Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[andyvlw 0]

Bigpants Baby

 

Possibly looking to go down the 24v route, as I need a new project the VR's been sitting in the drive looking sad for the past 10 months, since I bought a Golf 4 motion. How many miles on the Bora, could you PM me with some details.

 

Andy

[bigpants baby 0]

pm you

[cralstc 0]

Hey all decided that i will be going down this route. Will show loads of PICS!!! I promise i will have loads of questions as well. I just bought a 3.2 v6 Audi engine from an A3. What caused this decision?

 

Well a blown head gasket to be honest and while a shop trying to source one I noticed they had a rear ended A3 sportsback. So out of courisousity i went to have a look and fell in love!!!! When I also found out that it had only 25,000kms, I knew it was a bargain!!!!

 

Now here is the first question. Will I be able to supercharge it, as i have not been able to find any kit readily available for it? For give me for sounding stupid but will the R32 kits fit? The reason I ask is because the R32 produces 225bhp (I think) and the audi produced 250bhp.

 

Cheers

[Stan 24v 0]

Yes the R32 kit will fit, its the same engine, and they both kick out between 240 - 250 BHP standard.

 

http://www.eiptuning.com/

[Dutch24V 0]

Can somebody please tell me what the black box things are that are attached to the fuse box? (pic fusebox1) They look like connectors to join several wires together, black, green and blue.

I cannot find these on any wiring diagrams and was wondering what they are and what the consequences would be of connecting them up the wrong way?

 

I have connected the 4motion brake switch, but cannot find the connector for the clutch switch. The 4 motion wiring diagram shows them to be a blue/black and a red/white wire, but I only seem to have red/white and a red wires left over (pic fusebox2).

 

Coxylaaad, if you’re still about any ideas?

 

I have also just finshed charging the new battery ready to connect it up for the first time. It's a Deka AGM battery (same as a Braille basically). 270 CCA but very small :)

I hope she starts, but first time of trying after all this work I'm a little sceptical. I'll post up results later...

 

R,

Dutch

[CoxyLaad 0]

now then Dutch, sorry for the late reply, mega busy at the moment.

 

pic1: those things on the top dont ring any bells to me mate, the thing I was referring to was the power take off on the right hand side top of the fuesboard. Mind my memory is utter pig swill, and as I currently dont have my car i cant go and confirm this. I may be seeing it tomorrow so I will have a check for you.

 

pic 2: I am certain those are the clutch switch lines - you should be able to trace them straight up to one of the coloured plugs that pass through the bulkhead. I cant remember which colour plug it goes through but if you look on the wiring diagrams I sent you it should say. I have them somewhere, I will also try and dig those out.

 

pic 3: The battery on me bikes bigger than that! What happens if it doesn't fire up first time? get out and jump start it? lol

[Dutch24V 0]

Cheers meneer Coxylaad :)

 

I will check the wires then and see where they go. From memory they do go to one of those connectors you mention, just not sure which one. With the ignition on or off though they both carry +/- 5 volt. Is that right?

 

I have connected the battery and all was ok. No fires or such, which was nice.

There seems to be a small problem though as fuse box has power all the time. The windows work etc. even with the key out of the ignition. If I connect up vag-com the green light comes on on the odb connector, but when I switch the ignition on it goes off and vag-com subsequently tells me the cable is not connected :(

Also, with the key out of the ignition, when I connect the battery the TB starts trying to align itself so the ecu also has power. It would seem the x switched circuit has power when the ignition is off, and looses power when the ignition is on :? Maybe I’ve connected something thing the wrong way round :)

 

I'm going to trace the ignition wires over the coming weekend and try and figure out what’s going on, but as the ecu looses power when the ignition is on, the fuel pump doesn't work so hence I cannot even try to start her :(

 

If I get no joy I'll bell you to see if you can figure it out :)

 

Dutch

[bigpants baby 0]

Can somebody please tell me what the black box things are that are attached to the fuse box? (pic fusebox1) They look like connectors to join several wires together, black, green and blue.

I cannot find these on any wiring diagrams and was wondering what they are and what the consequences would be of connecting them up the wrong way?

 

I have connected the 4motion brake switch, but cannot find the connector for the clutch switch. The 4 motion wiring diagram shows them to be a blue/black and a red/white wire, but I only seem to have red/white and a red wires left over (pic fusebox2).

 

Coxylaaad, if you’re still about any ideas?

 

I have also just finshed charging the new battery ready to connect it up for the first time. It's a Deka AGM battery (same as a Braille basically). 270 CCA but very small :)

I hope she starts, but first time of trying after all this work I'm a little sceptical. I'll post up results later...

 

R,

Dutch

I reckon there the clutch switch wires,check it out to where its suppose to go (T121/39) on pin 39 of the ecu

[CoxyLaad 0]

yeah definately sounds like the clutch switch wiring. although checking the ecu pins is going to be a nightmare, just find out which colour block it goes in and check the diagrams.

 

Interesting setup you have there with your ignition!

 

Only thing I can think of is that you have an earth fault somewhere in the igntion wiring and its pulling the current though the ecu power relay, or something like that

[Dutch24V 0]

OK, thanks again guys.

 

I will see what I can find over the weekend. Hopefuly something simple :)

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

Well, I've investigated further today and found the following.

 

All the electrics work fine and as and when expected if I disconnect the white engine harness connector shown in pic1. If I connect this connector though the fun begins.

Without this conector connected though the TB does nothing so that would imply, to me at least, that the ecu gets it's power from this connector?

