Booked into Stealth for head rebuild, chains & tensioners...

[monzablau16v 0]

Hi all,

 

Just wanted to know opinions and suggestions from people who have had chains/clutch done on what else to do at the same time. I have the VR booked into Stealth and Vince will be doing the following:

 

Chains & Tensioners:

Confirmed that later style MK4 tensioner will be used :)

1 x Bolt, tensioner for Golf Mk4 top pad 021 109 507B

1 x Tensioner, Golf Mk4 top pad 021 109 509E

 

 

Head Rebuild :

Car is on 130K so is being treated to a standard head rebuild (read that g/flowing a VR head is not really that beneficial?)

 

Question : Next year I will be looking to supercharge the car 8) . Is there any particular headasket I should be getting Vince to put on? i.e is there a particular headgasket which is better to use for a supercharged engine AND will allow me to run the car adequately without the supercharger being fitted right now?

 

Answer : Normal Head Gasket will be fine for s/charged VR

 

Clutch & Gearbox rebuild with Peloquin & Fidanza

Obvioulsy the clutch is being done at the same time as chains/tensioners - I am going for a standard Sachs jobbie. I have decided to get the g/box rebuilt to freshen things up and also read good things about converting to a 3.68 FD so have that going in as well. Also got a Peloquin diff being installed and a Fidanza lightened flywheel put on. Yaay

 

Question : Is the sachs clutch fine for dealing with the extra torque/power that fitting the s/c will provide?

 

Answer : SACHS will be fine for around 280ft/lb of torque

 

Raceland 6-Branch & Miltek CAT bypass

At the moment I am awaiting my Raceland 6-Branch to be delivered from Strictly dubs (off eBay). I want this prior to handing it over to Stealth as I want to heat wrap it.

 

Question : Does anyone have a contact number for Strictly dubs apart from 01621 778 811? I urgently need to get hold of them as its been over a week since i purchased it and have had no responses to my emails. The phone just rings and rings :( If anyone does - please can you PM me the details. Funny thing was I managed to chat to Simon about a week before making the puchase and got through to him without any problems :confused4:

 

Answer : Got through in the end... not great news but gonna have to live with it.

 

Misc

VF Engineering mounts all round (front, rear and g/box)

Blue Igniter HT Leads

Neuspeed 180 Degree 3 Pole Fan Switch

alloy crack pipe (http://www.gruvenparts.com/)

alloy tensioner pully

288mm calipers with standard VAG discs and EBC Greenstuff Pads

 

 

I would ideally like the following done at the same time:

 

(i) Plastic Thermostat housing replaced

(ii) Coolant sensors + other sensors replaced at same time (will order them from VAG)

(iii) Coolant pipes - trying hard to justify spending over £250 on bloody Samco silly cone pipes! :shock: Any alternatives welcome?

 

Question : Apart from a rolling road session, what else do you suggest is wothwhile doing at the same time?

You know those little fiddly things which are just easier whilst things are apart!

 

 

Answer :

 

Bought the following new parts to go on:

 

Oil Pump

Crank Sensor

Cam Pos Sensor

Coolant Sensors

Dipstick (old one was manky and a new one is like a fiver from the stealers)

Goodridge Braided hoses all round

 

 

 

Your input is greatly appreciated!

 

cheers

H

[steve @ 0]

mines at stealth as we speak having the chains, clutch and head rebuilt. I am also using the Mkiv top pad and tensioner. As for head gasket, standard if your supercharging it (thats what i am going for). I am also having the oil pump replaced as mine has done 154k. Thought it was best to change it, after all it is the heart of the engine!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Some good mods there, especially the Pelloquin and 3.68. The latter will make it feel livlier in the higher gears, but without ruining refinement or hammering economy too much either.

 

It's generally only recommended to mess with the head flow when you have increased the capacity with at least 83mm bore. And even then all you need are 1mm larger valves, gasket matched intake ports, and that's it.

 

Gas flowing will achieve comparatively little on a stock motor, but it may be of small benefit to forced induction engines.

 

Clutch - I wouldn't use a Sachs one, and especially not from GSF as they're rubbish. A dealer one is a better bet. Ask Vince about 'Kev Hayward's' history of clutch changes when using sachs ones from GSF :lol:

 

If you're not planning on big power, then stock will do. If you want to eventually walk the turbo path, and many people are these days due to the very weak dollar, then I would recommend fitting a Helix Autosport clutch now, rather than later.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Usually when you ask to get a place to do your chains they include the thermostat when they add it all up mines in psi at the moment and dont you find its boring without your car cant wait till saturday though should be back to its old self! Also when a head has been rebuilt do i have to run it in before pushing it ??

[monzablau16v 0]

Excellent - just the kind of info i needed! Keep it all coming 8)

 

Oil Pump - thinking about it, I am probably going to get it done...as you say its pretty important.

