Guide to fitting VR6 cams

[monzablau16v 0]

ok thanks for the clarificiation...

 

can you clear up something for me. I have got to the stage where the cam cover is off, the cams are exposed, i got TDC on number 1 and the cams are "locked" in place with my self made metal cam alignment tool.

 

 

 

So, i believe my next steps are:

 

1) undo chain tensioner bolt

2) undo bearing caps (using sequence from bently manual)

3) remove old cams (i should be able to do this without removing the sprocket bolts right?)

4) on the new cams going in, remove sprocket nut and then sprocket on the rear cam (the one without the cam trigger wheel). My 263 cams can be seen here (http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=94100&p=1083386#p1083386)

4) re-insert new cams taking note of the orientation and making sure the slots are alighned with the head as the old cams were before they came out

5) replace bearing caps

6) fit sprocket back onto exhaust cam whilst jiggling it so it sits into the chain this is the step which i am most unsure of at the moment...

 

 

i got a full write up with photos which ill put up in my post in the membors gallery, once everything is done and my car is running properly (hopefully!!!)

 

cheers!

[monzablau16v 0]

a bit more confused...

 

Kev, you mentioned the rear cam (the longer of the two) has the trigger wheel. Just wondering why it does not show up on ETKA? Is it becuase that photo is for a dizzy engine which has a different setup?

 

 

 

is it just ETKA that is missing the correct picture or am i losing my marbles?

 

thanks!!!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah that pic is showing a drive attachment for a dizzy on the front cam....

[monzablau16v 0]

Yeah that pic is showing a drive attachment for a dizzy on the front cam....

Lovely, cheers

 

so did my previous post make sense about my next steps and the order to remove the existing cams?

 

Ta

[Goldie 2]

Bit of a resurrection on this thread but i have a couple of questions...

 

Ive just fitted my 263 cams (after them sitting around for a year!)

 

Anyway, a few things.

 

1. When i have the cams lined up (pre change) at No1 TDC (in a suitable locking plate) the crank pulley is slightly off the mark on the block, i am talking a mm or 2. Should i be worried by this? Ive changed the cams over now to 263s and everything is as it was.

 

2. Although the upper timing chain cover must have been off and replaced at some stage there isnt really any evidence of a sealant used, What should i use, anything available from high street shops, B&Q etc?

 

3. the more i read into refitting tensioner bolts the more i worry. How do i know if i have a late or early bolt and what is the definitive script on repriming it before refitting?

 

Ive got a load more work going on with the car so it wont be getting started for a while, id just like to make sure its all good to go while i crack on with the other bits.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Yeah, think it quite normal for the crank pulley to be very slightly off, am sure mine has been in the past.

 

I use that hylomar blue stuff (or any non setting gasket type stuff) for the timing cases, its quite common in petrol stations that sell a few car maintainance bits.

 

Both tensioner bolts i've had, i dropped into a tub of oil and pressed it in and out a few times.

 

Remember to turn it over by hand to check its all ok.

 

I managed to do my cams without removing the upper chain, just pulled it off and carefully manouvered the cams

[Goldie 2]

Happy days...

 

I got the cams in ok with the chain in place. Ill get some of that sealant and once ive got the bolt in will hand turn it to make sure its all ok..

 

When you first fired it up afterwards did you remove the fuel pump relay to let the oil pressure prime?

[Jim Bowen 1]

I undo the crank sensor on front of engine, is a white plug that clip near the front engine mount

[Goldie 2]

Nice one.

 

I have the sealant and i think ive primed the tensioner. Ive just put it in a mug of oil and depressed released it sevreal times. There is no sign of any air and there is resistance in it..

[fla 9]

Happy days...

 

I got the cams in ok with the chain in place. Ill get some of that sealant and once ive got the bolt in will hand turn it to make sure its all ok..

 

When you first fired it up afterwards did you remove the fuel pump relay to let the oil pressure prime?

 

Goldie? Just for my understanding do you mean you installed the new cams with sprockets already fitted? I am hoping to do this shortly too, and I've got my cams ready with the sprockets. Was there enough slack in the chain? Also, how did you ensure that the timing wasn't upset during fitting?

