_leon_ 0 Posted June 14, 2009 can vouch for mocals making a difference to both the corrados i've had Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 14, 2009 Just a short trip today, oil only got up to 70, *but* i reached down to check both the hoses to the cooler and they were both warm, suggesting that oil was going to it. In fact, taking the grille off, the cooler was also quite warm, not hot. But at 70C? I thought the thermo plate opens at 80C? I'll try and check the pipes once it gets to a good temp next time. sounds like theyre warm from engine heat - rather than flowing oil are you 100% set on going 24v Hasan? Almost 100% on the 24V, but i also want to get a better gearbox, which is te main stumbling block right now. Where did the mocal come from? A few people have mentioned that they have had Mocals which have made no difference to oil temps to me in the past. From Ebay (the cooler). the plate etc was from Darren (Gworks). someone mentioned that they mounted the sandwich plate incorrectly, but then turned it around and it improved it no end - i assumed that the rubber seal face mounts against the engine block ie you can only fit it one way around? There is a pic in one of the other threads - i'll post it up in a second.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 14, 2009 can vouch for mocals making a difference to both the corrados i've had Hence my interest in where the mocal came from... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted June 14, 2009 the plate etc was from Darren (Gworks). someone mentioned that they mounted the sandwich plate incorrectly, but then turned it around and it improved it no end - i assumed that the rubber seal face mounts against the engine block ie you can only fit it one way around? There is a pic in one of the other threads - i'll post it up in a second.. As I understand it, the Mocals from Stealth have a specially made plate or end for some reason... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 14, 2009 OK, the sandwich plate (A in the image) - should the machined side (shown upwards in this picture) be against the engine block, with the seal face towards the cap? If so, i've mounted it the wrong way round. I have the seal against the block, then the seal of the cap against the machined sandwich plate face.Oil%20Cooler.jpg[/attachment:1hwse29g] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 15, 2009 Both pipes to the cooler were quite hot today meaning its getting oil. I am going to relocate and perhaps shorten the hoses from the sandwich plate to the cooler. Also, my snadwich plate is oriented with the hoses coming out of the top rather than from the bottom. I suspect a combination of these is the issue. Will post up my findings, and after the rad flush and new pump install. *And* take some pics along the way :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted June 16, 2009 btw, are the Febi water pump and thermostat from VWspares any good or is it a false economy? I know the GSF versions are crap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 3, 2009 Looks like i've got an electrical fault here - recently got 120C on the oil, water still at 95C. But the oil temp was jumping all over the place - up to 120, then down to 104 then every 5 seconds going up 2 degrees to 120 again. Changed the oil, filter, thermostat, flushed the cooling system again about 10 times until the water was pretty clean and relocated the oil cooler pipes (i'll post some pics of this on my thread for anyone who wants to install a mocal with aircon). Today the same sort of thing again - water at 95, but oil going up to 120 and then fluctuating. Oil cooler was hot, too hot to touch - so oil is flowing nicely through it. Fans are also kicking in. So I can only guess that the MFA oil reading is wrong. How do i check this? With VAGCOM? Also, is there any way to check the wiring to the oil temp sensors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 3, 2009 Remake the connection on the oil temp sender with a new spade and / or replace the sender. Happened to me ages ago. Electrical connection gets corroded and sends erroneous signals to the MFA. The sender is bolted into the oil filter housing. Green/black wire IIRC. For the sake of RE my old cooler (sorry, I missed that), no mate, I binned it :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 3, 2009 is this a VAG only part Kev, or will GSF also have it? I'll redo the wiring in any case. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted July 3, 2009 is this a VAG only part Kev, or will GSF also have it? I'll redo the wiring in any case. you around next weekend Hasan? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 4, 2009 yes, you planning to come over? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted July 4, 2009 yeah - am planning to head over to birmingham in the morning - but on my way home was thinking to pop round Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 12, 2009 Leon, good to see you and Zak over the weekend, we'll take some more time again definitely, sorry it was so rushed. Btw, your VR does look superb, just spray the rears with another coat of tinting spray and relacquer them. OK, big thanks to James (Coarrado VR6 Turbo) for correctly diagnosing faulty clocks for the apparently high oil temps i was getting on my car. Swopped teh spare set in there, drove at all speeds, loads of town driving and the highest it got to was 98C. Water was around 95-100 all day, dropping down to 80 on the motorway. The next question is this - how do i repair/rectify the clocks to make sure the oil temp is reading correctly? Or what can i swop from the working clocks to mine to maintain the mileage integrity? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted July 12, 2009 Yeah good to finally meet - like I said about next meet up - you've got a few weeks to source a 24v then! Your interior looks very nice - bit jealous tbh! Agree on the rear lights - going to remove the strips I think and re-laquer then - going with zak's advice I'll wet and dry them back and polish up. Glad the temp issue was indeed the clocks - I'm sure I've read (it could well be on this thread) Kev recently saying you can buy a new part for the gauge for around 15 quid - worth checking on etka Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 13, 2009 true true, need to save the pennies for that. Need to do the auto swop first though, for which i'll have to rope you and zak in to get it finished in a day or two :D I think Haywire mentioned the temp sensor which replaced and rewired too, so it seems thereis something specific in the clocks.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted July 16, 2010 Hi all, having problems with my vr6, engine seems to be very hot, even after a short ride. Temp gauge sits around 90 and oil about 106 c. however the engine seems spanking hot. Just had the timing chains done about 100miles or so ago, and it seems to be starting and running really well. Could there be a problem with the timing or something with the cooling system that may have been messed about during the repairs. I'm a little worried about driving it in this condition even if the gauges are saying things are quite normal Did you ever get to the bottom of why your engine was 'spanking hot' as you put it?? I have the same thing, and again not positive that it is normal. My temps are similar to yours apart from water on mine been a tad higher. And like yours my engine is too hot to touch after just a short run, the cam cover is absolutely too hot to touch and the intake manifold is only slightly cooler! Im going to be adding a mocal soon so that may bring the temps down but heat that comes from the engine after just a short run or idle even is concerning me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 16, 2010 have you checked the temps wit VAGCOM? They tend to drop very quickly so best bet is straight after a hot run, or better still take someone with you to hold the laptop and monitor it. There's some way to log data but i dont know how to do it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted July 17, 2010 i havent checked on vag-com, ill have a play with it today i think, the outlaws are coming round so i will hide in the garage!lol! What should i be monitoring ot looking out for? water temp,oil temp and intake mani temp?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iceviolet 0 Posted July 17, 2010 Right ive had my car plugged into vag com today to do a bit of monitoring. i did a little log of events: 18 degrees outside 10 mins from idle • Oil 60C • Water 82C • Intake temp 30C • Timing flickering between 3.8 and 6.0 (3.8,4.5,5.3,6.0)occasionally 6.8 • 680 rpm 20 mins - cam cover too hot to touch, manifold very warm(can still put hand on it) • Oil 86C • Water 93C • Intake 43.4C • Timing same • Rpm same Fan kicked in at 93.8C 30 mins • Oil 94 • Water hitting 96.6 then fan comes on to bring back down to 93.8 • Intake 55.5C • Timing same • Rpm same 35 mins- can hold my hand on manifold for approximately 2 seconds - cam cover red hot • Oil 96C • Water same • Intake 59.5C • Timing same • Rpm same Turned engine off, fan comes on straight away, going on and off for a while afterwards too. Turned back on and found button to log results in excel, SEE THE PDF, anybody notice anything unusual?? a few questions i have are: Are the fans kicking in too late?? is the timing too retarted?? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
