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The Forced Induction 20V Thread

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im doing the conversion next weekend. i dont suppose anyone has a torque guide they could sent me over- flywheel/mounts etc etc. thanks

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Is it worth upgrading the 2.0l 16v Radiator? Looks a little small that's all! Opinions?

 

I run the 16v radiator,have done for the last 40k+ miles,I've had no overheating problems,

Been stuck many times on the orbital car park known as the M25 !

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Awesome! Thanks for the reply mate, just making a list of parts now. Looking at getting a "trackslag" downpipe in the next few weeks!

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what rad/fans are people using. ive just put the engine in. using standard 16v rad but fan motor seems to be sitting too far back into the engine bay catching rad pipes. and help would be great thanks

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I used 2 10" slimline fans. They bolted to the radiator frame.

I think I bought them on ebay. You can see them in 1 of the pics in my build thread.

 

\Paddy

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hi guys i have just done this conversion using vagtronics loom car runs great. just having some issues with rpm, temperature gauge, oil sensor etc... i have phoned up vagtronics and they say they dont get involved with this side of the conversion so im hoping you can help. there are 4 wires that need splicing into the back of the fuse box-

a thin black labeled as oil sensor.

a thin violet labeled as ECT sensor

a thin brown labeled as ECT earth

a thin green labeled as RPM tacho wire

 

i have fitted this to a 94 2.0 corrado. am i right in thinking that the later year corrados dont need a tacho converter?

 

also struggling to find a decent wiring diagram if anyone knows of one floating about?

 

any help would be great! thanks.

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I'm sure this has probably been covered in here before and I don't want to get into a massive debate to whether cone filters increase / decrease or get heat soak e.t.c.

 

All I'm interested about is - Are there any air filters out there for the 1.8t 20v that have proven power gains, or any that anyone has used and got a good result?

 

I'm running a AGU engine and currently it just has a cheaper open cone filter on it but it needs replacing.

Cheers

Tom

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i have phoned up vagtronics and they say they dont get involved with this side of the conversion so im hoping you can help. there are 4 wires that need splicing into the back of the fuse box-

a thin black labeled as oil sensor.

a thin violet labeled as ECT sensor

a thin brown labeled as ECT earth

a thin green labeled as RPM tacho wire

 

 

No after sales support, sounds like a great company to buy the harness from!

 

The wires you mention according to the Bentley manual,

 

a thin black labeled as oil sensor. - which oil sensor is this? temp, low pressure or high pressure, there should be 3 wires going to the cluster

 

a thin violet labeled as ECT sensor - G2/3 which goes through the fuse box to the cluster

 

a thin brown labeled as ECT earth - to ground

 

a thin green labeled as RPM tacho wire -G1/12 (should not need a converter, mine doesn't)

 

More info for cluster wiring here

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3078876-The-unofficial-Cluster-Swap-thread&highlight=early+late+cluster

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I'm sure this has probably been covered in here before and I don't want to get into a massive debate to whether cone filters increase / decrease or get heat soak e.t.c.

 

All I'm interested about is - Are there any air filters out there for the 1.8t 20v that have proven power gains, or any that anyone has used and got a good result?

 

I'm running a AGU engine and currently it just has a cheaper open cone filter on it but it needs replacing.

Cheers

Tom

 

Have you read

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=36539

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Hi, I am unsure if my cluster is digital. its a 91 1.8 16v with an auq now in. I have wired pin2 on the orange connector from the ecu to G1/12 and the tacho needle sits around 3k and bounces randomly occasionally when accelerator is depressed. I initially thought I wouldn't need a tach adapter as I have a digital cluster as it has speedo sender not cable and the odometer is digital. I am now confused to whether I need tach adapter or iv got wiring issues. Any help would be great. I have seen the vwvortex cluster thread and hasn't helped me to identify if mine is digital/analogue.

Thanks.

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Hi diz,

 

do you have a speedo cable? If you do, then its an analogue

 

Which ECU are you using?

 

Hi, no speedo cable just vss on gearbox. Im using the oem auq ecu. So I shouldn't need tach adapter then? Got to be some wiring issues then as iv now got two burnt pin connectors on back of cluster. Looks like i may need a new cluster if a another T28 plug and pins doesn't get it working. Nothing on the cluster is working except bouncing tacho and illumination. Do any other vags use the same T28 cluster connector plug as the rado?

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Mk3s use the same connector but not sure if its pinned the same

 

Just checked the club gti thread and looks like you have the right wire for the tacho

Edited by rado20vT

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Hi all. Haven't been able to find a definite answer. I am Running an auq engine on qpeng management in my c. I want to change the intake manifold for an agu one. Mainly to tidy up the throttle cable fixing. Will this be possible. I.e. will it bolt on to the auq head? I know the port sizes are different and also the injectors. But will that cause any running issues.

Thanks for any info

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Hi two issues with my raddo. One the accelerator pedal keeps getting stuck down after hard boost continuing the car accelerating. It doesn't do it when it is stationary on full revs only when it boosts fully moving. You can get you foot under the pedal And pull it back up. Secondly any idea what this plug is for? Not su

re if it was ever attached.

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Hi issues with my raddo. One the accelerator pedal keeps getting stuck down after hard boost continuing the car accelerating. It doesn't do it when it is stationary on full revs only when it boosts fully moving. You can get you foot under the pedal And pull it back up.

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Figured it . Front engine mount snapped. Engine hitting the bonnet pinning the throttle open and denting bonnet.

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Just finished my conversion. A couple of little things left to sort out. Its was a 2.0 16v 1995 so from what i have read the rpm should work. Can anybody tell me where to take the wire from and where to take it to. Ive read it can be taken from pin 6 on the new ecu?

 

When ive been driving the car about it feels gutless like theres no boost. The dv was making that flutter noise so i changed to a forge 007p there has been a slight improvement in picking up speed but still feels like its holding back.

I have fitted a ko3s and yet to get a remap. Could this be causing the car to not pick up?

cheers!

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I would check for kinks or badly fitted silicone boost pipes. Re routed mine recently and its like a new car.

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Had a funny issue recently while trying to maximise my boost. I have read about this on other forums but no real answers. Basicly when the car boosts in 3rd 4th and 5th it holds bost around 15psi with no drop right through the revs. In 1st and 2nd the boost shoots up to 15psi but drops off very quickly half way through the revs. I'm guessing its not a leak as it holds in other gears.

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i seem to get to 40 in second gear and it jerks a little and sounds like its hitting the redline (not sure if it is as i havnt got the rev counter working yet) and ill have to change gear.same with other gears feels like its hitting the limiter way to early. feels like theres no power at all!

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]77362[/ATTACH]

 

Anyone able to tell me what this random unpluged plug is for? Also on the other picture a three way pipe that goes to the radiator has a plug socket on it, any ideas what this is for? Some sort of temp sensor? The plug doesn't fit the socket before it's said.

 

Engine is an AGU. Car runs absolutly fine so can't be to vital, but making it run better would be great.

Cheers For any help.

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