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MNuTz

1.8T Engine conversion cost

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conversions aren't difficult

 

...and words are cheap!

 

He actually quite spot on tho, conversions arent too tricky as long as you plan it out and use you head. Im also assuming you will have some engineering savvy (should go without saying, shouldnt buy a rad unless you know how to weild a spanner :lol: )

 

Kev, Rossco, have you two done one yet? :lol:

 

G60Greeny - I am always willing to do work for money :)

 

Jay

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Kev, Rossco, have you two done one yet? :lol:

 

Done what, a conversion or a 20VT conversion?

 

No to the latter and yes, several thanks, to the former.

 

I did a MK1 16V conversion myself with rear 16V discs, G60 front brakes, 16V MC & servo etc etc, all done myself. I've done a 16V into 8V, MK2. I've fitted a 1750TC engine into a 1300 Allegro shell. I've fitted a Metro turbo engine into 1.0L shell. I helped put a Capri 2.8 V6 into a Cortina 1600. I've done a 24V E36 2.5 into E30 325 (12V)....and so on. I wouldn't struggle with a 20VT into a Rado (or a 24V for that matter) at all, just so long as I have all the tools and wiring diagrams to hand....and a large garage.

 

They were the days when I had A) the space, B) alternative transport and C) more inclination and enthusiasm to get dirty.

 

That was all 10+ years ago. I don't have a garage now and I earn enough to not need to do it myself anymore, but I do feck about with the car when I can be arsed, such as fitting chargers and turbos, schricks etc and what not, custom brake lights, I was the first to do Lupo rear wipers, and so and so forth..... so I know my way round a car and conversion or 6.

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Pretty sure Rossco converted his 2.0L 16v to a G60 on his own aswell.

 

I sure did, so ummm, yes i have done a conversion and as far as the 20v goes, lets just say not yet 8)

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can you buy the stuff for turboing the 16v engine without relying on a TurboTech kit appearing?

 

surprised that more people don't do that if it is the case. What else do you need other than manifold, turbo and a shit load of custom pipework.

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can you buy the stuff for turboing the 16v engine without relying on a TurboTech kit appearing?

 

surprised that more people don't do that if it is the case. What else do you need other than manifold, turbo and a **** load of custom pipework.

 

Inlet and exhaust manifold off Audi S2 with one of the runners chopped off each.

 

A way to lower compression (1.8 use S2 pistons, 2.0 use JE pistons or spacer gasket).

 

Turbo (S2 one will do as well as injectors)

 

Intercooler + pipework

 

Engine management

 

To be fair it's all the little bit's you forget about, such as the oil return and oil feed lines that add up and when you have the engine out (as I do) you keep thinking...well as it's out I may as well do this and that etc.. increasing costs.

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best bet is to draw up a list of 16vt bits. ill add anything i can think of if you like.

 

take a 16v and what do you need to do to make it fit for FI and what do you have to bolt to it to make it FI. you can get a turbo setup for 2k i reckon and itll make more power than a k04 or VF'd 20v. the rest is the little bits that cost loads but not 100% necessary like head port, cams, pistons etc

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an ihi on a BAM will be better.

 

my opinion is that i wouldn't turbo the 8v. yes it works but turbo placement and engine flow limit it somwwhat. id expect the ihi is the limit on size for a 8v whereas a 16v can house almost any practical size of turbo.

 

the 20v is a good engine but ultimately a 16v can be made quicker and more powerful. flow is measured against lift and the 20v cannot handle the lift a 16v can. you can also just bolt up digi 1 so no need for a new injection system just a new chip. danny at sns has a corrado 16vt running 300+ at the wheels on 16psi or so. no more as he's staying in the confines of digi.

 

if i were you iow id look into the valve too. maybe not what you want but....

 

the big advantage of the 16v is that you are building to a power spec rather than a standard spec then having to mod again. with mine itll be a matter of just turning up the boost. remember to look at the other items needed to tune like wideband and guages. these can be one of the most expensive parts. ive spent about a grand on that type of stuff.

