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dirtytorque

Whats a ball park figure to get an engine bored out?

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I did consider doing a 1.9 but it just seemed to be a case of handing over some cash and there you go 1.9ltrs and I had always wanted to do a 2ltr Audi 3A bottom end engine conversion to my old mk2 8v. So I've got and audi 3A block and crank in the garage now and just waiting for the rest of the 83mm cast pistons to turn up and funds to arrive to get the engine to a local machine shop and have it built but it could be looking like I'll have to get custom rods made but still researching that one. 1.8 - 1.9 just doesn't excite me 1.9 - 2.008 does,and it makes life easier when you want more torque over more of the rev range when sticking with a G60. Take a look at blue_joes torque curve for proof of that!

 

Ok first things first.

Source a block.

 

Will any vw/audi 2 litre 4 pot with a bore/stroke of 82.5/92.8 mm do ?

The RP and AAM passat engine codes have a compression ratio of 9.0:1 so I thought this block might make a good starting point ?!

 

Will I need the transmission from said block or world a G60 tran bolt on ?

 

Also I have read that PG and H1 blocks have improved oil/water ways to cope with the stresses of a supercharged engine,is it Russian roulette picking a block from N/A engine?

 

err..I thinks that all for now.

Thanks in advance

Robert.

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I did consider doing a 1.9 but it just seemed to be a case of handing over some cash and there you go 1.9ltrs and I had always wanted to do a 2ltr Audi 3A bottom end engine conversion to my old mk2 8v. So I've got and audi 3A block and crank in the garage now and just waiting for the rest of the 83mm cast pistons to turn up and funds to arrive to get the engine to a local machine shop and have it built but it could be looking like I'll have to get custom rods made but still researching that one. 1.8 - 1.9 just doesn't excite me 1.9 - 2.008 does,and it makes life easier when you want more torque over more of the rev range when sticking with a G60. Take a look at blue_joes torque curve for proof of that!

 

Ok first things first.

Source a block.

 

Will any vw/audi 2 litre 4 pot with a bore/stroke of 82.5/92.8 mm do ?

The RP and AAM passat engine codes have a compression ratio of 9.0:1 so I thought this block might make a good starting point ?!

 

Will I need the transmission from said block or world a G60 tran bolt on ?

 

Also I have read that PG and H1 blocks have improved oil/water ways to cope with the stresses of a supercharged engine,is it Russian roulette picking a block from N/A engine?

 

err..I thinks that all for now.

Thanks in advance

Robert.

 

I'm not sure whether any block will do - I doubt it!

 

But yes the PG and H1 block does have MUCH improved oil and waterways to cope with the large amount of heat it creates. Also I know some blocks don't have the oil squirters which is a big no no! This is the much discussed problems with the TSR engine conversions!

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The reason I choose a 3A audi block is:

 

1: It has the same deck height as a PG. So no complications there.

2: It it dimensionaly the same as the PG with regards to ancillary bolt holes etc.

3: It's got piston oil jets.

4: It can take a 92.8mm crank without modification.

5: You can buy the whole car for £150 and sell bits off of it so you get bottom end for free. And even make a profit!

 

And so on. But there are other options. The only modification to the PG block that I know of is the plate covered hole on the pulley end to allow more cooling to cylinder number one. Anyone know of any others? I'd be interested to know!

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ctwg60,can you expand a bit on the importance of the 220 mm block height.

Is is to get the proper CR or does it have to do with fitting the engine ancillaries to the block,or both?

 

thnks.

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The the 9A and ABF Blocks are what you call "Tall Blocks" they are 10mm higher which can lead to probs with exhaust downpipes etc! Not so bad in a Mk2 Golf but in a C where the downpipes pass under the firewall and through the tunnel it is damn tight!

 

IIRC the 6A block is exactly the same dimensionaly to the PG/KR lumps so if you can find one it makes life a whole lot easier!

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If your block is taller than standard you can have the following problems:

 

1: Exhaust manifold (especially big aftermarket ones) touching the body and other areas with engine movement.

2: Bonnet clearance issues which can mean rubbed sound insulation or running without cambelt cover.

3: Ancillary mounting, alternator, G60 bracket.

4: Valve timing issues which means running an aftermarket adjustable timing wheel.

 

Some/all of the above may not be of importance to some people but I want my engine bay appear stock as much as possible. Anyone have experience of actually fitting a taller block may be able to inform you with a little more detail/information. I maybe wrong on some of the above points as I have never actually fitted a taller block.

 

EDIT: I think the 6A is the 3A block with 16v pistons, again I maybe wrong.

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ive got a 1900cc G60 in my corrado, and as mentioned a few times, its fairly expensive to do.

i wanted to retain the G60ness of my car aswell which it has done.

i used a G60 block with some forged pistons (cant remember the size) with the standard crank and rods.

a set of pistons will cost you about 500 quid, machine work on the block about 150 quid

you will want/need to do some head work aswell to compliment the bottom end work, perhaps CNC head or at least a cam upgrade. bigger injectors and a remap will also be needed.

any labour work will also needed to be taken into account.

some nice power and torque gains without ringing the neck of the supercharger. perhaps alot of money compared to a BAM or AGU conversion but it all depends on what you want from the car.

it can be alot of ballache and i think if i was in the same position again, i would go different route, but hey, such is life

just make sure you save plenty of money for all the little things that add up

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it can be alot of ballache and i think if i was in the same position again, i would go different route, but hey, such is life

 

what would you do Rob?

