Aqua blue pearl VR - p.34 bonnet cable repair

[GrahamU 5]

 

 

I understand with why this would be done in high temp areas. Especially with solder mixes nowadays and joins being nowhere near as strong with no lead content. I have access to 60:40 tin/lead solder luckily which is still used in aeronautical and military manufacturing only. A correctly crimped connection using a high quality crimp tool with the correct AWG setting for the wire is the way to go though. :thumbleft:

 

 

:) :)

 

Unleaded solder isnt good at all, although it can take higher temperatures it's more brittle than leaded, but its not the type of solder thats the problem, its because when you solder a multicore cable you are changing it to a single core, then at the point where the solder stopped flowing up the the strands, the cable becomes weak and if flexed or vibrated can fracture, that doesnt happen when it is crimped, but like you say, you do need to make sure you are crimping on the correct setting otherwise that to will cause damage to the strands

 

Surprisingly, leaded solder is still allowed motorsport and in certain applications in automotive as long as its used on a safety critical device, its just easier for the OEMs to use unleaded for environment/recycling paperwork reasons.

[seanl82 23]

Yeah your right there Graham. When we have to make repairs in situ, we use strongbacks to ensure they don't flex on these weak points. I was a bit quick to reply last time and as per PMs, my apologies. Both methods have their applications though. :thumbleft:

[GrahamU 5]

We did this at work a couple of years back

 

http://www.netcomposites.com/news/jaguar-c-xf-first-vehicle-to-use-wire-in-composite/4148

 

I'd love to try it on mine but the cost is huge :) its coming to you aeromotive guys though ;) check out wire in composites from bf1systems http://www.bf1systems.com

[fla 9]

Have you fitted a couple of HT leads on the wrong cylinders or something? Engine shaking is a bad misfire. A tooth out on the timing doesn't do that.

 

 

I'll recheck - maybe a schoolboy error. Otherwise it does sound very tappety, but once i've given it a going over i'll see how things look.

[fla 9]

http://s961.photobucket.com/user/violator001/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

hope the link to photobucket works. I'm guessing (hoping!) this may be stuck tappets, but i think i'll remove the rocker cover and see that oil is circulating there. Before that though is there anything else worth checking?

 

Leads are on correctly Kev, plugs are a bit manky so really need to change those, i guess that would also contribute to a lumpy idle. I'll give them a clean with a wire brush first and see if things improve at all.

 

Also, the MAF is not connected as i've just oiled the BMC so want to remove any excess oil rather than gumming up the MAF. Also no lambda sensor connected yet.

Edited November 1, 2014 by fla

[science 0]

Did you change the tappets with the cams?

Have you had the tensioner bolt out?

If so did you fill them with oil first?

You should bleed and pre-fill the bolt to the correct level before installing. If there is air in the bolt, the chains will be too loose causing them to slap around. If the bolt is too full there will be too much tension on the chains, which makes the engine difficult to turn and also sounds awful.

 

Maybe try running with the MAF but without the BMC. I know it may be possible to run the engine without the MAF but not until the ECU has learnt it's adaptations.

[fla 9]

Good point regarding the tensioner bolt. Do you know how far out it should be? To bleed and re - pressure do I need to remove the plugs and just crank the engine over? Like you say I think the plunger is pulled out too far so perhaps too much tension on the chains. Before closing everything up I did turn it over and there was oil in the head although it looks a bit dry now.

[science 0]

If you can turn it over by hand it's unlikely to be over tensioned especially as you haven't bleed the bolt.

Read this;

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=3520

Post 11 is how to bleed the bolt.

When I did mine the seal inside the bolt had a nick in it, requiring a new bolt.

[fla 9]

decided to ultrasonically clean the original injectors and give them a quick spray with hammerite. Each was in the bath for 3 cycles of 480 seconds, with two per batch. Once pic with masking tape still on the other, removed.

Hopefully find the time to fit these in the next days as I know they work! The ones fitted have also been cleaned painted and have new seals, but i bought them used and didnt test them for correct operation.

[Philuk 0]

how much did the ultra sonic cleaning cost if you dont mind me asking, im debating what to do with mine while they are out.

[fla 9]

i did them at home - got a machine from Amazon, around £30

[Philuk 0]

What solution did you use in it, thinking it might be handy to have one of these at home

[fla 9]

I used the suggested one - can't remember the name but its quite concentrated. About £7 on top. But a word of warning (!) you'll soon be looking to clean anything and everything that will fit in the basket!

I'm looking to make up a jig to pulse operate the injectors during cleaning and then to pass fluid through to check the spray pattern approximately.

[Philuk 0]

Are they all the same? I've been looking and there is quite a few for around the £30 mark, is it similar to one that is listed as doing jewellery etc? And is the solution just the basic one that's listed or did you use some specific stuff for injectors?

[Jim Bowen 1]

I have a James Products ultrasonic cleaner

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/JPL-8050-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B000YCGWKQ (was a bit cheaper when i bought it)

 

You can use it with just plain water or a few drops of washing up liquid. I do have the proper cleaning liquid, but machine seems to do well without it.

[fla 9]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/JPL-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Digital-Timer-Black-Silver/dp/B00112B0U0/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1417444553&sr=1-2

 

This is the one i've got and use it with the Sea Clean fluid

[fla 9]

finally removed the OBD1 lambda (for ref this is LM 18, 021 906 265A, 0 258 003 257/258) and replaced it with the OBD2 one (LP 18, 021 906 265 T, 0 258 003 694/695). I used the shallow extraction socket as there was hardly any space above the lambda to get the socket on! A few squirts fo releasing oil, a leverage bar on the Halfords ratchet and it was off. The smaller socket uses a 3/8" driver and my adapter for 1/2" to 3/8" was a crap one.

Removed the pins from the connector and swopped the metal corrugation over to the new sensor. Refitted and connected it up and promptly ran out of fuel. Anyway, it will be on the ramps again to drain the oil again and change the filter and then its just refitting the dash bits, various leds and some more derattling and we should be good to go... no pics unfortunately as my phone is up the spout.

[fla 9]

Just drove it up the road. What a difference from obd1 and the cams certainly make it come alive low down. Need to refit the dash centre console and bleed tje brakes. Then give it a good thrashing to clear out one years crud in the system.

[Pat. 10]

OI, picture updates are required good sir!

[Philuk 0]

When you refitted the injectors did you have to get them fitted properly or just use the bolts from the rail to press and hold them in?

[fla 9]

Phil - I pressed them into the fuel rail and then fed them into the block. When i tightened the rail down, i rejigged the injectors to be in the middle.

 

Pat - will do. No major developments unfortunately, your thread is a far more intersting read

[Philuk 0]

Cool thanks I didn't want to knack em lol

[Pat. 10]

Nonsense! I don't suppose you got a before & after vid of the cams performance increase? Quite interested to see as they've always been something I wanted to do! Btw how does it drive on the fat fives? People keep saying they tramline alot on 17's so that's the only thing playing on my mind?

[sexybourbon 0]

I wouldnt worry about tramlining on fat fives when your running those brocks haha

[fla 9]

got a few clear hours on the car today so changed the rear brake pads (Brembo) and greased up everything! Sliding pins were fine, but cleaned them and put some fresh grease in there. Removed the muck from the pad sliding area (old pads had stuck there), greased the caliper pivot point between that and the carrier and the pad springs that press against the caliper body. Should really have swopped over to the Mk4s but i hadn't got round to stripping and painting those. Might be a project for later in the year.

Car is still on stands so i'll be bleeding the rears hopefully tomorrow then to do the fronts.