VR6 Rebuild

[t4slc 0]

how did you get oil spray jets out of the block? i have looked around and can not see how one would remove them.

 

If i remember correctly, i turned the block upside down, then just poked them out. Obviously the bearing shells need to be removed before hand. I Think i used a 4mm drill bit and just gave them a slight tap with the hammer shaft, they arent in tight, in fact i think one just dropped out when i tipped up the block. Then to put them back in i used a 6mm punch, just tap them in until they are home.

 

i am gonna give that a try tomorrow. if it dont come out ill smash the block of the floor >

[iceviolet 0]

Think its about time the Corrado came out of hibernation, its been sat in the garage since november! MOT booked in for 12 o'clock today! Keeping fingers crossed! it has passed the last two with no problems at all, maybe my luck will have run out this time! I have changed a steering rack boot, abs sensor, front top mounts and radiator top hose at the weekend. So fingers crossed it doesnt fail on something stupid like emmisions!!!

[iceviolet 0]

Yep, luck ran out this year!! :(

Needs 3 new brake pipes that come out of the bias valve, going to get the garage to do it as i just cant be arsed with doing them.

So should be back on the road Thursday at last!!

[iceviolet 0]

Hello there! Havent updated this thread for a while, done a little bit of work on the car since the last one. Been losing the love for the corrado recently though. I have found out today that i will need to replace the heater matrix pretty soon, just after i have just replaced the radiator and fitted the mocal oil cooler, just one thing after another!!!!

 

Anyway this is what i have done since last update.

Fitted some 288mm brakes to replace the shocking standard ones. What a difference they make, lots better!

Also i have been having a few problems with the engine running hot, So i decided to fit a 13 row mocal. I got the thermostatic plate and kept the original cooler. A small problem was i found a pinhole leak in the radiator when i was inspecting it as id been getting steam now and again from the rad. Turns out it was not a genuine radiator anyway. So fitted a new denso marston radiator along with the mocal. Hoping this would bring my temps down. It has slightly but not what i was expecting.

 

Today i been out for a run, and when i got back i was just in the garage and noticed all the windscreen had steamed up. got inside and yeah condensation on the windscreen and also condensation/slight dampness down the drivers footwell! I take it this is a warning shot from the matrix???? Just after i replaced that rad and filled with new coolant!! what a pisser!! not looking forward to changing it at all!!

Could this be due to the new radiator holding the correct temperature/being more efficient and giving the matrix too much to handle??

 

 

 

FEW PICS OF PROGRESS:

[dukest 0]

Could this be due to the new radiator holding the correct temperature/being more efficient and giving the matrix too much to handle??

exactly that I'm afraid. you've basically increased the pressure in the system now and the matrix is the weakest point and failing. its worth doing though, with everything you've done so far it will be really satisfying to have a car that never uses water. also, you wont lose your coolant doing the matrix as the pipes through the dash are so high up, you'll just need a little top up afterwards if you're careful. its a long job but not "that" difficult that anyone should worry about taking it on. :salute:

[iceviolet 0]

Well i know what im doing this weekend then!!!! Bite the bullet!! Can it be done without removing the entire dash??? And anyone have a rough price for a genuine VW item?? Any other bits id be best replacing while im in there??

[dukest 0]

people say you can do it without the dash but i wouldnt bother - its fiddly enough already without trying that, especially if you havent done it before. i think they're about £80-100 from VW but cant remember exactly. if your heater controls are dodgy then its a good time to replace cables etc but i guess that depends if you can get parts in time.

 

or, as its summer, you could just bypass your matrix for a while if you're not up for a big job right now! just dont forget before it gets too cold :)

[Philmo 0]

Like the idea of inverted oil cooler - to promote proper draining on oil change.

But is there risk of long term air trapping in the cooler, or does the oil drive it all out? :scratch:

[iceviolet 0]

Like the idea of inverted oil cooler - to promote proper draining on oil change.

But is there risk of long term air trapping in the cooler, or does the oil drive it all out? :scratch:

 

I didnt know it was inverted??lol, thought that was the correct way? I was under the impression that the oil is forced through the cooler so it wouldnt really matter which way you have it?

It seems to be working, before i was getting 114-120 on motorway at 70ish, and now it sits at 98-102.

[pete_griff 0]

chase those water leaks baby!

 

what a pisser - truely typical corrado behaviour!

 

it's definitely possible to do the matrix without removing the dash (i know as i've done it), but tbh, it's not really that much more work to remove the whole dash and that way you can tidy up any loose crap behind the dash and help get rid of some rattles by tightening everything back down nicely and adding some foam etc in places where it's needed.

 

set at least a day aside to do the matrix and take your time and be patient! there are lots of little fiddly screws etc which are a royal PITA, so make sure you take breaks and get some tea on standby in the background!

i say this as i'm not a patient person at all and am now consequently very good at plastic welding!

