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VRTrickster

OBD2 Conversion Time

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Nope, UK VR6s never got a CEL AFAIK.

 

Your parts list reads OK. I don't think anything critical is missing.

 

The brake servo will have to come out to feed the engine harness to the fusebox and it will plug into the Corrado fuseboard. There will be a lot of redundant plugs, but most of the 'active' ones can only fit in the board one way, so you can't go wrong.

 

The Golf Loom is longer and also shorter in places than the Corrado one, and there will be some duplicated wires you won't need, and extras, like A/C etc.

Knowing how neat you like your engine bay, you will need to do a bit of splicing. You basically make one good loom out of the two. You can get the proper VW cloth tape from most places. It's better than insulating tape as it keeps the loom flexible, unlike insulating tape which forms rigid logs of wire!!

 

What ever you do, take extra precautions to avoid chaffing damage because once that loom is in, it's in and will be a bastid to trace wiring faults afterwards!

 

The Golf loom bulkhead grommets are bigger and different shapes too, so you'll need to cut and shut the corrado ones on instead.

 

You can lose the transponder stuff. Call Vince as he has a bypass technique.

 

It's not difficult, just time consuming.

 

The rewards for your efforts will be:-

 

Cylinder selective knock trimming and much faster response.

Optimum timing maintained constantly.

Better low end torque and midrange.

It will never, ever stall again or even think about stalling.

Much faster lambda.

Phased injection timing (to compensate for inlet tract length)

Better mpg and smoother response.

Much better scope for tuning.

 

I would also recommend you get rid of the bosch injectors and fit Delphis instead as they idle so much better and respond faster. They're cheap as chips. They're an unknown brand here, but are a huge US company. They designed and produce the electromagnetic dampers for most cars using active suspension.....new TT, Porsche PASM etc etc.

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It will never, ever stall again or even think about stalling.

 

:lol: So 95 on Golf 3 VR6's never stall then?

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The only time I've seen stalling probs with OBD2 VR6s is when the stepper throttle packs up, or some other component/s have failed.....or if a plum is driving it with poor clutch control!

 

As for pulling up to junctions etc, I've never seen an OBD2 stall :-)

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Cheers cheesewire, very helpful and informative info!

 

I am actually looking forward to carrying out this myself, as I know if all goes well it will give me a very big :D

 

So from what you

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Well done mate.

 

I just left any plugs and wires surplus to requirements tied up out of the way but do it how you like mate.

 

The twisted blue / brown wires for your MAF signal. Don't be tempted to untwist them for neatness!! Very important :)

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Nice work, glad to see someone else embarking on this conversion, keep us posted on your progress. I say that as I'm seriously considering doing this as well, but still a little skeptical if I could pull it off.

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Right well, slowly does it. I Manage to finish off the loom today and get the plugs back in to the foot well ready to be plugged in!

The hardest part of this conversion I think is taking out and refitting the servo, what an absolute pain in the a**e!

Just a quick question really, does the OBD2 Golf use the 109 ecu relay? I ask as I got the whole fuse panel sent to me with the loom etc, and it doesnt have the relay plugged in! I dont know if its been removed or not? :?

 

Ill get some more pics up Monday :)

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Just a quick question really, does the OBD2 Golf use the 109 ecu relay? I ask as I got the whole fuse panel sent to me with the loom etc, and it doesnt have the relay plugged in! I dont know if its been removed or not? :?

 

Yep. The OBD2 loom will plug straight into the back of your Corrado fuse/Relay board.

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Cheers cheese, I figured it probably did!

 

Well its all ready to fire up now, but it doesnt want to for some reason or other! Could have something to do with the immobiliser thingy bobby bits, I wired them up to where they were on the golf, but no joy :?

 

I had VAG COM plugged in to the two OBD ports I have now and could read the ABS fault codes, but no signal from controller when I try the engine :?

 

When the Immobiliser is activated on the mk3s can you still code read the ECU ?

 

Going to speak to Vince later and maybe he can help me as Im pretty stumped at the minute!

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the immobiliser box has live and earth?

 

you wont be able to read engine fault codes if the immobiliser box isnt wired in properly.

 

you should have

 

black = +12v

brown = earth

grey/white = grey wire from engine loom

grey = grey/white to obd port

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Excellent, some great progress there!

 

"engine start blocked by immobiliser" is quite common. If and when you run it, you'll find the engine will start, then immediately stop.

 

In the immobiliser part of VAG-COM, it will tell you if the key or coil is defective. Did Vince tell you he's found a way to bypass the immobiliser? Might be worth doing.

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I got a list of the net last night in pdf, very handy! The code that popped up in the immobilizer section was in fact the faulty key code!

I did speak to Vince about bypassing but he charges £176 for the service, which is is about half a remap!

I cant really afford it to be honest, but I may have to!

I was wondering how much it costs to get a key coded at the dealers?

Ive only really got saturday on the car, so fingers crossed Ill have it running!

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IIRC, key coding is not cheap at VW and they need access to the ECU aswell AFAIK. I'm sure it is around £150 or so, going from memory of previous posts. I know that programming current model keys is around that much (including a new key obviously).

 

So on that basis, Vince's charge of £176 seems quite reasonable to forget the immob once and for all 8)

 

When I had OBD2, I just taped the key inside the coil and strapped both under the dash as I used my alarm's immob instead. Saves changing the barrels in the column and doors 8)

 

Where did you get the OBD2 kit from? Was the key the proper one for your ECU?

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I was going to do the same and tape up the key and hide it. I emailed bigpants baby to ask if all the bits came from the same car, and as I thought, yes he was apparently using it before it was dismantled. I may be driving up to Stealth on Saturday the way its going!

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I suspect that although the immobiliser has been removed, the ECU will still moan about the hardware not being there, but it shouldn't stop it from starting.

 

No fuel or spark usually means the crank sensor is dead. Even if the immob was connected and dead or alive, the engine would start and then immediately stop with the error "Engine start blocked by immob".

 

Not starting at all points to something else I reckon. I do know that OBD2 uses a plastic bodied crank sensor instead of the metal one OBD1 uses, but the two should be compatible....

 

I would speak to Vince as he is the only one with enough knowledge and tools to sort it....

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