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when i decided to go down the 1.9 route, i had wrecked my block and no.1 piston, so i needed to start the bottom end from scratch. knowing what i know now, and seeing what can and has been done, i would go 1.8 20V turbo. i dont think the cost would have been that different for me, and we all know how tunable that engine is. the G60 is really cheap to get to 220bhp, but after that its quite expensive. its a nice simple engine (the G60), but its hard to justify the expense compared to the results if you know what i mean. im sure its the same for the VR6 boys, spending thousands on manifold and cams for a reletively small gain in power. this is just my 2 pence worth though

so if anyone has a cheap 20V turbo motor going, let me know!

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when i decided to go down the 1.9 route, i had wrecked my block and no.1 piston, so i needed to start the bottom end from scratch. knowing what i know now, and seeing what can and has been done, i would go 1.8 20V turbo. i dont think the cost would have been that different for me, and we all know how tunable that engine is. the G60 is really cheap to get to 220bhp, but after that its quite expensive. its a nice simple engine (the G60), but its hard to justify the expense compared to the results if you know what i mean. im sure its the same for the VR6 boys, spending thousands on manifold and cams for a reletively small gain in power. this is just my 2 pence worth though

so if anyone has a cheap 20V turbo motor going, let me know!

 

interesting read. its turbo the PG block vs 1.8T for me...

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is it only the 6a and 3a engines that are 220 mm in height.

 

what about the later audi 80 2 litre engines.i.e the ACE,ABK or the ADW ??

 

I know the ABK is 82.5/92.8 mm bore and stroke.

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I havent actually sat down and worked out what i have spent as im sure it would only upset me!

I would say its in the region of 3500 to 4000 on the engine. not including a charger but that does include a manifold.

its completely up to you guys what you do though, i can only give my opinion from my experiences.

Rob

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I havent actually sat down and worked out what i have spent as im sure it would only upset me!

I would say its in the region of 3500 to 4000 on the engine. not including a charger but that does include a manifold.

its completely up to you guys what you do though, i can only give my opinion from my experiences.

Rob

 

I wish I only spent that much!

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I'm just curious,

 

I'm well aware that in terms of the power/£ is probably not as high as another conversion.

I've already stated makeing my plans now anyway. :)

 

So you were/are not happy with the end result then?

Not what you anticipated power or drive wise??

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i did do alot of the work myself though. most of that cost was parts.

no installation

the biggest problem for me is the fact that the whole process was a pain in the arse for me, so i cant really enjoy the end result if that makes sense. if someone else was to have my car, im sure they would have a ball, but ive had enough of it if you know what i mean. the fun has been taken out of it.

i know it all sounds like doom and gloom, but that is just my take on it. the engine is good, but it has been tainted by the hassle i think

Rob

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Rob_b

I always find that if you struggle doing something it makes the end result sweeter when all comes good?!

But I can see where your coming from...

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Rob_b

I always find that if you struggle doing something it makes the end result sweeter when all comes good?!

But I can see where your coming from...

 

i can see your point also

i have gone past that point im afraid!! :roll:

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I know what you mean Rob_B. Every time you decide to change/do something to a G60 (and other cars I suppose) you take a monetary risk but you also take an emotional one.

 

When I decided to do the exhaust on my car I had that much hassle, bad luck, conflicting advise or lack of advise and problems I was dreaming about it and having bad nights sleep. But what makes it really difficult for me is when you realise it all could so easily have been avoided. At the end of the day I see it as playing with fire, it's fantastic fun but when it all goes horribly wrong it isn't any fun at all.

 

I'm just really careful about who I buy stuff off and take all advise with a pinch of salt. If it doesn't add I work it all out for myself from now on, then there is only me to blame if something goes wrong which I can deal with alot easier. I haven't fallen out with anyone that had anything to do with the exhaust on my car, and neither can be blamed for the hassle I had with it, sometimes it just all goes wrong wrong wrong.

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Here's an example. I got a set of audi S2 front brake calipers. stripped them down myself had them replated then took them to a established engineering company that do work for rolls royce to get one threaded hole on each caliper retapped due to damage. A week later they phone me up to say that they are ready and when I go to pick them up he tells me the engineer has retapped all the holes in both calipers.

 

OK I can deal with that give me a discount and I'll get some custom braided hoses and some more larger threaded nipples. Take them to the brake and clutch place and they inform me that that two of the threads have been badly tapped and the calipers are scrap.

 

I took them back to the engineering place and they said if they can't repair them they'll replace them, which I thought ok here we go another f'ing nightmare but good enough and true to his word one week later I had a set of refurbed calipers ready to paint and fit.

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I know what you mean Rob_B. Every time you decide to change/do something to a G60 (and other cars I suppose) you take a monetary risk but you also take an emotional one..

 

very true my friend

 

 

I was dreaming about it and having bad nights sleep..

 

been there and done that. the worst dreams are the ones where you dream its fixed and running, then you wake up and its still in bits and broken!!! :brickwall:

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