 

ECP seems to list gen VAG ones at £93.21 +vat. Anyone know any place cheaper for gen VW pumps?

http://www.car-partsonline.co.uk have it marginally cheaper at £90 + VAT

 

 

Kev (im guessing that is you Cheesewire) ... what would everyday driving be like with the Helix clutch? I use my VR6 as my everyday car so it still needs to be drivable. Also - got any links to part no's / prices / suppliers for the clutch? Thanks for the other info too.

 

Gonna drop Vince a call to see if changing the thermo housing is included in the costs - i dont believe it is. Want to nip down to VW tomorrow and order the other little bits and bobs . Yaay more money being thrown into the car.... oh well, you only live once right? :lol:

[dukest 0]

Also spoke to Vince about all of this work (minus gearbox refresh) today as I have Schrick mani and cams to go on. Was wanting to know if he could check the state of the head when fitting them so I know whether it needed attention as and when clutch & chains need doing. He basically said that by my 135k miles the head would need work anyway so it should all be done together. Good to know, but painful at the same time! :)

 

Hadn't thought about the oil pump and am too much of a luddite :( to know about the intricacies of thermostats etc but will watch this with interest to see what else I should be planning to include whenever I'm feeling brave enough to part with almost the value of the car in precautionary maintenance and mild upgrades..!

[Crasher 3]

Wouldn't an exchange VAG engine (late tensioners, metal gasket etc already done) make more sense at £2804.34 including VAT? At 135K ring wear is going to be a problem sooner or later.

[dukest 0]

Its a point thats worth making yeah.. :(

 

Obviously any engine replacement is an ideal thing to do, and it does worry me slightly, but then I'm assuming if it looks bad when the head comes off then whoever is doing the work can point that out to you and you can decide whether to go on?? The figure your quoting though is still twice what the clutch/chains/head work costs so they're not really close enough to say "oh I'll spend that little extra".

[monzablau16v 0]

Just spoke to Vince,

 

Confirmed that coolant sensor housing (plasic housing with three holes!) is not included in the cost of the chains/tensioners. They check the condition of the items when removing and if they need replacing then this is done (but the cost is added to your bill)

 

Shopping list from VW (prices quoted are those from my local VW stealers):

 

Plastic HOUSING

021 121 117 A

£22.87 +VAT

 

Temp sender with switch for coolant temp (4 pin blue/white 20mm)

701 919 369 D

£22.80 +VAT

 

Temp sensor (ntc engine control 2 pin blue)

025 906 041 A

£12.21 +VAT

 

round seal (x3)

903 168 02

£0.87 +VAT each

 

Crank Sensor

021 906 433 A

£70.38 +VAT

 

Cam Position Sensor

021 907 601 A

£35.30 +VAT

 

 

would anyone like to confirm the part number for the Crank sensor and CPS are correct for a Rado 95 VR6?

 

thanking you nicely :lol:

[the delta force 0]

How much have Stealth quoted? I've got a 1990 1.8 16v with 132 on the clock and looking to get a rebuild early next year?. Have had mine for about 4 years and need to start getting ideas and investing?

[dukest 0]

obviously we're talking about 12v VRs here but Vince quoted me about 400 plus vat for just a head rebuild (without fitting) yesterday.

[Jim Bowen 1]

i best get saving, has anyone here ever got a new engine from VW?

[monzablau16v 0]

Stealth charges :

 

CAMCHAIN/TENSIONERS + CLUTCH (price includes parts like clutch, tensioners etc...)

 

approx £750 + VAT

 

i'd do the following whilst its all apart:

 

Repair Kit crank/lower timing case oil seal - 681 981 71 - £24.66

Lever clutch release arm - 02J 141 719 B - £9.67

Screw flywheel fixing bolts (10) - N90539801 - £0.82 each

 

 

If doing the head rebuild at the same time the total cost (again inclusive of the parts)

 

£1450 + VAT

[Jim Bowen 1]

thats not so bad actually

[monzablau16v 0]

Ok, just got back from ECP...

 

Picked up a "genuine" oil pump but not 100% sure its genuine? Their website states genuine on it ...

 

The make is Meyle if that helps and its ECP part number : 323 440 400.

Price : £93.91 + VAT

 

Anyone confirm?

 

Also picked up a crank sensor £64.95 + VAT (bloody hell!!!)

 

Was a bit peeved with them as when i called in the morning for prices on the parts, the guy came out with £20 for the sensor! I asked him 3 times if he was sure about the price ... and even got him to confirm the VW part number as : 026 906 433A.

 

Low and behold... i turn up to order the bits and its suddenly £64.95 +VAT

 

muppets!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Pump - Yes, sounds about right.

 

Crank sensor - That's actually cheap. They used to 140 quid with the VAT.

 

The reason ECP struggled with the price is because it shows as "impulse sender" on their screen.....and there's 2....one for the cam (sequential timing) and one for the crank. It takes them (and the dealers) quite a while to drill it down to the precise sensor. It's VW's fault for being vague with the parts descriptions.

