Meguiar's Products - Help needed

[John-M 0]

I recently visited one Meguiar's 'Master Stockists' for advice on their products, and I am utterly appalled at the lack of interest or knowledge they showed.

 

I was wanting to know the about two products, the quick Clay Starter Kit and the Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner. Specifically what the difference was and how to choose between them.

 

One assistant told me 'Well, its up to you, they're the same really' I questioned that and he asked a collegue, who looked at the labels on both and told me 'This one (Deep Crystal ... ) is like T-Cut and this one (the Clay kit) is a polish'

 

I said that I didnt think it (Clay kit) was a polish and he said 'Yes, it is'

 

I was going to ask about the difference between two wash products (Gold Class vs Nxt Generation) but thought better of it.

 

 

So, in the absence of any knowledgeable and sensible advice their 'Master Stockist', can anyone here advise me ??

 

My Corrado has metallic paint, very dark blue almost black, has been somewhat neglected for a while and is in need of a good sorting out.

 

I have in mind using the 3 step process - Deep Crystal Cleaner, Polish, then Wax. To what extent does the DC Paint Cleaner do the same job as the Clay kit and when would/should I use the clay.

 

Any (sensible, lol) advice would be gratefully appreciated.

[nocrap 0]

There are numerous pages in this section with info on what a huge range of products.........a bit of reading is in order. i have heard that the 3 step is good, the best way that i've found even after doing a shed load of reading about the different products is to try various products and see which gives you the result your after, it all depends on how picky you are.

 

Where abouts in suffolk are you??

[Yandards 0]

Have a look on the meguiars forum, loads of good advice on there.

 

The clay bar is a good start, if will remove any impurities imbedded in the paint work.

 

The 3 stage process is also good, just make sure you only do a panel at a time with the first 2 stages and wipe off whilst still moist.

 

Stick stage 3 on and leave it for as long as you can 24 hours + and then wipe if off, this allows the wax is harden.

 

Once it's all done then a good coat of stage 3 once every couple of months combined with careful washing should ensure a lasting shine without the need to polish again for a while.

[Riley 0]

The clay is a sort of paint cleaner...in that it removes any slight tar spots/bits of overspray etc...in prep for cutting/cleaning/polishing.Its a mechanical preperation stage.

 

But the step 1 paint cleaner is very diffarent,as its a chemical liquid cleaner that will give an evenly prepped/clean finish in preperation for polish,and should be used after clay,and also after something like scratch-x.

 

Polish wise,id go for the autoglym ultra deep shine,followed by a carnauba paste wax.

 

Use each stage...paint cleaner/(scratch-x if using)/polish a good few times before finally applying a wax.Dont be tempted to clean/polish/wax all straight away...use each product until best results are achieved...

 

Neil.

[Riley 0]

As the guys say really...

 

And must change my sig... :roll:

[g60greeny 0]

whats happened like neil,things not goin well m8?

[Riley 0]

Stupid feckin illness getting in the way of everything...and basically ruining my life m8 :(

[John-M 0]

Ta for the replies - I'll do some more reading as well, but the above sounds good :)

 

nocrap: I'm the other side of Ipswich from you, in Bramford.

[herisites 0]

As said clay, then DC step 1 paint cleaner to prep for polish. The step 2 isnt actually a polish as it comtains no abrasives etc, it is actually more of a glaze. So you could potentially do a 4 step, paint cleaner - polish such as autoglym super resin polish (SRP) to fill in swirls - step 2 polish which is a glaze and will give a good shine - step 3 wax.

 

If you decide to use Super Resin Polish (which is a very good product and will hide swirls, especially with 2-3 coats) a good step after this polish is Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (EGP) which will give the paint a wet shine and as its a sealant gives better protection than the step 3 wax which doesnt last very long. You can also follow the EGP with a wax if you want extra protection.

 

So the order would be:

 

Wash

Clay

Wash/Rinse

Step 1 Paint Cleaner

Polish such as SRP or Ultra Deep Shine (good on dark colours and both fill swirls)

EGP (as a sealant) or Step 2 (as a glaze)

Step 3 wax (optional if you use EGP, must if you use step 2)

 

Hope this helps :)

 

Rob.

[John-M 0]

OK, thanks for all the above. Here's another quick question :-

 

As part of a 4 stage process - Clay, Clean, Polish, Wax - Is Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Liquid Wax any better than their Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax - or is it just 'different' ??

 

It's twice the price so there should be a difference - or is it trying to do more than one job ??

[herisites 0]

I havent tried it personally but i would imagine it is better but most importantly more durable as the Deep Crystal wax doesnt last very long at all.

[Jay2 0]

Hello John-M,

 

Have you tried your 4 stage process yet?

 

In a similar situation in that I've got the 3-stage meguiars stuff, which includes the Carnuba Wax, but also got the more pricey Clear Coat Liquid Wax as well.

 

Would be interested to know how you got on? Especially with leaving the wax on for 24 hours?

[John-M 0]

Hello John-M,

 

Have you tried your 4 stage process yet?

 

In a similar situation in that I've got the 3-stage meguiars stuff, which includes the Carnuba Wax, but also got the more pricey Clear Coat Liquid Wax as well.

 

Would be interested to know how you got on? Especially with leaving the wax on for 24 hours?

 

 

Nope, not yet. I should get on with it :)

 

Sorting out other stuff at the moment tho.

