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20vturbo

corrado 20v turbo, finally finished

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Once again I can't praise you enough for your time and attention to detail. This is my favourite build thread and I hope you get as much pleasure driving this Corrado as I do reading your thread.

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i remade the brake pipe that goes under the car

 

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started washing some of the interior

 

 

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carpet fitted

 

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boot carpet and weichers strut brace

 

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some of the trim in

 

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then i had to change the clutch master cylinder

 

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the old master cylinder

 

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the new one

 

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the end taken off the original

 

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the new master cylinder ready for the new end

 

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the end slid onto the shaft and secured with epoxy

 

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a quick lick of paint and fitted to the car

 

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and then back in with the intake pipe

 

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i went for the different style master cylinder because it gives me a much lighter clutch peddle. the light peddle makes the 4 puck clutch and solid flywheel alot easier to use and much smoother.

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suprised you expoxy'd the old fitting...

 

FYI, you can get a brand new mastercylinder from the stealers for about £80-100. they look similar to the one you've picked up, but the fitting for the solid line are in a different place to the OEM item (seen you've got around this by re-bending the existing solid line). you can also get round this by just running a braided line straight from the master to the slave and do away with the crap factory flexi.

also, you have to change the pedal as it's a different fitment, but the pedal is only about £30 from the stealers.

 

if you find the epoxy doesn't hold then look into doing that.

also you can pick up pedals out out the earlier passats (around '95) - i did this and paid £5 for it from a breakers.

changing the pedal is an easy job, just a little fiddly when re-fitting the return spring

 

 

so how long before it's on the road now then?

:D

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the epoxy is a super strenght epoxy made just for bonding metals and plastics and also the rod comes through the fitting and into the hole so the peddle pushes on the rod and not the plastic.

 

i cant run braid down to the slave cylinder because i am using a mk4 gearbox which has a push in fitting on the slave cylinder. i couldnt find anywhere that sells them so i got a hose company to make me a new one out of new hose and put the corrado end on one side and the mk4 end on the other.

 

the difference that master cylinder made to the peddle is huge, the 4 puck clutch is a pleasure to use now :D

 

it will be on the road next summer, the whole interior is getting retrimed over the winter and then mapping in the spring

 

changing the pedal is an easy job, just a little fiddly when re-fitting the return spring

 

tell me about it, many a battle ive had with those stupid springs :lol:

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I think I would be inclined to drill a wee hole through the plastic and the rod, then put a pin/rivet through it. For peace of mind if nothing else.

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Forgive me as ive read your thread ages ago but cant remember all the details. Im i right in thinking your gonna be running a gt28rs of some description? and are also using qpeng management? What are you doing for the mapping of this? Just wondered as i would hopefully like a bigger turbo at some point in the future and was thinking of a gt28rs. Lovely car by the way!

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yes

i have a garrett gt28 and its running qpeng

i bought the can interface box and im bringing it to a friend of mine who builds and maps race engines to get all the mapping done.

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just read through the whole thread... :notworthy: am planning on doing something similar in the near future. Any chance you still have the rotisserie dimensions etc?

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just read through the whole thread... :notworthy: am planning on doing something similar in the near future. Any chance you still have the rotisserie dimensions etc?

 

i should have them somewhere, ill see if i can find them for you.

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yes

i have a garrett gt28 and its running qpeng

i bought the can interface box and im bringing it to a friend of mine who builds and maps race engines to get all the mapping done.

 

Thanks mate looks like Il be changing my engine management.

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payed a visit to the interior man toady to pick a leather color for the corrado

 

its definitely not boring and you wont see the same in another corrado, i love it :grin:

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i needed to make at heat shield to cover my coil packs and the n75 so they dont get fried by the big turbo.

 

flat sheet of stainless

 

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i bent and cut it by hand and finished it off with some rubber trim

 

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fitted to the engine

 

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i got both rear caliper brackets finished

 

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then i decided to helicoil the threads for the rear 4 pot calipers

 

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drill and tap out the holes to m14

 

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thread in the helicoil

 

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then trim off the end

 

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cleaned and painted the stub axle, hub and handbrake caliper bracket

 

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skimmed the rear discs down to 21.5mm and threw a bit of silver on the middle to stop them rusting

 

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ill be wire locking alot of the bolts in the car

drill a hole in the bolt head

 

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thread the stainless lock wire through the bolts and use the special pliers to twist the wire

 

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also lock wired the rear calipers

 

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the rear brakes done, just need to make handbrake cables and fit the handbrake calipers

 

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Great job but is the wire locking really necessary ?? I know what is it for but even company's making lamborhini or ferrari leave their bolts just tighten up and it newer failed down, I think so.

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It probably would be fine without wirelocking but I like to be 100% sure nothing is ever going to come lose, esspecialy when I'm going to be driving this car to the nurburgring and doing a few laps of it. Better safe than sorry, I feel you can never be over safe when it comes to brakes and suspension.

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Been a massive fan of this project but I think that the wire locking is a little ott.

Provided that everything it torqued up correctly, then it should be fine, even a little loctite. Your grade or wire looks too thin for a decent lock wire. It's almost a cosmetic mod.

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The lock wire isn't cosmetic, it's 302 stainless steel goodridge lock wire. Some might think it's over kill but I don't. I've seen bolts that were tourqed and locktighted start to back out. I'm trying to build a car that's 100% safe and reliable and more importantly a car that I have confidence in. The lock wire is there to serve a purpose and dosent effect the car in any way so why not put it on, if it makes it safer it's never a bad thing.

 

Also I'm tourqe sealing all the important bolts. It's an orange paint that you put on bolt heads so you will know if they are starting to come lose, ott? I don't think so

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Its not doing any harm, gives extra peace of mind and a motorsport look ! Great Idea! Project is looking awesome! :salute:

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I can see the point in the wire locking but it isn't at all required if torqued correctly and thread locked if required. Not without wanting to rain on your parade, the wire-locking for the stub axle is of such a low quality of job that it isn't really doing anything constructive. I'm an engineer on Military Helicopters and have done my fair share of wire locking to know what I am on about......

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that was the first thing on the car i lock wired, ive redone it since the pic was taken, im using it to give myself some piece of mind when im lapping the nurburgring and hammering along the autobahn. you can never be too safe when it comes to brakes and suspension.

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havent updated this in a while, im in america at the moment so dont have any pics to put up.

i had a few issues with the engine just before i left for america, ill go into more detail about that when i get home at the end of the month. the car has moved along quite a bit since the last update so i will update the thread when i get home and hopefully i will get somewhere close to being finished by next summer.

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at the start of last year i decided to get one of these so the corrado took a back seat while i did a few bits to the gti

 

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then after the woodruff key in the crank pully of the corrado broke this happened to all 8 of the exhaust valves

 

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new valves freshly lapped in

 

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head off the engine all cleaned and ready for the new valves

 

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valves in the head

 

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small bit of grease on the collets to hold them in while i take off the valve spring compressor

 

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modified valve spring compressor to reach down into the head

 

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all the valves back in

 

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engine preped and new headgasket on

 

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cams back in and all timed up

 

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head back on and tourqed down

 

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pretty much all back together

 

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