 

As for the Helix clutch, yep, done 8000 miles with mine and it's fine. Slightly heavier than stock, but it can take twice the torque.....but it's about £350 though! So if you are definitely planning on going over 300hp in the future, you'd be wise to stick that in now. If not a stocker will hold to about 280-300lb/ft torque.

[corozin 0]

Hi all,

Raceland 6-Branch & Miltek CAT bypass

At the moment I am awaiting my Raceland 6-Branch to be delivered from Strictly dubs (off eBay). I want this prior to handing it over to Stealth as I want to heat wrap it.

 

Question : Does anyone have a contact number for Strictly dubs apart from 01621 778 811? I urgently need to get hold of them as its been over a week since i purchased it and have had no responses to my emails. The phone just rings and rings :( If anyone does - please can you PM me the details. Funny thing was I managed to chat to Simon about a week before making the puchase and got through to him without any problems :confused4:

 

Interesting to see your post, as I also purchased a 6 branch from that same company on eBay last Wednesday night and havn't heard anything from them about delivery yet, even though I asked for a confirm email. At least I have thier phone number now.

 

I'll PM you if my current situation changes - would you agree to drop me a PM if your part arrives before mine does? I'm starting to get the feeling that he's not keeping the parts in stock...

 

John

[double-6s 0]

i best get saving, has anyone here ever got a new engine from VW?

 

 

I put a brand new VAG VR engine in mine a while back. Sourced it cheap via ebay though, as a seperate head and bottom end. Still in VAG box! :)

[dukest 0]

i best get saving, has anyone here ever got a new engine from VW?

I put a brand new VAG VR engine in mine a while back. Sourced it cheap via ebay though, as a seperate head and bottom end. Still in VAG box! :)

who was selling it Will? that must have been like a one in a million chance right?! :)

[double-6s 0]

i best get saving, has anyone here ever got a new engine from VW?

I put a brand new VAG VR engine in mine a while back. Sourced it cheap via ebay though, as a seperate head and bottom end. Still in VAG box! :)

who was selling it Will? that must have been like a one in a million chance right?! :)

 

Some dude up north mate. Mr Stanley 24v picked it up for me which was very kind :)

 

It's now in JayGT's rado with about 10k miles on it.

 

It was supposedly the last in a batch of brand new factory engines. I haven't seen one since.

[Stan 24v 0]

Some dude up north mate. Mr Stanley 24v picked it up for me which was very kind :)

 

It's now in JayGT's rado with about 10k miles on it.

 

It was supposedly the last in a batch of brand new factory engines. I haven't seen one since.

 

I actually sold him a head too (I know it was a different to what you used Wiliam!!)!! :lol:

 

I was gonna buy the block to recon my engine in the first place, but chose the 24v route instead 8)

[KipVR 1]

Its a point thats worth making yeah.. :(

 

Obviously any engine replacement is an ideal thing to do, and it does worry me slightly, but then I'm assuming if it looks bad when the head comes off then whoever is doing the work can point that out to you and you can decide whether to go on?? The figure your quoting though is still twice what the clutch/chains/head work costs so they're not really close enough to say "oh I'll spend that little extra".

 

It's best to put a viewing probe down the plugholes and see what state the bores and valve seats are in before you start to crack the engine open, after having done a leakdown test first obviously.... What is the point of putting a good head on a 135k block? It'll cost you more in the long run if you are planning on keeping the car, especially if you are charging it. Ditch the charger plans for a year and spend the cash on a good platform that you can build on :lol: . You can sell your current engine for a few hundred quid to help finace it too.

[dukest 0]

Thanks and I hope this isn't hijacking monzablau's thread too much.

 

Not planning on charging the car and also it doesn't do many miles either so I'm hoping that the block could do another 50k over 10 years if its in ok condition at the moment. Will get it inspected though as you say - if it looks suspect then a whole new set of options opens up!

[monzablau16v 0]

Thanks and I hope this isn't hijacking monzablau's thread too much.

 

Not planning on charging the car and also it doesn't do many miles either so I'm hoping that the block could do another 50k over 10 years if its in ok condition at the moment. Will get it inspected though as you say - if it looks suspect then a whole new set of options opens up!

 

naaah no bother. I am sure that between you lot, your posts have already helped me out in some shape or form (I abuse that little search button up top too much) :lol:

 

Gonna stick some piccies of all the goodies soon. Also getting a 2.9 inlet manifold powder coated black along with the 288 brake carriers n a few ods n sods. Shoud come out nice

[dukest 0]

you're definitely doing the job properly, your car's gonna be transformed after all that work! 8)

 

have you had your bores checked as our cars are similar mileage? you're not overly concerned, as suggested by some here, that you're looking at a lot of work on top of a block thats done a reasonable chunk of miles? I'm just trying to keep a sense of perspective on it all!