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The Forced Induction 20V Thread

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fusebox white plug G1/12 Is the wire connection to the dash gauge for rev counter from ecu, have you connected up the Vehicle speed sensor wire from fusebox to ecu? if not then that would explain why your rev limit is comming on too early, I would suggest you scan the ecu for faults and go through them one by one

 

 

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

 

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ

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Zyndol, the 1st pic is for a coolant temp sensor. You prob already have a 4-pin sensor wired in. The 4-pin sensor is on the passenger-side end of the head. I can't view the 2nd pic so not sure what that is.

 

\Paddy

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Wire runs down the right hand side of the engine when you are stood in front of it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]77370[/ATTACH]

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If that plug is the speed sensor then it needs to be connected and fed into the ECU,

 

Mine didn't have the speed fed into the ECU when I first built it and it would run rough and jerk about after hard acceleration. I ran the speed sensor to the ECU and it was fine.

 

Mines on an AGU ECU.

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For AUQ:

pin1 black/white -> +12 run power (10A fuse)

pin2 white/blue -> pin 28 on clocks

pin3 -> earth.

 

G28(engine speed sender on engine) supplies the ecu.

 

\Paddy

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Cheers for replys. It is on normal corrado clocks. Is there a plug socket coming from the ecu to be plugged into or is it more complicated than that? Ecu is original but is in the cabin above the dashboard.

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On another subject. I finally managed to fit an air box and remove the crap cone filter that was on it. Its a 4motion air box with 80mm Maf hole. Box smoothed on inside 80mm hole in bottom for 80mm intake to front of car and Piper Ross oilless filter. What a bitch to fit. Kept messing with gear linkage and linking intercooler pipes. Running very well and seems to have smoothed boost issues.

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Hi guys

 

after a bit of advice. im running an auq motor with qpeng.

 

i recently fitted a boost guage to measure whats going on. when idling the guage shows 28-30 hg of vacuum. from what i have been able to find out it should be more like 20-22. when fully boosting it goes to about 14 psi which sounds about right.

its always idled a bit slow when cold and the difference in idle when hot can be a good 150-200rmp. could this be because there is too much vacuum? is that even a thing or do i have a dodgy boost guage? (it was a fairly cheap one off ebay)is there something that could go wrong or not be working properly to cause a state where there is so much vaccum?

 

any advice appreciated

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Wire runs down the right hand side of the engine when you are stood in front of it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]77370[/ATTACH]

 

Turns out it's not the speed sensor as I have located that plug and it is plugged in. It looks very simalair in shape to the speed sensor plug but it is about 2 thirds the size of it.

 

Any ideas?

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Turns out it's not the speed sensor as I have located that plug and it is plugged in. It looks very simalair in shape to the speed sensor plug but it is about 2 thirds the size of it.

 

Any ideas?

 

There is an oil sensor in the back of the sump which I believe has a similar size to that. From what I remember it takes the same path as the speed sensor then goes engine side of the drive shaft to the back of the sump. May be that unless I have the wrong idea?

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I have been stewing on doing an ABF mod to my 8valve but lately I have become more interested in the turbo option

I have a pristine 8 valve but it was a daily driver and is about to hit 200000 miles ......no smoke or oil used and runs like a top. It has had a respray and debadged grille with Borbet A. looks fab

I bought the car due to loving the Corrado shape

As it was going to be a daily driver I chose the 8v as most 16v were driven hard

I run a small racing team and have access to my own rolling road I have a Motec ECU with CDI spark unit that I intend to use and all the sensor that I could possibly need

I am also lucky in that I have access to a full machine shop to do any modding or fabrication.

I want to bolt in the 1,8t and then work on all the extra's over the next year as I have another daily driver now

Now there will be questions

What intercooler to go for as the two options so far are Sprinter and landrover TD5....TD5 seems better so far

I have bought an APP 20VT engine without turbo and will investigate what to do with the lack of turbo next

Ive found an exhaust manifold that accepts a T25 that seems like a better option than going with the stock K03...

What do you think?

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I have been stewing on doing an ABF mod to my 8valve but lately I have become more interested in the turbo option

I have a pristine 8 valve but it was a daily driver and is about to hit 200000 miles ......no smoke or oil used and runs like a top. It has had a respray and debadged grille with Borbet A. looks fab

I bought the car due to loving the Corrado shape

As it was going to be a daily driver I chose the 8v as most 16v were driven hard

I run a small racing team and have access to my own rolling road I have a Motec ECU with CDI spark unit that I intend to use and all the sensor that I could possibly need

I am also lucky in that I have access to a full machine shop to do any modding or fabrication.

I want to bolt in the 1,8t and then work on all the extra's over the next year as I have another daily driver now

Now there will be questions

What intercooler to go for as the two options so far are Sprinter and landrover TD5....TD5 seems better so far

I have bought an APP 20VT engine without turbo and will investigate what to do with the lack of turbo next

Ive found an exhaust manifold that accepts a T25 that seems like a better option than going with the stock K03...

What do you think?

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Quick question / advice.

 

I've got an AUQ engine that i'm fitting to my Corrado. It has a new k03s and 2.5" downpipe with oversized intake tip, fmic etc.

 

I was planning on running standard AGU management on it so I could run a cable throttle body etc. After looking into maps etc, apparently they don't do revo stage 2 maps for the AGU ECU's (obviously i know they have to be bench tested instead of live mapped) and the only other maps for the stage 2 type that I'm going for are around £400+.

 

Is it worth swapping to the AUQ management and getting it mapped instead? All i'd need to do is get a mk4 golf pedal box and weld it to the corrado's (I believe).

 

Opinion? I'd want to keep it standard management too rather than go down the qpeng route etc

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I'm doing a 1.8t 20v conversion on my 1991 16v. I've heard to ditch the dual mass flywheel on the 1.8t 20v you can use g60 flywheel/vr6 clutch. What flywheel bolts, clutch pressure plate bolts and startermotor will I need for the conversion?

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I'm doing a 1.8t 20v conversion on my 1991 16v. I've heard to ditch the dual mass flywheel on the 1.8t 20v you can use g60 flywheel/vr6 clutch. What flywheel bolts, clutch pressure plate bolts and startermotor will I need for the conversion?

 

You can use a 2.0l 16v or G60 flywheel. Use the flywheel bolts for whatever flywheel you use. Can get these new from VW but a bit pricey. I used the same clutch pressure plate bolts from my 2.0l 16v flywheel and you will need either a 2.0l 16v starter motor or g60 one.

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You can use a 2.0l 16v or G60 flywheel. Use the flywheel bolts for whatever flywheel you use. Can get these new from VW but a bit pricey. I used the same clutch pressure plate bolts from my 2.0l 16v flywheel and you will need either a 2.0l 16v starter motor or g60 one.

 

When I did mine I re-used my 2.0 flywheel and bolts (new are probably better) and got a vr6 pressure plate and used the 2.0 starter. All worked fine.

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By 2.0l 16v pressure plate bolts, i mean just the bolts.

 

I used a vr6 clutch kit. So VR6 clutch, pressure plate and release bearing

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Can anyone suggest a good workshop manual that covers the 1.8t 20 calve engine

I have started my 20vt project and busy getting the engine ready

any suggestions

thanks

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