The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[VR6Joni 0]

I didn't even know you could get these, I hate to say it but that's got to be ODB1. If it took 2 and a half months I'd just be blanking it off if I was you.

[Rams 0]

The only place I could get one was CCR in Denmark. You are right, it's for an obd1 but he now says that's the only one they do.

 

It wasn't cheap either! I called one of the tuning companies and they wanted a lot of money to make one.

 

If someone knows where I can find one I could always change it later and sell mine on.

 

Devilsown have supplied me with the adaptor for the nozzle to work with the silicone inlet pipe. I thought I might be able to use that spout but I will just have to blank it off.

 

Car goes in tomorrow to be stripped. Not going to rush it, will take time and make sure all is well. I'm still waiting for the larger pulley to arrive from CCR and he says its posted but will see when it turns up?? The 80 mm pulley I have might just be too much.

 

The original plan was to use the BV head but after having it inspected, it's a standard head and as I wanted to eventually change the bottom end, I'm going to just do both later on and get the charger installed to my standard engine with the 263's and arp head and rod bolts and spacer gasket. I probably won't fit the other gearbox I have with Quaife and just pull the engine out and do it in one go.

 

Methanol kit will be fitted but without the fuse and we will remove the injectors and re grease them so when it goes to Vince he will find it easy to get them out as they can be hard to remove. Then the green tops can go in when I arrive.

 

Bit nervous to drive all that way without everything working together but hopefully she will drive ok till it's all finished and mapped.

 

When I told Vince it was OBD2, he mentioned something about a speed signal issue but I don't recall seeing this when I have plugged her in before? Maybe it's got something to do with the different Maf I will be using or how he tunes it?

 

I will snap as many pictures as possible which may help some others

[Rams 0]

Please help me....

 

I have made the hole larger to accommodate the pipework from charger down through the carbon canister location which would have the TT 4 inch Maf which reads flow in both directions, then the large air filter which would sit in the front bumper /driver side.

 

Speaking to Vince just now he told me that I need to get the MAF away from the charger otherwise I will have problems.

 

So now what do I do?

 

Extend the MAF wiring and use the TT maf still but I don't think there's any space for the large filter which obviously is sized for the larger MAF. Or do I know need to use my standard existing 3 inch maf so it can work with a smaller filter if there's space?

 

I was always concerned about my first approach to the front bumper location in case a puddle splashed into filter/maf anyway.

 

Any help from you guys much appreciated.

 

Rams

Edited March 11, 2013 by Rams

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You need to drop the MAF into the hole with a 90 degree elbow and fit a filter onto the end of it. Make sure you leave the air straightner on the MAF or the turbulence of the S/C will cause fuelling headaches. Yep, you'll need to extend the MAF wiring to suit.

[Rams 0]

This is how Bobby had it installed and what I was trying to replicate. From what Vince is saying, this setup will cause me problems. Down to the proximity of the MAF and the charger. I do now recall Bobby saying it wasn't a perfect solution and really if he located the MAF it may run better? Hopefully he can jump in on the conversation.

 

The charger has a pipe that has a 90 degree bend, this is why I made the hole bigger as the size of pipe wouldn't fit through the CC hole. The TT Maf is then horizontal more or less and the filter on the end.

 

I'm not sure yet how the BOV Riggs up, I'm back with the car on Wednesday and once I know where my pipework is going I can probably work it out. I've also got the Stealth oil catch tank and I think that's all quite straight forward. Have been reading up

 

I'm not fully understanding your reply my friend, do you think this setup will be ok?

[Rams 0]

Also, when I went to obd2 I did not change the fuel pressure regulator, I kept the 4 bar obd1 on. Do I need to uprate the fuel reg to a performance style type one? Bobby ran a different regulator but then again, he had a short runner etc so I was never sure if I can just use what I have?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That's pretty much all you can do with the superchargers to be honest mate. There isn't really anywhere else the MAF can go as it has to be before the charger and far enough away as to not cause turbulence. Think of a whirlpool with a 'hole' in the middle. That's what the MAF will see if it's too close to the charger, i.e. all the air flow goes to the edges of the MAF housing and not through the middle where it's expected.

 

You'll be fine with a 4 bar regulator, unless Vince feels the need to drop it to 3 bar from a mapping perspective.

[Craig 0]

Sent you some pics rams of my install but as Kev has said you need to try and get the maf as far from the charger as possible to eliminate maf turbulence at low rpm. The charger drawing in air causes the turbulence and with the maf too close it doesn't give it enough pipework for the air to be a straight flow over the maf, so the maf can't get a clear signal because of the turbulent air and thus gives you a bit of an erratic idle.

 

As said I've extended my maf to the passenger wing in front of the wheel and you've seen my idle is perfect, no turbulence at all and idles as if it was from the factory. The draw of the charger inlet has a metre of hose to suck through so the air being pulled through the maf is in a straight flow over the maf sensor.

