Best Oil for a VR6

[RS VR6 0]

I'm using Mobil 1 0w40.

[eatthis 0]

Eatthis it's the 'FUCHS Silkolene PRO S 10W-50' your after, when i went hunting around for my source (after taking some of Kev's advice) i found a supplier in Herts called 'RPM Motorsport' (other side of the water from me who sells on E-Bay), not cheap but well worth it, try this link (click on the performance oils section),

 

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/RPM-Motorsport

 

i just drove over & picked mine up but he'll courier it to you, or alternatively think Opie Oils will happily flog you the stuff!

 

cheers added to favorites :)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I'm using Mobil 1 0w40.

 

How many miles has your motor done?

 

No way I'd use that on a VR that's exceeded 80K.

 

Eatthis, sounds like your valve guides could be starting to go.....what mileage is it on? The stock guides normally start to go at 50ish K (especially on the rear bank's exhaust valves) and are in need of replacing around 100K, sometimes as early as 80K.

[eatthis 0]

if you mean the valve stem oil seals they were done at 88k miles along with new tappets and obviously a headgasket

it could be a bit of bore wear on 1 cylinder as it fouled 1 pliug up a bit in 12k miles but overall the engine is in good nick as it has always made good torque

[RS VR6 0]

I'm using Mobil 1 0w40.

 

How many miles has your motor done?

 

No way I'd use that on a VR that's exceeded 80K.

 

 

Lol...because someone told you that it'll cause leaks or the oil will get past the rings? I started using it at 100K...and now I have 118k...with no issues.

[Jim Bowen 1]

how much oil should a VR use, i seem to have to top up at least once a week, probably doing a lot of miles though recentely, maybe 500-600 a week :!

[RS VR6 0]

If your topping your oil once a week...your probably burning oil or have a leak somewhere.

[Yandards 0]

Humn, interesting thread.

 

Engine has only done 80k but needs a quick change first (Oil is filthy) but will put silko in after I think.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Lol...because someone told you that it'll cause leaks or the oil will get past the rings? I started using it at 100K...and now I have 118k...with no issues.

 

Cor, aren't you a hero.

 

I form my own conclusions from testing these things myself, thanks.

 

You were the one that mentioned leaks and blow-by, so it's obviously something you researched yourself before trying it :roll:

[RS VR6 0]

Leaks and blow by are caused by bad rings and seals...not by synthetic oil.

 

By my conclusions, if your engine is healthy...there is no reason why you can't use synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I've done several oil changes with NO leaks anywhere...and none of my seals have been changed.

[Neil VR6 0]

I think the point is that you need to be sympathetic with old engines. Running a slightly thicker oil will help to "compensate" for things like worn seals and piston rings. On an engine where heat can build up and cause ovalisation on high milers, I'd say being prudent with a thicker oil is wise if you don't want to have to prematurely rebuild.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Leaks and blow by are caused by bad rings and seals...not by synthetic oil.

 

By my conclusions, if your engine is healthy...there is no reason why you can't use synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I've done several oil changes with NO leaks anywhere...and none of my seals have been changed.

 

Yeah, Sure....

 

No way a 118K old VR6 engine can hold a 0 weight synthetic oil with no burning or leaks what so ever. The tolerances simply aren't tight enough in the 12V.

[Supercharged 2]

Maybe depends on climate but VW doesn't recommend anything less than a 10 unless the car has been run on 5 since new....

 

I tried some 5w Syntha in my G60 when I first got it and it was pissing out all over the place, changed it for 10 without doing anything else and it was fine for a good couple of years...

[matt_corradovr6 0]

do quantum do a 10w50 fully synth?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Nope! 10W/40 is the thickest they do.

[Yandards 0]

There is another issue with running fully synth oil, and it is a big one as far as I am concerned.

 

It all comes down to manufacturing tolerances; for those that don't know nothing (or very very little) is ever made to the exact size as shown in its engineering drawings/blueprints. The reason is that it is very expensive to do this, so you are given a tolerance or range that objects are allowed to be within. Tolerances are expressed as a figure and can be positive, negative, or both. So for instance say I manufacture a square flat plate of metal and the drawing calls for it to be 100mm along the side. I have a tolerance of +/- 0.5mm so the square can be anything from 95.5mm to 100.5mm in size.

 

The problem comes when you take into account advances in manufacturing since the construction/design of all the components on or in a Corrado. You can now make components to a much tighter (less range) tolerance and as such modern synthetics are designed to run with less space between components - especially the oil pump. As such they need thinner oil to ensure correct levels of lubrication and more importantly correct oil pressure.

 

By using a thinner grade of oil in an older engine you are not providing the specified viscosity of oil and you will loose oil pressure as the pump was not designed to run with thinner oil.

