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Toad

Yellow temp sender for vr6

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Thanks for that in depth post, kev.

 

As I say, my water temp sits at 70 when doing 70-80mph in 5th gear on motorway run at this time of year. It does readily shift up to 80-100C or so in town traffic, though, and the fans do come on OK. Consumption 28mpg in town/plus a little A-road, and up to 34mpg on long run seems OK?

 

Presumably my gauge is not accurate below about 90C?

 

Chris Gaskell, on CCGB says, IIRC, VR6 takes around 12 minutes to get oil up to 80C - I have found this to be so myself.

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Re checking temperature values using VAG_COM.

 

Dont really have experience of this tool. I expect there could be stuff for beginners somewhere using search, but I do not recall seeing anything over the years I have been on here.

 

Also, will its price have come down for use with 1995 cars, anyone?

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1) A knackered guage or sender. The gauge was £25 from VW last time I checked, but things do change! Clips into the existing gauge panel easily. If in doubt, use VAG-COM as it reads the sender directly, if both are 70, replace the sender and try again. Obviously if the sender says 95 and the gauge 70.....you know the drill ;-)

 

So... The temp reading from VAG com, on the measuring blocks is direct from the yellow temp sender? I thought it was from the blue one? If it is direct from the yellow one, then it's my gauge that is knackered...

 

I've phoned my local dealer and a temp gauge with integrated fuel level gaue for a vr is £118 with VAT... :( :( :shock: :shock:

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Ok, i only just spotted this thread and as i see 70degs c water readings i will repost the info i stuffed in the other thread:

 

It used to display temps as the cheesman described ( bang on the middle 100 , up to 110 during a rake ), before i put the nuspeed stat and the new yellow sensor in ( in fact i replaced all the sensors with VAG kit ). I also put a new rad sensor in. this was a nuspeed job. I cant remeber if it is a lower switching one ...

 

I was worried about it overfueling too, but a warm hc emmissions readout says 5ppm (see this 'thread'). I also checked the mpg over 500 odd motorway miles this w/e and i got 240mls to 1/2 a tank. Would unburnt hydrocarbons make it out to the zorst if it was overfueling ?

 

So it doesnt sound like its overfueling at all. Suppose the sender could be a dud. I think the fact that i changed so many things at once may make my problem a bit hard to identify.

 

Easy answer would be to put a standard stat in.

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I've found a gauge from my parts bin ;) and am going to wack it in one evening... looks simple enough to do in half an hour or so... probably will take all night though. Gonna try that next I think.

 

 

ReekieVR does the bottom rad hose get warm soon then? Does it ever get above 70?

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I havnt felt the bottom hose during it warming up ( ooo-er ) but it does reach ~ 90 in traffic. Will do some hose temp research tomorrow.

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I want to say lots of rude words...

 

I eventually got the gauge surround off after searching for screwdrivers in just the right legnth and size and fitted a differenct temp and fuel gauge unit.

 

The temp read 100+ plus whilst driving around still. Admitedly it overread by less, but, it still overread. And I found this out too late to go and pick up my other replacement temp sender.... Testicles.

 

Any ideas?? Jim has mentioned voltage regulator issues in this thread Could these be part of my issue??? I'm really losing patience with this problem now...

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does the yellow temp sender stick out further than the other two? My fans didnt kick in today and temp mwnt up to 95ish which it normally doesnt do. Oil only went up to 98 but there was a good clear run so the water came down quickly. Had a look at the sensors and the yellow one was sitting about 5mm proud of the other two. Tried removing the clip and pushing it in but it didnt want to move. Dont know if this was the problem? Fans came on ok when teh aircon switch was pressed though. Confusing...

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Can't remember but if the clip is in place then it can't be fitted wrongly...

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Is this yellow 4-pin sender (now blue/black if replaced) a likely reason for my VR to be reading 100+ coolant temp and 100+ oil temp via VAGCOM / ECU, while the coolant needle reads around 80?

 

The fan doesn't seem to kick in quickly enough either, not until the coolant needle reads 90+ (which it only gets to if you have teh engine running and let it sit stationary for 5 mins - which I suspect is much hotter than 90!)

 

Also, is it fair to I assume that the yellow sender requires the same O-ring as the blue ECU-coolant sender? ie o-ring N 903 168 02

 

Ta

 

Chris

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I live in a Hot and Humid country and afternoons will get upto 34-36deg. and my Rado use to read 100 before the fans kick in and oil temps read 112-116 constantly in mix and city driving and I run a mocal oil cooler sanvich plate with a 5 row 6inch long oil cooler!! I have checked the the temps on the hoses using a laser temp gauge and the fans does kic in at 93deg and shuts at 88deg. I conclude that the gauge is out or the yellow temp is out....so do not really now...

