Jump to content
Stan 24v

Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

Recommended Posts

Ok guys,

 

Extremely naffed off!

 

With the setup I currently have, both Mark at SWICT and Vince at Stealth have had cars in and they all throw a cam position sensor fault. The engine runs fine, idles fine and revs fine, in fact there's no signs of a problem, until you dyno them and get ~190bhp. Conveniently expensive 12v Vr6 then!

 

and now the solution, I have been advised either I source a Mk5 ECU, loom and pedal, or a Mk4 engine. I am not excited about either, if anyone has any ideas I would really appreciate it!

 

So to reiterate for all the newbies thinking about tackling this conversion:

 

Stick with MK4 stuff or MK5 stuff, Don't mix and match or feel the pain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry to hear that, what mix of bits do you have then? I thought the mk4 used dbw throttle like the mk5 anyway. Which part of the loom do you need? I have a mk5 ecu (really wanted to keep it but if your desperate?)

 

fyi, my cam sensors where plugged wrong way around and i never noticed any issues whilst driving! maybe your issue too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing's plugged in yet sam, this is the initial call with a few questions and to agree on work etc.

 

Once I set the scene for Mark that's when he dropped the bombshell. Basically my setup as follows:

 

Mk5 BUB 3.2 24v

Mk4 Looms

Mk4 ECU

Mk4 MAF

MK4 Fuel Rail

Mk4 Ancillaries

Mk4 Pedal

 

So yeah all Mk4 really..... And the problem lies with the cam sensor being of inverted values between the mk4 and 5, so 0 when the other would read 1 and vice versa. Apparently it's a sod to change? The wheel has to be swapped and they both said only a new head would achieve that?

 

Thanks Sam but I'd then still have to source a loom and pedal, i mean it would really help but the loom is like hens teeth isn't it?

 

*Edit oh and it would be both engine to ECU and ECU to fusebox looms!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What a pain in the arse. Easiest solution will be to source a MK5 ECU (Sam's perhaps) and then adapt the MK4 loom. I've compared MK4 and MK5 engine side looms and as I say, the only physical difference I've seen is the exhaust solenoid plug. Just depends if the Pedal side loom differs between MK4 and MK5 but I've been told MK4 pedals work with MK5 throttles.

 

See, standalones are the way forward! Complete freedom from all this nonsense :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looms are, or at least were affordable from the dealers, I bought a brand new engine loom from audi for 160 iirc pedals, arent too hard to get a hold of and I think they dont have to be r32 or audi 3.2 spec.

 

I bought the the whole car body loom from ebay germany for around 200.

 

all the best mate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not any more Sam. Engine side looms had gone up to £350+VAT when I enquired last year.

 

I use a standard 4Motion pedal, which was £45+VAT last year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sheet, thats ramped up a bit. Although I do remember it depended on the model ordered for.

 

however iirc the cheapest ie mine was 160 but the other was about 1300 so this price hike does see like "inflation" but worth trying and checking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was for a MK5 R32 from VW, a BDB loom from Audi might have been a bit cheaper, not sure. And it was for the injectors, cam sensors, MAF, lambdas etc etc. The other loom that connects the pedal etc to the ECU even more money but has far fewer connectors on it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like the price has gone up, maybe due to all of these conversions lol. Looks like I got there in early enough. Maybe someone has links with VAG germany, they may be better priced?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys. As both swict and stealth have opted out of helping me with the loom, I did consider adapting my mk4 loom and using a pedal and ecu from the mk5. I might as well then do all the necessary to adapt it into my car and only use swict to tweak the ecu! Sam in that case, I would love it if you could help me with an ecu, just name your terms!

 

Looks like this will be the approach then, mk4 loom with mk5 ecu and pedals. It's only wires in between after all and vince has promised me the pin outs for the mk5 ecu in an email so fingers crossed.

 

Your help is gratefully received guys, I was so stressed after hearing this all!

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

give me a chance to work out if I can sell it. I wanted to keep it incase the other one popped or something. If I did want to let it go I would want what I paid for it which I think was 250pounds (my pound sign isnt working on the forum for some reason). not sure what the going price of these are but like I said just want what I paid back.

 

Having looked on ebay, there is one already for sale, you would have to check its the right one and I can look up my ecu number if that helps?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-8P-3-2-V6-Engine-Control-ECU-/130676211730?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e6ce8c012#ht_996wt_954

 

Anychance you could forward the pin outs when/if you get them? Might put the details on the guide too.