 

chin up - you'll be happy once it's all done and rewarding you as it should once more.

 

 

also - i gave a fair bit of thought as to which way the oil cooler should be mounted when i did mine; i came to the conclusion that it would be better the other way up (i.e. not inverted) - on the downside it would retain oil when doing a change, but on the upside there would defo be no airlocks...

i would imagine you get a fair bit of air to push round the oil system after doing a change now don't you?...

when doing your next oil change, it's possibly worth disconnecting the crank sensor (to stop all fuelling and ignition) and winding it over on the starter for a bit to get the oil pressure back up before you start it proper - that wqy you'll help avoid any damage

 

nice update btw :)

[Jon_vr6 1]

I like the colour of the 288mm's did bigred do them ??

[iceviolet 0]

Pete Griff, thanks for the advice on trying to push the air out when doing an oil change. I didnt really think about which way it had to be mounted like i said, i had seen a pic on here of someones like that and just thought it was the norm. If i can get a matrix for the weekend i might tackle it. see how i feel!

 

Jon Vr6, i bought the soft spares kit from bigg red, and i refurbished them myself. Shotblasted them, cleaned, new seals and rubbers and then painted them. The paint colour is called copper green, its just a metal paint that i can get from work. A bit like hammerite, spray directly onto bare metal. Ill have a look tomorrow see what its actually called. I just fill a jar and bring it home.

 

There is one problem, i hope its a little one, that is starting to bug me. When i come to start the car for the first time, there is a knocking noise for just the second or two the car starts up, then dissapears immediately. If turned off and started again it doesnt do it. only when the car has been left. It sounds like its from the top end.i hope its from the top end!! Am i right in thinking this could just be a hydraulic lifter thats draining and losing it oil when left and its just taking a second or two to get its oil???? This problem has nothing to do with the mocal as it did it before i fitted it. The car drives ok and no noises when driving, just that initial start up. Slightly worrying!

[Jon_vr6 1]

Pete Griff, thanks for the advice on trying to push the air out when doing an oil change. I didnt really think about which way it had to be mounted like i said, i had seen a pic on here of someones like that and just thought it was the norm. If i can get a matrix for the weekend i might tackle it. see how i feel!

 

Jon Vr6, i bought the soft spares kit from bigg red, and i refurbished them myself. Shotblasted them, cleaned, new seals and rubbers and then painted them. The paint colour is called copper green, its just a metal paint that i can get from work. A bit like hammerite, spray directly onto bare metal. Ill have a look tomorrow see what its actually called. I just fill a jar and bring it home.

 

There is one problem, i hope its a little one, that is starting to bug me. When i come to start the car for the first time, there is a knocking noise for just the second or two the car starts up, then dissapears immediately. If turned off and started again it doesnt do it. only when the car has been left. It sounds like its from the top end.i hope its from the top end!! Am i right in thinking this could just be a hydraulic lifter thats draining and losing it oil when left and its just taking a second or two to get its oil???? This problem has nothing to do with the mocal as it did it before i fitted it. The car drives ok and no noises when driving, just that initial start up. Slightly worrying!

 

Good work mate, sounds like tappets as you said if it was knocking all the time then i would be very worried but since it disappears after a second or two doesnt sound like anything major

[iceviolet 0]

Well it was confirmed that my matrix had gone, damp carpets and steam. Decided to waste no time and just sort it straight away. Picking up a new VAG matrix tomorrow lunchtime then going to fit it same day if possible, maybe sunday?

I thought id get a head start and strip out the old one this evening, under 3 hours and i had it out, i suppose thats the easy bit though!lol! Hopefully it will go together ok again.

 

Few pics of the matrix, as you can see,leaking and date stamp is 1993 so its lasted 17 years! ill be happy if the new one lasts that long!

[dukest 0]

out in 3 hours is not bad imo, as long as you dont forget too many bits and have to go a few steps back to put them in then you should be good in no more than that time putting it back together. :salute:

[wy906 0]

Awesome thread, just read it from start to finish.

 

Good work! Oh, nice colour too! :lol:

[iceviolet 0]

Well after fitting the new radiator last week and then blowing the matrix i decided noy to dwell on it and just get on with it and fit a new matrix. I had dreaded doing this job, but actually it wasnt too bad at all! I stripped the old one out on friday, then planned to fit the new one,tidy up the plastics etc on saturday!

Best laid plans an all that came true to form!!! Got back from VW saturday lunchtime with my new matrix,raring to go! No electricity, and i have an electric garage door without the manual key! cannot get in, rings up electric board, "its ok it will be back on for 1pm". No worries, power came on at 5pm :censored: ! I was expecting to be finished by this time as Leeds were on the tv. So saturday was a right off!

 

Sunday, started about 11ish, finished about 6, lots of breaks,dinner and cleaning up everything as it went back. Steady away and it was quite rewarding tightening up all the bits that have been wobbling and creaking and putting everything back all nice and clean!

