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g60greeny

g60 engine stalling

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this started yesterday at first i thought it was just me stalling at a junction anyway she fired straight back up,i didn't think twice about it untill i went to pick my gf up from work,same again rolling upto the traffic lights the engine stalled this time she struggled to fire back up,i took her out today to fill her up just pulling out of the petrol station cut out, then again at the bottom of my street both times struggling to fire her back up ended up putting her in gear then starting up when she stalls i'm sure i can smell fuel?any ideas?

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what sort of weather was it at the time? Bad electrical connections can be agrevated in cold moist weather.

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brake/carb cleaner also try the old blue temp test (swap its plug to the black sender on the front of the block mine stalled when it went)

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just put the isv back on,thought i'd check around the engine,when i felt behind the t/bodie i noticed one of the thin pipes that connect to the back was split(the bottom of the two)could this cause anything to go wrong?

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i unplugged the blue temp sensor earlier while the engine was running the revs dropped to about 500 is that good
Sounds okay to me.

 

 

The split pipe is likely to be your stalling problem.

 

 

 

FYI - neat petrol or carb cleaner is the best thing to soak & clean the ISV with - brake cleaner evaporates too quickly.

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There are 2 vacuum hoses at the rear of the TB (when standing in front of the engine bay). One hose leads to the ECU, and signals the boost level,. If this hose has a leak, the ECU cannot accurately determine the pressure in the air intake section, i.e. in the TB.

 

The other hose leads to the carbon canister valve.

 

Tempest

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what would happen if the hose from t body to carbon cannister was a little dodgy?

 

mine looks a bit frayed where it goes onto t body.

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what would happen if the hose from t body to carbon cannister was a little dodgy?
The result would be that the inlet manifold would suck air in through the leaking pipe. Not exactly sure what effect this would have but I doubt it would be advantageous.

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Vacuum hose between inlet manifold & fuel pressure regulator (FPR).

 

Any leaks here are a major problem & pipe should be renewed immediately. In an extreme situation, leaks here could cause the engine to run lean & melt one of your pistons !

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shit!!!!!do i have to use the same kind of hose or could i just go to the local bullseye or halfords and get anything?will the length make a difference(if its shorter than the original)

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It's a thick rubber vacuum hose, reinforced with fabric. Don't use the non-reinforced type - this will distort under vacuum pressure.

 

More or less the same length will do, exact length isn't critical but make sure it's not so short as to get creased. Hose is usually sold by the meter.

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Riley, you'd get a vacuum leak which would make the car run like crap when not at idle, possibly giving you intermittent power delivery problems... sound familiar?!? :|

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Riley, you'd get a vacuum leak which would make the car run like crap when not at idle, possibly giving you intermittent power delivery problems... sound familiar?!? :|

 

ahh,maybe the culprit then!

 

when i say dodgy,its just that the outer fabric stuff has worn off,the inner rubber bit does look ok but i think ill replace it!

 

does it have to be a certain length?

 

cheers henny/stevemac.

 

edit for pic:1130mm according to etka.

i think mines a lot shorter than that!

 

i notice how the ecu hose is diffarent lengths for diffarent chassis numbers too :? (not shown in the part numbers but n0.23 on pic)

 

and how come it shows loads of diffarent bends/parts? for the ecu hose:?

 

neil.

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Riley just junk the whole carbon cannister setup... much easier to do... ;)

 

Daz tends to do this as soon as he looks at a G60 these days! :lol:

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