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DUBST4R

Brakes...

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Thought i just share the driving experience i had this weekend gone..

 

wanted to open my VR a bit on the motorway and ended up was it err..undertaking a merc. who wouldn't budge out of my way..i then see all these cars almost stopping ahead for a speed camera (thought it was an traffic at first)..bloody idiots were well below the speed limit as it was!!..So i kinda slammed my brakes on (not right down) and my back end of my rado started to swing out slightly..as though i was driving a rear wheel drive car in the rain..i applied brakes three times and it was slightly swinging out each of the times..I thought i was gonna loose it for a mo. but didn't...pheww..

 

I think i have uneven pressure to the rear calipers..so better get this checked out now..

 

Anyone else had this experience b4..?

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Yep, when you lower it the bias valve sends more pressure to the rear brakes, that's why your rear end is sliding out under heavy braking. I believe it's best to take it to the dealers as they have the correct equipment to adjust it properly.

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Cool, will give them a call..

 

Just a thought..so if i then decided to put it back to the original suspension to i need to adjust it again..?

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Indeed you will, otherwise the rears will be doing next to nothing.

 

Or about what they normally do as most C handbrake mechs are seized on anyway ;)

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Indeed you will, otherwise the rears will be doing next to nothing.

 

Or about what they normally do as most C handbrake mechs are seized on anyway ;)

 

Which reminds me, my handbrake needs checking ... don’t want it roll off down a hill like Chris Hill’s did!

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Indeed you will, otherwise the rears will be doing next to nothing.

 

Or about what they normally do as most C handbrake mechs are seized on anyway ;)

 

Which reminds me, my handbrake needs checking ... don’t want it roll off down a hill like Chris Hill’s did![/quote:28a62]

 

Should be rock solid on 3 clicks and you might manage 4 clicks if it set up properly. Anymore than that it will be a siezed mech or poorly adjusted cables (although in my experience most cables are never adjusted unless they are changed)

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I think mine needs 4 clicks with new cables and decent rear mechs. What does cause me a problem is that the springs on the calipers are different strengths so if you adjust the cable for the drivers side caliper, the spring is stronger and all that happens is the passenger side caliper gets pulled on. consequently, the cables aren't adjusted too tightly. but the handbrake works well and smoothly, so I'm happy.

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Which reminds me, my handbrake needs checking ... don’t want it roll off down a hill like Chris Hill’s did!

 

Should be rock solid on 3 clicks and you might manage 4 clicks if it set up properly. Anymore than that it will be a siezed mech or poorly adjusted cables (although in my experience most cables are never adjusted unless they are changed)

 

Hopefully it's just the cables that need adjusting on mine, it works fine except on steep inclines where it creaks pretty loudly when you get out and it doesn't feel particularly secure (no doubt it would wander off if it wasn't left in gear). The rear brakes themselves work well so I'm thinking new cables if adjusting them doesn't work, or should I get new rear calipers aswell?

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Brakes rarely work exactly the same on every wheel, hence why the ABS usually only has to catch one locked wheel at a time. I think this is what causes the snaking sensation (it doesn't look half as bas as it feels) as the ABS is grabbing and releasing the locked rear wheels in turn.....or something.....that's my theory at least :-) The back end goes extremely light under hard braking, so any weirdness going on with the brakes will have a pronounced affect. Just stick loads of lead in the rear bumper ;-)

 

No amount of adjustment of the bias valve will solve this tho and believe me, I've tried. You were driving too fast for the conditions, plain and simple, lesson learned ;-)

 

To adjust the valve anyway, on level ground, climb underneath and slacken the nut on the bias valve spring. With the spring slightly loose, retighten the nut. If the spring is already loose, no need to do it, but I would say that if the spring is too loose, there won't be enough pressure going to the back and the brakes will barely work at all!

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Personally I reckon if your car is swerving under hard braking you should consider getting your suspension alignment checked. That would be my first thought before blaming the brakes anyway.

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i had something simular and it was the front brake which were unbalanced. turned out the original copper hose had a restiction in it. odd.

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