 

Having the filter in the wing might work mate but I decided I didn't want to take the risk, also my filter was too Close to the floor and now it sits horizontal and I have a shield in front of it to protect from road splashes and I'm much more confident driving in the rain :)

[Rams 0]

Thanks chaps, going to head down to the car tomorrow as the new drive belt has arrived and have a good look at relocating the MAF.

 

Appreciate your replies. I really have learned so much and still much more to learn.

 

Thanks for the pictures you sent me Craig, big help.

Edited March 11, 2013 by Rams

[Rams 0]

If I relocate the MAF and filter away from the charger to passenger side, do I just use my 3 inch MAF and buy a suitable filter or is it more beneficial for me to run the larger 4 inch MAF?

 

The 4 inch pipe would probably be too big to run under the bumper to the other side...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yep, 4" across there will be a pain. You could just use 3" piping and and use a 3>4" silicon joiner at the MAF.

[Rams 0]

Thank you chief, in simple terms, what are the benefits of the larger MAF? More air flow adjustment? Having a reducer on the extra long pipework, are there disadvantages using adapters or should one be looking for an equal track length/termination? Ie not stepping sizes.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

3" tubing + a 4" MAF will be fine. It's only the MAF sensor that needs to be 4".

 

The reason for this is because it operates over a 0 - 5V range. On a nasp VR6, a healthy MAF will show ~ 1.2V at idle and ~ 4.5V at WOT.

 

When you force feed a VR6, the MAF voltage exceeds 5V when in boost. Even part throttle boost can tip it over 5V.

 

The problem isn't so much the MAF exceeding 5V, it is after all converting the air it sees to a voltage output, but the ECU is only capable of accepting a maximum of 5V. If it sees more than that, it shuts down the injectors as it thinks the MAF has short circuited.

 

It's been a problem for as long as boosted VR6s have been around. OEs get round it by either recalibrating the ECU to suit, or fitting a larger MAF housing to compensate.

 

What a larger MAF does is, in effect, widen the air channel over the sensor to give it more flow. Jumping up to a 4" MAF from the standard 3" sees a 33% increase in flow. This is enough to stop it exceeding 5V.

 

In an ideal world, the ECU would handle say, 0 - 10V, but we can't have everything!

[Rams 0]

I took that all in, perfectly explained. Most grateful.

 

I should call you sir really, what does WOT stand for? Educate me please.

 

A punt would suggest Wide open something??

 

Cheers

[Craig 0]

Throttle ;)

[Rams 0]

Throttle ;)

 

I'm a plonker

[Rams 0]

Could someone kindly post the belt route for the charged vr6 please?

[Rams 0]

Chaps, please help, I'm at the workshop fitting the charger and need to know if the Forge dump valve/recirc valve plumbs into the fuel reg pipe and make a t piece?

 

Nearly there now!!

[MattPc 0]

Just posted in your other thread, i'll post here aswell, my recirculating valve was plumbed into the fuel reg pipe via a t-piece from the manifold.

 

Matt

[GTi.Si 0]

On mine I took one of the green caps off the servo hose and fitted my DV vaccum hose to that. Its a ready made Tee for you.

[Rams 0]

That's a much better way really, saves the longer pipe travelling from the DV all the way to the front reg. I will re locate it. Cheers

[Madjackal 0]

1, will a flowed and ported TB make any difference to a supercharged vr? My previous experience on a naturally aspirated one was improved throttle response over speed or acceleration. im also running 263 cams and a schrick manifold.

 

2, long ago someone on here would take your old t/b off your hands and for a fee would provide you with a flowed/ported one. I forget who it was though?

 

cheers

[Kevin Bacon 5]

1. No

2. [email protected]

[Hofmiester 10]

Hi Folks,

So I bought a V9 kit for my car, a little hasty and now realised that the kit is not 100% complete for my car. Luckily most of the hard to find bits are there but I am really struggling to work out the NON AC belt/idler pulley set up and need some help.

 

The VF instructions contain this diagram for the AC cars only and no info on the non AC. From pictures that I got from another memeber (Mattpc) I've been able to come up with to guesses as to how the belt and idler would work. Can anyone tell me if any of these are right please?

 

[ATTACH]74541[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]74542[/ATTACH]

 

Unfortunately the non AC idler is no longer made so we're going to have to fabricate it and then is my next big hassle, this is a long shot but if anyone knows the dimensions it would be a massive help.

 

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[n3p 3]

My car is going to Stealth on Monday to have the Vortech V1 stage 2 kit fitted (been waiting a long time!). Couple of questions:

 

I spoke to them earlier in the week and was told that they had a set of Schimmel 263 cams on the shelf. Naturally I had to have them! Anyone know if it compliments a charged VR well, and if I can expect a bit more low down grunt?

 

I am not sure where Stealth will route the cone filter, google suggests that most people put it down in the wing. My car has a Ram Air filter which is fecking huge, and I am guessing that this won't fit (I could be wrong?). What is the best route to take in terms of intake?

 

Cheers