The Suspension Discussion Thread

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Just to add some more fuel to the fire and make things even more confusing, crashiness isn't always down to spring rate :D

 

Crash bang wallop action is usually always down to excessive high speed bump in the dampers, or insufficient damper / spring travel.

[herisites 0]

Yeah think the high speed bump is the culprit as I'm not running mine that low, same as with the Weitecs as these GAZ's still feel quite similar over some pot holes and ruts etc that I can't always avoid, hit them with a bang and the whole interior rattles and I go from :D to :censored:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It could just be your interior rattling around making you think the car is crashy?? :D

[herisites 0]

It could just be your interior rattling around making you think the car is crashy?? :D

 

Yeah I think that is a lot of the problem hence why I spent the day felting loads of it :lol: it's not too bad now, but when I 'crash' over something there's still noise, and I think the dash is a lot of it!

[beastie4126 0]

It could just be your interior rattling around making you think the car is crashy?? :D

 

Yeah I think that is a lot of the problem hence why I spent the day felting loads of it :lol: it's not too bad now, but when I 'crash' over something there's still noise, and I think the dash is a lot of it!

 

Just leave lots of change in the door pockets to disguise it :D

 

Reading through the stuff Kev has said has made me think about changing the rear springs in the near future as I would prefer betting handling just not at the expense of comfort, however you normally have to comprimise somewhere.

 

Out of interest would you two use the same rates for the lighter 16v or would a lighter front rate be more applicable? Only asking as I am going to re-use the old FK's on my 16v trackday car for the time being and was thinking of changing the short springs and helpers for full length versions.

[herisites 0]

You'll need softer front springs for the valver mate!

 

Up to you about the rear springs on the GAZ. I know that I can just turn up the damping and mine will turn in better etc, but like Kev said harder springs are more forgiving than hardened damping. I don't think you'd lose much comfort as long as you turned the damping down to suit. My Weitec rears were rated 100lb more than the GAZ yet with the damping turned up on the GAZ's they feel the same!

[herisites 0]

Well, I changed my rear springs at the weekend, now running 375lb front and 225lb rear. Also discovered I'd put mu rear Neuspeed ARB on the softest setting and the front wheels had a bit too much negative camber. Swapped the springs, stiffened the ARB and corrected the camber and the car now corners like a house fly! Turn in is instant and general driving feels so effortless as a small turn of the steering does a lot :clap:

 

Not played around with the damping settings just yet, but went a bit softer on the back so only on 7 clicks in total now, the ride is still firm but not as crashy as with twice as many clicks, really pleased with it! Haven't touched the fronts yet so might play around with them to see how that affects it.

[wy906 0]

...stuff...

 

Thank you very much for the report!

 

As GAZ is so much cheaper than KW, seems like an easy choice for me then.

[8vMatt 1]

Herisites you should be on commission with GAZ, as after that review there's going to be a good few sales with them, myself included. :notworthy:

[Rob_B 0]

what settings are people using with their kw v3's?

im using the springs that came in the kit but im not sure what rates they are.

ive just been trying to get some ride comfort but not sure where to start from, any hints?

 

cheers

[Kevin Bacon 5]

70/50nm or 400lb/275lb are the standard V3 rates.

 

The suggestions in the manual are a good start actually. IIRC on the rebound i'ts 9 clicks open front and 12 clicks open rear. Can't remember what the low speed compression settings are. Think mine are almost on full stiffness.

[Rob_B 0]

70/50nm or 400lb/275lb are the standard V3 rates.

 

The suggestions in the manual are a good start actually. IIRC on the rebound i'ts 9 clicks open front and 12 clicks open rear. Can't remember what the low speed compression settings are. Think mine are almost on full stiffness.

 

cheers mate, ive lost the manual and the kw site doesn't have that info or strangely an email address? will give them a call tomorrow and try to get a copy of the manual.

i would imagine that those settings you have give a pretty firm ride?

it would be interesting to see how the higher spring rate works with my 4 pot as opposed to your 6 pot.

[Neil L. 0]

Just fitted coilovers on my VR and understand its best to leave them settle down for a week or two and then adjust the desired height BEFORE having the car wheel aligned! What exactly needs to be done - camber , tracking , 4 wheels aligned??? Second question is - would you wreck the tyres using the car before the alignment i.e. during settle down period? Third question how much expected to pay and where to go for alignment?