 

Of course you may well find that you have a 'good' pump with tight tolerances from the factory and you can run thinner oil with no problems but I would not recommend it.

[matt_corradovr6 0]

Nope! 10W/40 is the thickest they do.

 

10w 40 fully synth. can u get from the stealer etc. I'm gonna do the oil next week and want fully synth as opposed to synta silver. ta :D

[steve @ 0]

There is another issue with running fully synth oil, and it is a big one as far as I am concerned.

 

It all comes down to manufacturing tolerances; for those that don't know nothing (or very very little) is ever made to the exact size as shown in its engineering drawings/blueprints. The reason is that it is very expensive to do this, so you are given a tolerance or range that objects are allowed to be within. Tolerances are expressed as a figure and can be positive, negative, or both. So for instance say I manufacture a square flat plate of metal and the drawing calls for it to be 100mm along the side. I have a tolerance of +/- 0.5mm so the square can be anything from 95.5mm to 100.5mm in size.

 

The problem comes when you take into account advances in manufacturing since the construction/design of all the components on or in a Corrado. You can now make components to a much tighter (less range) tolerance and as such modern synthetics are designed to run with less space between components - especially the oil pump. As such they need thinner oil to ensure correct levels of lubrication and more importantly correct oil pressure.

 

By using a thinner grade of oil in an older engine you are not providing the specified viscosity of oil and you will loose oil pressure as the pump was not designed to run with thinner oil.

 

Of course you may well find that you have a 'good' pump with tight tolerances from the factory and you can run thinner oil with no problems but I would not recommend it.

 

I dont think it's got anything to do with whether its synth or not its the viscosity that's more mportant with what your describing.

[mattosmond 0]

has anyone used the oil below.... as it seems pretty cheap (price form gsf website)???

 

Total Quartz 7000 semi synthetic 10W40 5 litres £ 11.50 +vat

[Son of a Beesting 0]

You can get silkoline Pro s 10w50 stuff cheaper from opie oils

[eatthis 0]

Leaks and blow by are caused by bad rings and seals...not by synthetic oil.

 

By my conclusions, if your engine is healthy...there is no reason why you can't use synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I've done several oil changes with NO leaks anywhere...and none of my seals have been changed.

 

 

you seem to be cunfusing synthetic/semi synth with thin/thick oil you can get 10/40 synthetic and you can get 0-30 semi or even mineral

[Yandards 0]

I dont think it's got anything to do with whether its synth or not its the viscosity that's more mportant with what your describing.

 

Sorry on nights brain not working properly!!

 

You are quite correct but it is hard to find fully synth oils of a high viscosity and something like mobil 1 is no good at all.

[RS VR6 0]

Leaks and blow by are caused by bad rings and seals...not by synthetic oil.

 

By my conclusions, if your engine is healthy...there is no reason why you can't use synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I've done several oil changes with NO leaks anywhere...and none of my seals have been changed.

 

Yeah, Sure....

 

No way a 118K old VR6 engine can hold a 0 weight synthetic oil with no burning or leaks what so ever. The tolerances simply aren't tight enough in the 12V.

 

Say no all you want...but my car is my proof...whats yours?

[RS VR6 0]

Leaks and blow by are caused by bad rings and seals...not by synthetic oil.

 

By my conclusions, if your engine is healthy...there is no reason why you can't use synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I've done several oil changes with NO leaks anywhere...and none of my seals have been changed.

 

 

you seem to be cunfusing synthetic/semi synth with thin/thick oil you can get 10/40 synthetic and you can get 0-30 semi or even mineral

 

No...not really.

 

Kev came out and said he wouldn't recommend it. With that I knew he was talking about possible oil leaks and/or blow by.

 

I spoke with many people before I decided to use the 0w-40 on my car. I did come across the issue of leaks and blow by. Some say yes...other say its an "old wives tale". I know people that have made the switch at 100k plus on mk3 VR's, also with no issues.

 

So...I decided to give it a shot myself. I've done about 4-5 oil changes and there are no leaks and no abnormal oil consumption...and no smoke from blowby.

 

Like I've said before...it depends on the shape of your engine. If you have a haggered 170k engine that has no maintenence done...then I'd think twice...but at 100k on a VR6...come on...

 

Mobil's website recommends the 0w-40 for the Corrado VR6.

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/mot ... x?option=1

 

Off the Mobil 1 website:

 

"Myth:

Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.

 

Reality:

Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use."

[___Dubstar___ 0]

please dont shout at me, (great thread by the way, have always wondered about the great oil debate - ill be going for the silky 10/50 stuff me thinks) but what is "blow by" and should i be asking my girlfriend for one?