]

and hopefully pretty reliable.

 

good luck with that :)

[olly elworthy 0]

focus rs is an awesome car, handling is excellent, you sure you want to be in and out of the bonnet all the time after owning such a relatively new car?

[StormVR6 0]

StormVR6 said

(Vince recommends this also).

 

No disrespect to Vince who seems a wunderbar guy to have access to, but I would also recommend this if I was in the business.

 

Of course you would, but Vince is not your typical VW git who would con his own mother, I honestly believe that he advices people correctly, and my belief of prevention is better than cure allows me to have the ultimate decision.

[andy 0]

I'm about to start my new project, a 96P VR6, with timing chain slippage, bought for a song.... If the chain has just slipped a tooth, could I in theory reset the timing chain and simply replace the tensioner and guide parts? Is it just the upper chain tensioner parts that wear significantly or is the lower tensioner just as much of a problem?

[Guest]

Just to add my tuppence worth..

 

I called into Stealth a few weeks ago and Vince had a quick look over / listen and said chain seemed fine (at 113k). Recommended it was reviewed every 5k.

 

She's going in weekend after next for engine mountings and aux belt etc and a 'proper' look over so fingers crossed he wont anything major.

[Henny 0]

andy, yup, as long as pistons haven't met valves then there won't be any damage... it's only if you go more than one tooth, or rev the knackers off it with it one tooth out, that you'll end up with valve/piston contact and mechanical damage...

 

A compression test will tell you that straight away... 8)

[andy 0]

Henny, surely a compression test will still read low if the valve timing is out though.

[craigowl 0]

Stormvr6 said

but Vince is not your typical VW git who would con his own mother, I honestly believe that he advices people correctly, and my belief of prevention is better than cure allows me to have the ultimate decision.

Yup - I believe you, and I would go to him from what I've heard on here.

[Incredibilios 0]

So, no-one wants the RS then? Damn.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

So, no-one wants the RS then? Damn.

 

I'd love it. I'll give you my VR6 plus a book token and a Mars Bar? :lol:

 

What's the torque steer like on them as I hear it's quite a battle behind the wheel of one of those things?! I think they're cool, a return to Ford's brutal and outrageous machinery of old 8)

[samm_cvr6 0]

I'll swap my vr too! I know a lot of people slag off the rs but I think it's cool and no doubt it would beat a vr round a track, but I guess that doesn't make it better.

[Incredibilios 0]

kevhaywire said:

 

I'd love it. I'll give you my VR6 plus a book token and a Mars Bar?

LOL! Actually, that probably amounts to similar to what the ford dealer offered me for it when I popped in there the other day...... :evil:

 

The torque steer is nowhere near as bad as it was made out to be (especially by EVO). On A roads and motorways it's absolutely fine (it was MUCH worse on my old AX GT!), and on B roads it's......interesting - sometimes I feel like I could do with third hand to change gear with, but that's only when I'm absolutely nailing it. General, safe road driving is not a problem. So many people slag the RS off saying it's undrivable without ever having driven one, and that really gets my goat! :mad:

I agree that it's cool - it just looks really mean, and I love the fact that it get loads of looks too. Had a couple of thumbs up from people in 911's and TVR's, which was nice! On the downside though, I'm amazingly paranoid about parking it anywhere other than my garage!

 

 

samm_cvr6 said:

 

I'll swap my vr too!

sigh.......if only I could believe you! Well, you know how to contact me...

 

 

olly elworthy said:

focus rs is an awesome car, handling is excellent, you sure you want to be in and out of the bonnet all the time after owning such a relatively new car?

Ok right, can someone clear this up for me? The reason I want a VR is obviously firstly cos they're quite fast, engine sounds good and cost much less than I should get for my RS (need the cash!), but a BIG reason is that VW's from the 80s/90s have an awseome reputation for reliability (I know more recent models haven't really maintained this). I know it's gonna be about 10 years old, but I thought if I picked up a good example it'd pretty much be spot on for a good few years. Obviously I'd get it serviced and maintained properly, but I'm no mechanic, so I don't want to be regularly taking it to the garage and paying out to get things fixed all the time. Is this really what VR ownership is gonna be like?!

 

I have actually seen a quality Supra SZ on an importers website for about 5k - very tempted but I'm slightly nervous about paying out for a 10 year old car I haven't actually seen in the flesh, and about the importing costs. The site doesn't make the costs black and white, and I'm sure it would all add up and cost bucks more that it seems!