[Critical_Mass 10]

Yup give them a week OF USE before adjusting. Make sure you adjust them on a flat surface, or they'll end up being different on each corner. You'll need a 4 wheel alignment, which takes care of tracking, toe, camber and caster. T

 

The tyres will wear unevenly if you use the car before getting alignment done, but if its only for a week or 2 then it wont be bad.

[Neil L. 0]

Will i need to provide any adjustment values for the alignment process when taking to a garage? (Or any other information?). Anyone know of a good laser alignment garage near to Swansea or S Wales area?

[Critical_Mass 10]

No they wont need anything. They'll just align everything based on the height its at. Makes sure the height is as you want it before getting it done, because as soon as you change the height again you'll throw it all out and will need to get it realigned.

 

Sorry cant help you with a laser alignment in wales.

[Pete 0]

Will i need to provide any adjustment values for the alignment process when taking to a garage? (Or any other information?). Anyone know of a good laser alignment garage near to Swansea or S Wales area?

 

Hi Neil, another local Corrado! Not seen yours about but it looks fantastic from the pics.

 

I've not used them but heard good things about Nisstec and I believe they do laser alignment.

[beastie4126 0]

No they wont need anything. They'll just align everything based on the height its at. Makes sure the height is as you want it before getting it done, because as soon as you change the height again you'll throw it all out and will need to get it realigned.

 

Sorry cant help you with a laser alignment in wales.

 

Standard Camber is 1.2 negative camber but I believe it was suggested on here somewhere if you do drop the car low go for 1 degree negative. I'm also sure that you can only set toe/tracking via one side but off the top of my head I can't remember which, I think it might be right hand although the Bentley manual says left (rack is other way round as it's US based manual)

 

Cost me £70 last time I had it done.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Yeah read that too actually.

 

Cost me £70 too inc VAT

[pet73r 0]

Im thinking of buying FK ak street coilovers (mega budget at the mo) but my mate just took two fk highsports which were blown off his car. The ride on them was quite comfortable so was wandering if it was possible to use the springs from the highsports and put them on the streets??

 

Would this make the ride better?

[herisites 0]

Im thinking of buying FK ak street coilovers (mega budget at the mo) but my mate just took two fk highsports which were blown off his car. The ride on them was quite comfortable so was wandering if it was possible to use the springs from the highsports and put them on the streets??

 

Would this make the ride better?

 

The spring rates would most likely be the same, it's the better damping that makes the ride better on more expensive coilovers. For example my old Weitecs had 400lb/280lb springs on and were too crashy for me, but the same spring rates on Kev's KW V3's (£1100+ coilovers) and the ride is great, firm but not crashy at all! You could get softer spring rates for your streets though which might take the edge off, would cost about ~£40 per corner for new springs, find out the rates you have on now and then just opt for slightly softer.

[jinx 0]

Has anyone an idea what standard springs and shocks cost for a G60? I went to VW and asked but the parts guy said..."Corrado...never heard of that..are you sure it is a VW?!!!!!! :epicfail: " I told im i was sure and it is a 1990's coupe, to which he said "Oh you mean a Scirroco!!!!" :censored:

At that point i walked out in disgust!!! :mad2:

[Critical_Mass 10]

:lol: my god.... [face palm]

[tony_ack 0]

I was looking at a few options, and wanted to lower the car a bit cost effectively while maintaing the ride confort as much as possible.

 

I looked into the much-discussed H&R/Koni combo, but it seemed very very expensive for what it was - about £700-£800 for springs and 4 shocks?!? Is this right? More than the KW V1s and only a couple of hundred quid less than KW V2s?

 

Think I might just go for some H&R springs for now with the standard dampers - in terms of handling I'm guessing that this at the very least won't make the car any worse? How much do you need to take off the rear bump stops?

 

I can live with a slightly wallowy ride until I can afford something better.

[8vMatt 1]

Why spend out on something knowing you're going to have to spend again later? Might as well save what you need and get it all the one time and have exactly the suspension you want. Doesn't sound very appealling talking about altering bump stops.

 

I need to go lower but won't until I fund the ones I want. Bought some cheapy coilovers a while back, couldn't bring myself to fit them , so sold them on.