 

The shampoo/conditioner is good - I'm using the 2 bucket method and a wash glove. So much easier I find.

 

Have you done yours yet ?

[Furkz 0]

stage 3 wax gives a better shine then gold class and nxt tech wax!

[Jim 2]

I did a 3 stage on mine a few months ago and was thrilled with the results. I don't think I gave the carnuba long enough to set as i'm finding fade on my flash red paint again, but immediately after it was done the colour was deep and glossy.

 

Instead of the meguiars polish however (stage2) I used the Autoglym SRP. I find the results far more impressive on my flash red paint, but then different polishes seem to work better on different paints.. never got pleasing results on my green Corrado with the AG stuff?

 

Well worth doing though.. even if it does leave you with a seriously dead arm for a day or two! :)

[vwdeviant 0]

Jay2 John-M

 

I've used the first 2 of 3 step followed by the Clearcoat as I heard Carabuna doesn't last to long....Went over from using SRP/Wax...

 

Other thing is that if you use UDP you can't use EGP as apparently it doesn't bond....

 

Have recently done 1/3 of teh bonnet of the Cabby as a test and really impressed, the reflections appear much sharper with this.. however it needs the bonnet claying as I don't think it's ever been done... Anyway here's the results on the Rado's bonnet... I'm pretty impressed.

 

[herisites 0]

Instead of the meguiars polish however (stage2) I used the Autoglym SRP. I find the results far more impressive on my flash red paint

 

Thats because SRP is actually polishing your paint where as even though the step 2 says its a polish its actually a glaze, it has NO abrasives so wont cut any of the clear coat to bring up the finish, all it does it just adds oils to the paint giving it a bit more shine! Thats why you need to use the step 1 as that will do all the cutting thats essential to bring the paint back to life from fading etc. You could actually go step 1 - SRP and then add step 2 on top as a glaze followed by step 3 or whatever wax to protect.

[herisites 0]

Jon, considering thats not a very dark colour thats an impressive reflection! Claying will help the reflection slightly but mainly make the paint feel smooth as glass!

 

Going to be doing mine ALL again soon, had a bit more practise with the polisher so going to spend a few days on it and get it 100% swirl free and make the flake POP!!

[vwdeviant 0]

Jon, considering thats not a very dark colour thats an impressive reflection! Claying will help the reflection slightly but mainly make the paint feel smooth as glass!

 

Going to be doing mine ALL again soon, had a bit more practise with the polisher so going to spend a few days on it and get it 100% swirl free and make the flake POP!!

 

Cheers Rob... Worked hard on getting that (about a day all in)... Will probably have to do it all over again as it's been sitting for over a month now...

 

The bonnet of the Cabby does need doing as you can see the bits leaving streaks when applying Polish/wax... So will get onto that as soon as I can find a Clay-kit (probably end up ordering it off net)... I guess claying it will also mean that the wax will stay on it slightly longer as it'll bond to the surface rather than to some to the contaminants and some of the surface.

[Jay2 0]

Hiya mate,

 

Nope not got round to trying the 3 Step Process, got all the bits just waiting for a good few days of appropriate weather, ie. no rain, showers and also no sun?!

 

Is it true that I need to keep the Step3 Wax on to harden as long as possible, such as overnight, etc?

 

Cheers.

[herisites 0]

The bonnet of the Cabby does need doing as you can see the bits leaving streaks when applying Polish/wax... So will get onto that as soon as I can find a Clay-kit (probably end up ordering it off net)... I guess claying it will also mean that the wax will stay on it slightly longer as it'll bond to the surface rather than to some to the contaminants and some of the surface.

 

Yeah a good clean surface helps a lot when polishing! Makes applying and removing it so much easier! I would imagine that it does help the wax bond better to the paint as well.

 

I use sonus green clay when i do cars as its only mild so wont leave any scratches behind where as some more agressive clays can! I think the Megs quick clay is quite mild IIRC but not used it so cant really say.

[herisites 0]

Is it true that I need to keep the Step3 Wax on to harden as long as possible, such as overnight, etc?

 

It is true that you need to leave some waxes to cure before removing and the longer you leave the better. Leaving it on 24 hours isn't really necessary, more like an hour to dry and then buff off but add a second layer 24 hours after to give better protection.

 

However if you are pushed for time and cant apply another coat the next day then you can apply 2 coats of wax at the same time but in a way that allows just as good protection, and that is applying it in the 'Spit Shine' method. Here is what spit shining is:

 

GUIDE

 

Not sure if it will work with the step 3 wax as its a liquid wax and i think its more for paste waxes but worth knowing if you change wax.

[Philuk 0]

being a master stockist for meguairs (if you look in there book under North Yorkshire, then Betta Motoring- Thats me! well the business i work for. :D) then i can say meguairs dont give us any training, everything i have learnt about the meguairs products is from reading the book they provide and from the information that i get from these forums. I'm not saying that being a dime bar in the area and trying to blag it is the right thing, if at any time i'm not sure i will ask the other staff, then if still no joy i ring meguairs myself to ask there technical people. but even from reading the little book they provide you can tell that the clay isnt a polish. Just thought i would add that for you, some of you probably kno this, but i thought i'd say so you dont think all master stockist's are as bad as that one sounds

 

im gonna be trying the clay and using some of the 3 stage when i get my C :D