 

I have gotten fed up of this and got my garage to remove the thermostat for both the Rad and oil cooler and replaced the fan switch with a transporter TDi one that kick on at 83 or 84 deg. result---oil temp will be at 80+deg within 10mins from start up in the morning and water temps will reach 80+deg within 12-15min. I still see 91-92 deg on the gauge but suspect this is closer to 85deg! I ahd a spare yellow swith in my parts bin which I replace with.Oil temps are still pretty high at 104-110deg depending on outside temps and 112-116deg if I give it the welly!!I am not sure on the oil temps which sender is this? Any help on this will be appreciated.

 

I could feel that the entire engine bay is now a lot cooler, in past it would be burning hot even to touch the bonnet stay rod! In my the climate I lived in I had no choice but to take the above drastic action before i blow either the rad or engine at some point. I felt the engine warm has not change much with and without the thermostats owing to the hot climate that I live in.

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Is this yellow 4-pin sender (now blue/black if replaced) a likely reason for my VR to be reading 100+ coolant temp and 100+ oil temp via VAGCOM / ECU, while the coolant needle reads around 80?

 

The fan doesn't seem to kick in quickly enough either, not until the coolant needle reads 90+ (which it only gets to if you have teh engine running and let it sit stationary for 5 mins - which I suspect is much hotter than 90!)

 

Also, is it fair to I assume that the yellow sender requires the same O-ring as the blue ECU-coolant sender? ie o-ring N 903 168 02

 

Ta

 

Chris

 

Well, it could be either the sender for the gauges, or the ecu temp sender being out. What does VAG-COM say the temp is when the fans cut in?

 

Might be worth replacing both sensors...

 

And yeah I'm pretty much certain that it's the same O-ring.

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Well, it could be either the sender for the gauges, or the ecu temp sender being out. What does VAG-COM say the temp is when the fans cut in?

 

Might be worth replacing both sensors...

 

And yeah I'm pretty much certain that it's the same O-ring.

 

Cool, thanks. I've got a blue one and am awaiting a yellow (now black) one from Nottm VW today, along with o rings.

 

Not sure on the fan cut-in speeds on VAGCOM, as I only got a look briefly. I'll swap both the blue and yellow sensors, plus the rad / fan control sensor and see how it goes. Fingers crossed!

 

C

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Oil temps are still pretty high at 104-110deg depending on outside temps and 112-116deg if I give it the welly!!I am not sure on the oil temps which sender is this? Any help on this will be appreciated.

 

I've just replaced this on mine - on a VR it sits at the back left of the oil filter housing, Black & Green wire. If you have aircon, then easiest access is by removing the drivers side headlight and the oil dipstick. Even then its fiddly. You also need a 14mm deep socket to remove the sensor. Might as well rewire the connector too, as i did, it will likely have loads of corrosion on it which may also give wrong readings.

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Toad did you ever sort this problem on your VR? my temp gauge is overreading by 20c i think, i have replaced the temp gauge the 3 senders on the houseing but it is still overreading i dont understand and it starting to piss me off any advice would be great

 

cheers

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Which one did you change? blue or yellow? vw gave me a black one as a replacement for the yellow one iam guesing because its discontinued.

cheers

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The yellow one. Yeah, they released a new revision which is black with a blue(??) ring. My new black one wasn't right either, so the one I've thrown back in is yellow.

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I dont know if it is the sensor now, as soon as i start the car the temp gauge will rise to 110c straight away and the LED will flash, it continues to do this throughout the time the engine is on, i have put new clocks in changed the three sensor i have noo idea why the hell it is doing it,

 

U got any ideas mate?

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Coolant level sensor on the coolant bottle.

 

When that senses no coolant, or even when there is just water in there, no coolant, it causes the light to flash. IT could be the sensor, or the connection playing up.

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Its a brand new coolant bottle i though it was that aswell but no nothing, could it be the connection to the bottle? iam really stumpted on this one i have ordered a new yellow sensor to see if that will help.

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how did he go about fixing that? just a new switch? sometimes though if you let the engine idle it will stop flashing and the needle will move down abit but as soon as you touch the throttle it will flash again and rise up i have no idea what could be causeing it

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I know iam not to worried as the fans kick in at the right temps etc, its just so anoying iam begining to loose patience with it iam really stumped at what it could be now though,

 

Iam up in inverness in scotland mate

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