VR6 Handling - still doesn't feel right !

[monVR6 0]

OK - after recent posts regarding my VR6 suspension problems, I have carried out the following : - had new dampers with top mounts fitted all round. Rear axle and front wishbone bushes have been replaced and the geometry has been set. The car has done 73K on a 95M.

 

I am still getting some jiggly vibration through the chassis - the best way to describe it is that it feels like vibration in the drivetrain - or like going over a cattle grid - (but on a much smaller scale). If I coast along with the clutch dipped, it still does this - I presume this means it is not engine-mount or clutch related ?? The overall effect is that each imperfection can be felt through the seat and seems to steer the car more and more left if not corrected. Other VR6s I've driven did not do this and felt much more controlled.

 

Under hard acceleration, I'm getting a lot of torque-steer (which I would expect to a certain extent) but the car also feels unsettled when the power is cut during gearchanges.

Finally, the steering feels heavy off centre and I think feels stiffer to the right lock.

 

My thoughts now are to ask that the dampers be replaced again and matched to new springs at the same time. I will probably go to GSF for Boge gas shocks and matched springs as I am restricted budget-wise - I have heard this is a good approach if I don't want to go to huge expense and want to retain a (sort of) standard set up. I've also heard that original springs are vary-rated - should I be wary of replacing these with GSF items ?

 

Sorry - a lot of questions here - anyone got any ideas as to where these problems stem from and whether the new springs/dampers will solve things ? Any other thoughts on what's going wrong ?

 

PS - just seen posts about tracking and ball-joints - so will try this - any other thoughts ??

 

Thanks all

[Henny 0]

Sounds to me like a buckled wheel... Go to a good local tyre place and get them to balance all 4 wheels... tell them you suspect you may have a buckled rim and ask them too look out for it while they're balancing them...

 

One of my Borbets was buckled when I bought the car and it made the whole car horrible to drive... vibration, nasty feeling in the steering, the works... Put a new wheel on and - Voila! - cured! 8)

 

Good luck!

[dr_mat 0]

I think it's the time of year. VR6s seem to handle badly in the winter, just ask everyone else who has one... It's been ridiculous recently..

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Where did you have the work done?

 

Some workshops don't have dead flat floors, so makes camber adjustment a bit hit-and-miss. Sounds like tracking to me. It's amazing the effect it has, even if slightly off. Basically means the front wheels are fighting against eachother and this can have a very detrimental affect on handling.

 

K

[monVR6 0]

I will check for tracking and buckled wheels - is it still worthwhile changing the dampers and springs ? The garage that did the work are happy to do this as I am not fully satisified - so it would seem to make sense !?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I will check for tracking and buckled wheels - is it still worthwhile changing the dampers and springs ? The garage that did the work are happy to do this as I am not fully satisified - so it would seem to make sense !?

 

If you're as fussy with suspension as I am, then you'll be steering clear of Boge turbo gas shocks. They feel uprated and firm over bumps and during sedate driving but get them on the open road and they feel sh1te.

 

OE Sachs dampers and springs are way better than bodge stuff.

 

Koni or Bilstein dampers are the ultimate, but they're not cheap.

 

K

[DEL VR6 0]

I think it's the time of year. VR6s seem to handle badly in the winter, just ask everyone else who has one... It's been ridiculous recently..

 

I start work early, and finish late. So both times i get in the car, its freezing.

 

And it drives horrible when its cold. (I wait for the engine to get warm before going anywhere near 2'500 revs) but even still, its not been fun to drive at all just lately with all this cold weather.

 

PS, a tip i discovered on my last C... Avoid tilting sunroof when its icy on top of the car as the black felt strip will be stuck to the bodywork of the car, and it will stay behind while the metal roof inside it tilts upwards. And they dont stick back too well.

[PhatVR6 0]

It sounds like a bent driveshaft to me.

[VRev6 0]

And it drives horrible when its cold. (I wait for the engine to get warm before going anywhere near 2'500 revs) but even still, its not been fun to drive at all just lately with all this cold weather.

 

My engine doesnt have time to get warm in a morning i only live 3 miles away from work!! :( I hate British winters its cold and grim :(

[des 0]

:lol:replace both drive shafts complete with inner and outer cv joints. if the vibs are at 70 to 80mph.

[Ice White Socks 0]

Hi,

 

I have had handling probs ever since I bought my VR- A kind of light side to side jiggling not only in the steering wheel but which affecting the whole car. Got the alloy wheels refurbed and a new set of proxes on and I can't describe just how much better it felt- it was simply like a different car- I had a smile a mile wide when I was testing it out after fitting the wheels :D . It goes to show that there must have been some wheel balance/ tyre fault that was causing all the problems. May be a problem on yours :?:

 

Mike

[Riki 0]

make sure that the suspension you have on the car is speced for a VR6. They are pretty nose heavy cars and if you get a budget set up fitted they really dont like it. Try and spend the money on good quality springs and dampers. It is worth it in the long run.

 

Were the dampers replaced after the front toe was set? If this was the case it will be buggered up if they disconnected it from the hub. You will need to get the front camber set up along with the front toe. Toe should only be adjusted from the offside track rod as the nearside is a preset length.

 

It might be worthwhile getting the front wheels balanced just to finish it off.

 

I hope this helps a bit. :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Toe should only be adjusted from the offside track rod as the nearside is a preset length.

 

Unless it has been replaced in which case it'll be an adjustable one.

 

K

[Riki 0]

It will still have a threaded track rod and end on the nearside but it should only be adjusted with the offside track rod. When you replace the n/s track rod there is a spec in the work instructions which you set it to. It is measured from the centre of the track rod end to the flat that buts against the rack. The same applies to all vws with struts and power steering although the spec of the track rod length differs from model to model.

 

If it is adjusted on the n/s or both it will bugger up the centring of the rack , collum and steering wheel.