The dash hardly makes a sound now when driving!! :D :D

 

Anyhow, a few pics of the progress! I have got some pics of the matrix itself which will be posted up when vr6joni gets a gsf matrix, so we can compare and see what constitutes £100 price difference!

[iceviolet 0]

Got some proper oil/volt gauges delivered today!! :D :D :D :D

Wanted some ever since i bought the corrado. £100 for them and the sender from surfer.vr6 on here :salute: Bargain id say.

I got a wiring connector for them today from the scrappie, same connector as mk3 golf interior light. Going to install them tomorrow hopefully.

 

I mentioned a rough tappet noise i get on start up for approximately 1 second which i reckon is tappets draining or difficulty of oil getting to the head is still there. I am convinced it is head related so i am going to change the entire head as it is the easiest option for me as i jhave a head that was rebuilt a thousand or so miles ago sat in my garage. Bought some HD springs, already have some SP263's just need to buy new tappets for it and i reckon it should cure it!

what is the manufacture of oem tappets? is it INA or febi bilstein??

[iceviolet 0]

Just a few pics of the oil/volt gauges. Was quite a simple install, crimped,soldered and heat shrinked all connections to make it a neat and safe install.

My pressure on start up is around 6 Bar initally then drops to about 2 Bar on idle.

Does anyone know if these are the correct pressures??

Also my o2 sensor is giving readings of 0.969 to 1.031?? Anyone no if they are ok? its just that it seems to be idling a little rough.

[bruny 0]

Gauges look brill, I'd love a set, and top work on the heater matrix, horrible job I thought, bitched about it for a long time, more scuffed knuckles and cursing :mad2: good work:clap: :clap:

[pete_griff 0]

gauges looks great - i had a set in my car, but mine were the early jobbies. those ones are perfect, much better use of the cubby hole as you say.

that oil pressure is good, nothing to worry about. is that 2 bar on idle when warm or cold as 2 bar sounds a bit high if that's when the car is warm, what grade oil are you using?

 

as for the lambda... i'm no expert (hopefully an electrical geek will be along shortly to tell you for certain!), but afaik the readings are supposed to vary (in range) much more than that.

when a lambda is giving readings that are barely fluctuating it means the lambda is buggered.

[iceviolet 0]

gauges looks great - i had a set in my car, but mine were the early jobbies. those ones are perfect, much better use of the cubby hole as you say.

that oil pressure is good, nothing to worry about. is that 2 bar on idle when warm or cold as 2 bar sounds a bit high if that's when the car is warm, what grade oil are you using?

 

as for the lambda... i'm no expert (hopefully an electrical geek will be along shortly to tell you for certain!), but afaik the readings are supposed to vary (in range) much more than that.

when a lambda is giving readings that are barely fluctuating it means the lambda is buggered.

 

The needle lies the thickness of the needle under the 2 Bar inrement on the gauge, so just under 2 Bar. And thats when warm, the oil temps dont go over 104 c now thanks to the cooler unless thrashing it.Im using the silkolene 10w -50 stuff so i know it should be a little thicker when hot.

As for the lambda i have found some info on Autodata which states its range is 0.970 TO 1.030.

i dont think the occasional 0.001 will make too much difference will it? and is only occasional, i know as i did a logh on vag-com.

 

Anyway thanks for the comments guys, very helpful!

[pete_griff 0]

happy days with the lambda, that's always good news :)

 

as for the oil that sounds right too

 

if it was me though, as you're running a naturally aspirated 12v (and also for a NA 24v), i would be running a high quality synthetic 5/40 e.g. silkolene pro s.

if you drive very hard for long periods with only the standard oil cooler then you might see temps creep up over the 120 degrees mark which is bad news for 5/40. that said though, if you're driving like that then you should have an aftermarket oil cooler which will keep temps down below 120 anyway.

 

IMO, you only need the likes of 10/50 in a VR6 engine when running forced induction and having hot turbos etc to cope with...

[iceviolet 0]

Tax has expired today so i have decided to SORN the corrado for the winter! I have hardly used it this year at all, Kind of losing the love for it to be honest. So thought it be best to save a few quid.

Been thinking hard on what to do with it over the past month or so. I had big ideas for it but I have decided i am going to try keep it as standard as i can with just the few subtle mods. Then decide whether to sell it or not at a later date. I am going back to OEM exhaust manifold,Inlet manifold,HT Leads and refurb the speedlines and put them back on. The coilovers will stay for now as the OEM ride height is too high for my liking.

 

So there will be a few parts in the for sale section soon, including a Wavetarc diff and fitting kit, and some brand new SP 263's.

[OllieVR6 0]

Don't do it. Put it in the garage for a few months and not spend money on it. Then do a search for "VR6" on you tube and be reminded how awesome these engines are and what you could do with it!! ;)