 

Also, how much time did this take roughly? My car is on the drive so no covered place to do it. I'm more worried about the 'Sahara Dust' we've been getting recently going into parts of the engine it shouldn't...

[Goldie 2]

When i put the 263s in i had sprockets on them already. There is enough slack in the chains, it is fiddly but doable. I think i removed one and fitted the new one in its place so was never cam less. That way the chains can't get dropped..

 

To ensure the timing wasn't altered all i did was make sure the cams were aligned against a locking plate (one tooth out on the sprocket would mean these wouldn't line up). Once in i hand barred the engine round and checked all timing marks (cam alignment, crankshaft pulley and the mark when you look down the chains, the intermediate sprocket).i did this several times to make sure i was happy.

 

Time wise, are we talking from starting an engine strip down or have you got the cam cover ready to lift? If the latter i would say give it a couple of hours. Torque settings are all in the bentley manual.

 

If you need anymore help fire away. Ive done this twice now, looking back the first time i was clueless so was very methodical 2nd time round..

[fla 9]

Very useful thanks. I will do it in two stages - removing all the parts first and then fit the cams later. Probably better to leave the rocker cover on until the cams are taken out?

[Goldie 2]

Leave the cam cover on (or down to a couple of bolts) until you are ready to do the cams themselves..

 

Have you got a cam locking tool?

[fla 9]

OK.

No. Last time when I did the chains I used a stiff piece of plastic cut to shape.

[seanl82 23]

I used the back of a rigging knife and drilled a hole to lock mine in place! Anything that works will do! :lol:

[science 0]

It's worth turning the engine over by hand after refitting the tensioner bolt, it's possible to overfill the bolt with oil making it difficult to turn by hand. This is much easier to get right with the rocker cover off.

[fla 9]

started this earlier today - managed to cause the rear cam to jump a tooth as i turned the engine over from the cam shaft into the slack of the chain - idiot. So the two alignment slots are not quite straight. Anyway, this will be adjusted back to normal when I refit the cams.

 

Just a small point, I cant seem to fit the socket wrench into the the crank pulley, hence used the cams. There doesn't seem to be enough gap between the side of the engine and the chassis leg. Am i missing something?

 

Also looks like I didn't replace the upper tensioner pad when i did the chains on mine as its more than a bit scored - great :( Whats the quickest way to separate the gearbox to get the pad out?

 

Another thing - i have Newman 264 cams which actually look exactly the same as the standard ones in terms of lobe orientation, although they both are stamped at one end with 270 on them. What exactly is the physical difference between standard and 263/264/268 cams?

Edited April 23, 2014 by fla

[fla 9]

made a schoolboy error here - removing the cams they went out of position so i rotated the cam back but forgot to do it by bringing the chain back one link.

Now the issue is this - i can get the cams to line up with my alignment plate but I'm worried that the crank may be out by one tooth. I cant see the mark on the crank pulley so am relying on the intermediate shaft slot and the alignment of the cams. Any other way to check the crank is still in the right position? At the moment the chain is only on the rear cam and hanging down.

[Dox 22]

Screwdriver in the sparkplug hole and rock the engine back and forth using a socket on the crank pulley

[fla 9]

Thanks dox. Would that give the accuracy of one link in the chain?

[fla 9]

just following on from the previous point, how do you actually see the timing marks on the crank pulley? I cant see them from the top - does the arch liner have to come out?

[Jim Bowen 1]

The cover needs to come off, not the whole liner, but have seen a few C's without the cover installed.

 

Timing mark is a little embossed line on the metal casing and a little notch cut out of the pulley.

[fla 9]

ok, so i'll need to get the trolley jack out again!

[VAG-hag 0]

http://www.agthompsonfamily.com/vw/TimingChain6.jpg

 

its at 5 oclock ish when lined up

[Diesel 0]

Hi I'm having issues. When I install 268 cams & put chain on seems like there to much slack on the guid side & when assembling everything & tensioner back rotate crank 4 revaluation back to mark the cam looking tool wont go in. I have to rotate past the line on the crank then they go in. Looks to be half tooth off on the crank shaft side where the shaved tooth is. Any help would be grateful  Thank you.