 

Is DBW essential? I've seen some do throttle conversions but I decided to use the engine as it was supposed to. no idea of the pros cons for a retro conversion

 

---------- Post added at 6:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:05 PM ----------

 

heres another one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-Coupe-3-2-V6-Quattro-250PK-S-tronic-ECU-8j0-907-115N-/320901527586?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab738b822#ht_522wt_1140

 

looks like they are cheaper these days. :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't worry you keep hold of yours, I was given a part number by vince to look for so ill get that one. Once I get the pin outs ill send them across no problem.

 

Looks like I'll be doing this wiring myself then! Anyone got a guide for what to splice when I'm happy to adapt the loom to my car?

 

Vince was saying it's fairly straight forward, just working out what sensor does what and which part of the car needs the info, so one water temp sensor is the old plug and feeds the clocks, while the other stays mk5 and feeds the ecu and so on.

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that would be great please! If I can get an idea of what was done it would really help. Did you get SWICT to do it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a guy called matt who runs a company called Only charged Dubs, O.C.D is doing it, he mainly specializes in g60's..

 

those of you that have already done the 24v conversion, in regards to the oil temp and pressure senders in the 12v vr6 oil filter houseing,

the 24v only has one sender in its filter houseing, what does that one sender do?

{gives info to ecu which would then give that info on the mk4 dash/mfa ?}

 

i'll need to use them 12v's senders or its wireing to keep the oil light from comming on in the dash and to retain the temp on the MFA,

but that one sender on the 24v housing im guessing i dont need it?? cheers

Edited by VW_OwneR_85

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can possibly help with this;

 

I've been speaking with the guys who do the loom conversion. Basically most of the modern wiring does, as you say, receive information from the ECU so shares information basically. Our old engines however have a sensor to pretty much feed each that requires it, on the oil filter housing I believe there's an oil temp sensor, and a high pressure switch and low pressure switch. The high and low feed the alarm on the dash while the temp feeds the MFA.

 

For both new and old I don't think they require any oil data for the ECU, so it's just a case of keeping all 3 if you're sticking with the old clocks. I would await confirmation from others on this but I hope this helps.

 

I'm going to start a thread in the engine bay section in the hopes I can catch more people's attention regarding my predicament. This topic seems a lot more quiet than the forums themselves.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

/\ Yep, 100% correct :D

 

On the R32 oil filter housing, screw one of the 12V pressure senders into the spare port on the front and the other one into the top port where the R32 sensor normally lives. If you want oil temp for the MFA as well, you just need an M10x1x3 (i.e. 1 M10x1 male thread and 2 M10x1 female) Tee to split the top port 2 ways. Simples!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cool cheers, so basiclay the 4mo ecu doesnt need to know oil temp etc.. cant wait to get stuck in with this swap, stripped off the 24v oil sump today to clean it out and re seal it, good job i did as it seems to have a few tiny cracks on the bottom, looking on the outside looks like my sumps had a hard life, deep scores every where!

so im on the hunt for another..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get an R32 sump and pump mate. You will thank me :D 4Mo sumps sit too close to the ground in Corrados / Mk2s / Mk3s etc.

 

No the ECU doesn't give two schitts about Oil temp :D The oil info for the longlife servcing and temp for the clocks comes from the sump sensor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome cheers for that,

 

you wouldnt happen to know roughly how much the r32 oil pump is? none listed on ebay or euro carparts,

Edited by VW_OwneR_85

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I bought both in 2008, the sump was ~ £90+VAT and the pump was ~ £150+VAT.

 

It's not a cheap conversion, but I do recommend it. As well as giving loads more ground clearance, it's also baffled. The 4Mo one isn't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

normaly idd be up for splashing out that kind of money for this sort of thing, my budgets way tighter then that tho, iv just messaged a few breakers so were see what they got, cheers.

 

found this,http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-3-2-V6-R32-Oil-Sump-Part-number-021-103-603-Q-/320906693881?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab7878cf9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kev, any idea of the wiring setup for the sump sensor? Been wanting to wire into this for some time now but cant find any details.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
normaly idd be up for splashing out that kind of money for this sort of thing, my budgets way tighter then that tho, iv just messaged a few breakers so were see what they got, cheers.

 

found this,http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-TT-3-2-V6-R32-Oil-Sump-Part-number-021-103-603-Q-/320906693881?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab7878cf9

 

That's not an R32 sump mate. Have a search of the forum as there's pics of it on here.

 

Kev, any idea of the wiring setup for the sump sensor? Been wanting to wire into this for some time now but cant find any details.

 

You can only use the info from the sump sensor with MK5 clocks unfortunately. The sump sensor and some info from the engine ECU determine when the oil needs to be changed. I was going to look into which one of the pins is a temp signal (cause the MK5 has oil temp on the MFA if you dig around for it) but I gave up and just used the VR6 sender instead!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...