fla 9 Posted August 18, 2014 Just a few more small updates - i'm struggling with a 'clamping' solution for the round loom connector, pics below. I was thinking of drilling a small hole perpendicular to the axis to hold it in place but really this would need to be on both sides. Would welcome suggestions... I'm also installing the crossovers and trying to tidy up the absolute mess of the wiring behind the dash - spent a few hours but didnt really manage to get too far. I've replaced the wiring to the speakers and removed the connector that goes first to the dash tweeter to run this to the crossover. Also putting some more felt pads around the dash and looking for a place to fit the OBD2 immobiliser box - there aren't that many! Then i need to route the wiring sensibly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted August 18, 2014 Fair play to you Hasan for taking this on , that wiring makes my head spin , just looking at it ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 30, 2014 All connected up today, turned the key an kept trying to fire up but was 'just' missing which I guess is the obd2 immobiliser. I think this needs to be set up via vagcom. The broken main round connector is also an issue so when I get this it will hopefully solve that problem. Felt sheets now being put inside the dash and the various looms are being tidied up. Hoping to have the carpet fitted back in the next day or so. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted September 22, 2014 (edited) Firstly, big thanks are due to Swiftkid for the main round connector for the loom. Trouble is the small pins are impossible to remove, even with the special tool he kindly sent me. So it looks like i will have to cut and solder all the thin wires. Wont be fun - there are around 25 or so there, but at least i'll get the car running. The main power pins have come out easily so these will be swopped over directly. Edited September 22, 2014 by fla Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted September 22, 2014 So, have you removed the 3 large pins with the tool? It's a different tool for the small pins you know? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted September 23, 2014 yes the large pins are no problem but i just cant find the right tool for the small pins. Swiftkid had made up something which he also kindly sent but i'm still struggling with removing them. Anything you could advise on? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted September 23, 2014 It might be worth buying the tools have a look here; http://www.northwalestools.co.uk/laser-4328---terminal-tool-set-for-renault-citron--97174-p.asp I would lend you my set but I'm still busy using them and I won't be down you way till November. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted September 25, 2014 That's very kind of you. To get it running I'll solder the wires now but in the next 'tidying' project I'll probably cut them off again and fit new pins. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 25, 2014 Yep that is the pin extractor set I use as well. Solder shouldn't be used on engine looms really. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted September 25, 2014 Kev-any particular reason they shouldn't be soldered? The main power leads will be refitted but the thinner ones are the ones I was going to solder... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted September 25, 2014 Not to disrespect your soldering skills but I think you may end up chasing electrical gremlins if you cut and solder the loom. Also, I don't think there is much slack at that part of the loom if you intend to re-terminate? Depends on your loom. I can send you the tool in the post, but I'm using it on a current project until 7th October. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 26, 2014 Kev-any particular reason they shouldn't be soldered? The main power leads will be refitted but the thinner ones are the ones I was going to solder... Because of the constant heat cycling and movement, Hasan. VAG never use solder on engine harnesses, only sealed crimps for their superior mechanical strength and low resistance. If I have to join wires together because there is no other way round the problem, I use these - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/7820753/ They are brilliant. Crimp the wires together, then heat with a heat gun until glue oozes out of both ends to seal the connection. It's exactly what VAG use :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 26, 2014 I have some solder to cut off in that case :lol: Will be ordering some of those, think its only the wires to the senders on oil filter housing i've had to repair. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted October 23, 2014 well after a few nights of wire tinkering i have managed to remove all of them from the spare connector (many thanks to Swiftkid!) Next step is to clean it up and then remove all the wires from the loom in the car - not looking forward to that... Just some boring pics of the bare connector, the removed wires all labelled up with their positions just in case i make an error with the fitting of the ones on the car, the pin removal tools (one agin from Swiftkid) and the pin number photo courtesy of Science. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
science 0 Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) Glad it's coming on well and the the terminal numbers are useful. I didn't get around to annotating the photo for OBD2 but there are fewer wires to deal with. Did you ever find a list of terminals or wiring diagram for the engine connector? Edited October 23, 2014 by science Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted October 23, 2014 Lol, was my makeshift tool actually of any use? Yours looks a lot more professional haha. Some good effort going into this! Fingers crossed it will all go smoothly for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted October 23, 2014 yes yours was brilliant! Mine may look better but its actually a bit harder to use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted October 30, 2014 well i made another pin removal tool on the grinder after struggling to progress properly. Took several attempts to get it right but saved a lot of hassle. Depinned the old and repinned the new connector and fired it up. Started first time but sounds like a bag of spanners and there is a fair amount of engine shake - i'll be checking the sparks for ignition, leads are new so should be ok. I've got a video of the engine and would welcome comments - in fact if anyone advise how to post it up that would be great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrahamU 5 Posted October 30, 2014 Because of the constant heat cycling and movement, Hasan. VAG never use solder on engine harnesses, only sealed crimps for their superior mechanical strength and low resistance. If I have to join wires together because there is no other way round the problem, I use these - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/7820753/ They are brilliant. Crimp the wires together, then heat with a heat gun until glue oozes out of both ends to seal the connection. It's exactly what VAG use :D Totally agree with this, I work for a company that make harnesses for motorsports and we always crimp the wires (similar to those that Kev has linked to) Glad you put this Kev, as last time I said that I got shouted down :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted October 30, 2014 Think I used photo bucket to post my video but still have got the hang of embedding videos. Glad it's fired up OK! Gutted it's not perfect but you'll get there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted October 30, 2014 thanks Swift. Your help was invaluable along the way. I was surprised when it fired, took a few seconds before the fuel pressure built up but then when it turned over i was really chuffed. Sounds like its firing on 4 cylinders plus the shake from the block also suggests something is not right, i'm hoping the cams aren't out by a sprocket (or more!), although i did check them about 5 times before closing everything up. i also primed the tensioner bolt by turning the car over without sparks and fuel. I'll check tomorrow and see what I find. I didn't change the plugs just gave them a bit of a clean, not that they were in bad shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 31, 2014 Have you fitted a couple of HT leads on the wrong cylinders or something? Engine shaking is a bad misfire. A tooth out on the timing doesn't do that. Totally agree with this, I work for a company that make harnesses for motorsports and we always crimp the wires (similar to those that Kev has linked to) Glad you put this Kev, as last time I said that I got shouted down :( I don't think I noticed that, otherwise you would have go my support! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted October 31, 2014 Totally agree with this, I work for a company that make harnesses for motorsports and we always crimp the wires (similar to those that Kev has linked to) Glad you put this Kev, as last time I said that I got shouted down :( I understand with why this would be done in high temp areas. Especially with solder mixes nowadays and joins being nowhere near as strong with no lead content. I have access to 60:40 tin/lead solder luckily which is still used in aeronautical and military manufacturing only. A correctly crimped connection using a high quality crimp tool with the correct AWG setting for the wire is the way to go though. :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 31, 2014 I was going to say the solder quality isn't as good as it used to be. I've heard PCB and / or silver solder is supposed to be good? I'd probably go with that in interior wiring, but not a harsh environment like an engine bay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted October 31, 2014 Like kev says, if it's out by a tooth it wouldn't shake that badly. Have you stuck it on vag com? Double checked all earth's? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