 

i spent around 1200 on

 

turbo, wastegate, injectors, manifold, oil lines, pistons but these are good for 450hp(injector limit)

 

these more but i wont go on as you can get the idea.

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think your right mate. was gonna ask the mods soon. when the engine is in ill have it changed if its allowed. still got a list of pricey parts to buy yet. things like shafts and a inner CV joint fore my 02m. i only got 1.

 

props to all those taking on the conversion of 20v though. there is a good bit of work to do it right. and itll cost. you gotta ask yourself how long an 02A will last with touching 300hp on a k04 so if you are doing this conversion or 16v dont leave anything unquestioned.

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depends on compression and tuning along with flow and turbo choice.

 

a ported 8v will have maybe upto 4 psi pressure drop due to flow increase. a good 8v at 5psi maybe the same as a std head one at 8 or 9.

 

without the intercooler on 9:1 id expect around 150-170hp using say a td04 from a subaru or a pretty standard t3

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Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I know very little about turbocharging. Why would the choice of turbo be an issue if the maximum boost you're planning on running is six PSI? Surely six PSI is six PSI no matter what's generating it.

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its not a stupid question.

 

a turbo pushes a given amount of air at a certain pressure. boost is just restriction of airflow. more boost is more restriction or trying to squeeze a given amount through as smaller gap.

 

when restriction or friction is caused heat is generated.

 

as you will know the denser or colder the charger the more air is packed in so the more power is attainable. you can have 6 psi of hot air or 6 psi of cold air. big differences between the 2. one reason for an intercooler. create a colder charge

 

 

a big turbo will push larger amouts of airflow at a given boost level than a smaller one. heat is then a factor. a small turbo can only push so much air then it gets hot as it tries to stack or compress air more and more. any given turbo has an efficiency range. it has lag and low flow good flow and overflow effectively. a big or efficient turbo can push more air at a give pressure level. this is down to size, wheel types and bearing types mainly. this in turn means it doesn't get as hot as a smaller unit.

 

tubos are about balance though and a large unit will have more lag and too large a unit will not boost properly at all. some like a small zippy unit with no top end even though they think it has other bigger units that have top end. all i can say is you dont know the power falls off till you have driven a big turbo car.

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Thought Id bring this puppy back to life.

 

Stan 24v, you quoted PSI 3.5k for a 1.8T conversion, drive in drive out. (i think!) Any idea how much they would charge if the engine/loom was supplied? It would probably be best to have a chat with them myself. As you seem to be their sales rep, can i have a name and number please?! :D

 

Ive found a TT 225 bam engine for sale with 14k on the clock. The engine alone is £1200, but for everything (engine/turbo/loom/gbox) it would be £1750. This seems pretty reasonable to me.

 

I can imagine it would be easier to strap the TT engine to the G60 box? Or would it better for driving and in the long run to put the TT one in? I know someone who would most probably rebuild my current 114k G60 gbox for practically nothing which i would probably do anyway.

 

Also, are things like fuel economy better?

 

Do you think it could be done by a farmer whos currently swapping everything over from a 1.6 mk1 golf gti to a 1.1 shell (engine and all), an electrician, and a floppy haired guy who knows not alot?

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anything can be done mate if you try. its just nuts n bolts. its the tuning side you need to either learn about or get somebody to do.

 

the G60 box is fine. its the choice in america for 16vt. put a diff in it and itll be fine for 300hp.

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The G60 box is fine. Its the choice for America...

 

:lol:

 

Thanks for the replys guys. I hope im on to a winner, just a few things i have to sort out.

 

Whoever posted the link to the Quantum Performance Engineering website. :thumbleft: Has been a great help.

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Quick question.

 

Would i need the wiring loom that comes with the engine, or can i plug the corrado loom into the engine?

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