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MOT Fail on handbrake efficiency

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My corrado has just failed the MOT on the handbrake efficiency which was at 11%.

 

I'm new to Corrado ownership so bear with me, but I know the handbrake operates via the back brakes. The hand brake still works it just doesn't seem to be strong enough.

 

My rear brake calipers are pretty rusty and I was wondering if dismantling the brakes, and giving all the parts a good clean etc might help improve the handbrake efficiency? The pads are all ok. I think the mechanism has probably rusted up a bit.

 

The callipers will need replacing which I'll do at some point but at the moment I need to just try and get it through the MOT again in the next few days.

 

Any ideas? Cheers

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mine failed on this, im sure it only needs to be 13% effincency to pass, all i did was change the pads and take the callipers off to free them off. the hand brake is really good now.

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mine failed on this, im sure it only needs to be 13% effincency to pass, all i did was change the pads and take the callipers off to free them off. the hand brake is really good now.

 

Its 15% to pass on the handbrake

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almost always the cable.

work the calipers anyway try and loosen them up though as if its been sitting they may be stiff and but its more likely to be stretched handbrake cable. about £8 a side and easy enough to replace.

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mine failed on this, im sure it only needs to be 13% effincency to pass, all i did was change the pads and take the callipers off to free them off. the hand brake is really good now.

 

Its 15% to pass on the handbrake

 

thought it was somewhere round there. just loosen them off should be fine.

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My car failed today on Nearside handbrake only at 9%.. Is it just 1 cable or does it hook into a cross axle cable.

 

Also failed on teh rear vlave thingy. Said it may be mechanical. Some lever may be siezed.. If its pressure related he said I'll need a new one.

 

Where is this lever?

 

Cheers all.

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It has two cable either side,and the brake compensator might be seized(just use WD40 to free it off,its located on the axel),but its not related to the handbrake as its Hydraulic and the handbrake is mechanical.

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Having been working on the car all morning. I have freed up the Brake valve thingy. Easy enuff. Hammer and WD40 :lol:

 

Moves very easy now.

 

Seems I have a totally stuffed pass side rear caliper. Takes a hammer to move the handbrake assembley. If I pull the handbrake then release the caliper stays in the on position....

 

Guess this is a new caliper then :roll:

 

More expense.

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My handbrake performance was flagged as an advisory on the last MOT as it only just scraped through...and that's with MK4 calipers and decent pads and discs!

 

Might try some uber sticky pads in the back I think..... something like Pagid RS15 if they do them in that pad profile.

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Corrado handbrakes are pish! My 16v's one was awful took about 14000 clicks to engage it with the handle pointing skyward and it still rolled forward. That was a fun MOT! :roll:

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Should go back to drums as they worked F*cking well :lol:

 

Aye, hence BMWs, some vauxhalls, 911s etc still using drums for the handbrake!

 

I don't understand why my car scrapes through on HB performance when my mate's Focus walks the HB test, and it uses exactly the same calipers and pads!! The discs are larger tho.... maybe that's it? 239mm is a pathetically small disc and they warp easily too.

 

But it all boils down to VW equipping a 145mph coupe with cr@p brakes and cr@p wipers!

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Just failed on this this morning, really annoying. Was just about to come and ask you guys. Anyway just to tighten it up at all?

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Yeah, I tightened mine up in the end to get it through the MOT. To be honest it's probably best to replace the cables as they only cost about a tenner and it looks fairly easy to do. But I needed it through the MOT fast so cleaned up the rear callipers, put new disks and pads on and tightened the handbrake cable.

 

If you take the cover off around the handbrake lever you can tighten the cable quite easily. One cable was ok but I think the other was stretched so needed tightening quite a lot. My lever goes up and right a bit now but it works well enough and went through the MOT. New cables are on the to do list though.

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Ive seen it all with these, washers and nuts packed up on the adjusters, ferverent bodging and all for nothing, always worth doing the job properly!

 

The cams also go eventually so no matter how tight you pull the lever up through the sunroof and out the boot it wont stop...

 

Mine done fairly cheap, second click and the car is nailgunned to the ground :lol:

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My handbrake is not working at all. I tried to tighten the cables with the nuts at the lever crank. Now it's really hard to pull the lever more than around four-five clicks, but even then the car rolls fine.

 

Where do I begin? Should I replace the cables, or is it something with the calipers? I had to tighten the nuts really much, but still there's no tension on the cables when the lever is disengaged.

 

The brake pedal works, however.

 

It's a 92' 2.0 16V.

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zacon, your caliper cams are shot mate, they will operate on the cam levers if you watch them, but if you dissemble the caliper you will find the piston wont travel far when the cam operates. The hydraulics however will be fine.

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Probably replacing both calipers would be a good start. when you adjusted the handbrake adjuster was the plate with the two cable ends at an angle?

 

If you havent got a manual ill talk you through doing this if you PM me. Halfords do lucus brand swaps on the old ones I think.

 

These calipers are prone to going, Ive heard of people using the golf M1 GTI ones as they are a lot better design.

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