 

If I connect the battery with this connector connected all is good initially. The windows don't work etc. When I turn the ignition on, again no surprises, the windows work etc, but when I turn the ignition back off then the windows remain active etc. and the handbrake light on the dash stays on but burns very dimly.

 

The connector in pic1 has only one wire plugged into it, and this wire runs to the mkiv relay panel (see pic2 & 3). You can see in pic2 a grey wire that also runs up into the same part of the loom as the black wire from the connector in pic1. This grey wire is joined to a green wire shown in pic4. What is this grey/green wire and should it be connected to anything??

 

Pic5 shows the mkiv relay panel with 2 relays and several fuses. Do I have all the relays I need? The large one is the fuel pump relay, but what is the smaller one?

 

I think if I can sort this problem out then maybe the fuel pump will work and I can try and start her, but I'm now stuck :(

I still have no idea what those little black boxes that attach to the fuse box are for either?

 

Coxylaaad, do you still have those wiring diagrams? If so can you pm them to me please?

 

Have you got your car back yet btw?

 

Cheers,

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

After a successful weekend everything seems to be working fine now except for the fuel pump.

 

I've disconnected the ignition coils and she turns over fine. All the electrics are also good, the TB opens with the accelerator pedal so the ecu seems to be working fine too, it's just the damn fuel pump to fix.

 

I've tried removing the fuel pump relay in the mkiv relay panel and tested the voltage across the two large pins. ~9.9 volts to one pin and 0.80 to the other :? Not sure if this is good, but there's obviously power to the repay panel where the fuel pump relay sits anyhow.

 

If I short these two pins with a wire and the ignition on but not cranking the engine the fuel pump still does nothing though?

 

I'm beginning to suspect the alarm may be involved, but the company that installed it say they didn

[Stan 24v 0]

Are you getting voltage to the fuel pump? Worth a check mate, if so then your pump may be knackered, if not then you have an O/C somewhere.

[double-6s 0]

Mate just go down the coffeeshop, come home and roll a huge joint :)

 

It won't help sort it out, but you won't care for a while :)

[Dutch24V 0]

Stan, not sure mate tbh. I'm going to test the pump and wiring this weekenk. I hope it is as simple as that :)

 

Will, I do that every night mate :) Must have speant nearly 14 months 'not caring' now :D

 

Dutch

[gc 0]

Have any of you run into issues with the ECU not allowing the engine to go beyond 4000 rpm unless the mkIV ABS module is present? I am in the process of gathering the parts to do this swap and have seen this problem mentioned a few times on VWVortex, (I'm not sure if this is only a problem on US/Canadian versions of the 24v ECU). I was under the impression that the ECU could be recoded so that it assumed that ABS was not an available option using VAG-COM, but have not been able to get anyone to confirm that this works. If anyone knows anything about this I'd greatly appreciate the help.

[Stan 24v 0]

No problems here mate, and Ive been running it well over a year now.

[bigpants baby 0]

Have any of you run into issues with the ECU not allowing the engine to go beyond 4000 rpm unless the mkIV ABS module is present? I am in the process of gathering the parts to do this swap and have seen this problem mentioned a few times on VWVortex, (I'm not sure if this is only a problem on US/Canadian versions of the 24v ECU). I was under the impression that the ECU could be recoded so that it assumed that ABS was not an available option using VAG-COM, but have not been able to get anyone to confirm that this works. If anyone knows anything about this I'd greatly appreciate the help.

 

 

Right,my problem is the engine management light keeps coming on,when fault finding with vag-com its saying about the abs not being present.

If tried to change the soft coding on the engine side of vag-com,but it wont let me change it.

My r32 revs freely past 4k revs,i dont think the abs problem is affecting performance.

So Ive heard there is a company called custom codes that can sort this abs problem out?

[Dutch24V 0]

Mine doesn't rev full stop at the moment :)

 

I think this maybe only for the r32 engine, not the 2.8 24v. I've heard it can be removed on various vortex threads too, but not sure by whom in the UK. Best bet would be Custom Code I'd imagine.

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

Right,my problem is the engine management light...

 

Engine management light? Have you fitted the mkiv clocks then? I'm using the C clocks so no annoying light :)

 

Dutch

[Stan 24v 0]

I have Custom-Code in mine, maybe that is why it works??? And has 30 extra horses :lol:

[bigpants baby 0]

Right,my problem is the engine management light...

 

Engine management light? Have you fitted the mkiv clocks then? I'm using the C clocks so no annoying light :)

 

Dutch

 

There is that,but how can you tell when somethings wrong apart from keep plugging in vagcom

[Dutch24V 0]

Good point, but guess it's no different to any pre-obd2 car. I will know there's a problem when it stops working or drives badly, then just plug in vag-com :)

 

Dutch

[gc 0]

Right,my problem is the engine management light keeps coming on,when fault finding with vag-com its saying about the abs not being present.

If tried to change the soft coding on the engine side of vag-com,but it wont let me change it.

My r32 revs freely past 4k revs,i dont think the abs problem is affecting performance.

So Ive heard there is a company called custom codes that can sort this abs problem out?

 

Thanks, I was afraid recoding the ECU might not work. I'll try and get hold of Custom Codes, but since I'm in the States their software might not work for me.

[Stan 24v 0]

They dont have an agent in the USA, but it may be worth contacting them:

 

http://www.custom-code.co.uk/

 

http://www.custom-code.co.uk/index.php? ... &Itemid=40