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Clutch biting point low, is there adjustment?

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The clutch biting point is low on my g60, is there adjustment, and if so how do it do it?

 

Thanks a lot

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Put simply, no.

 

Its a hydraulic self adjusting clutch so there is no way to change the bitting point, just means you might need a new clutch soon :(

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^ More likely a Hydraulic fault and probably the slave cylinder - check for fluid loss and fluid on top of the gearbox.

 

The bite point will get higher as the clutch wears.

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I had this problem on my G60. I had a new clutch fitted when the engine was rebuilt but it was still the same. I then replaced the slave cylinder and it is much better, but as I did not own the car when it was working correctly I have nothing to compare it to.

 

I have purchased but not yet fitted a new clutch master cylinder. I thought it best to replace that as well as the car is getting old now and it is probably original + the part has been discontinued by VW :cuckoo: and I managed to track one down. I will post my findings once I have fitted the master cylinder hopefully next week :D

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Yes, if you leave the slave faulty it will start to wear the master... as you say best to change both really on a 15+ year old car and I'd also consider doing the flexi pipe that leads to the slave.

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Yes, if you leave the slave faulty it will start to wear the master... as you say best to change both really on a 15+ year old car and I'd also consider doing the flexi pipe that leads to the slave.

 

I did think about that and must do that as well. Does anybody make an uprated part with a hose like the braided brake hoses?

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thats not good news!

 

It's had a new slave cylinder and clutch in our less than 15000 mile ownership - but was fitted at a back street type place before i was old enough to appreciate it/do it myslelf.

 

Is it possible it just needs the system bleeding, or anything else?

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Ok - it's most probably the master cylinder then as long as the clutch and slave that were fitted were good parts and the fork is not bent etc...

 

Worth checking the slave is a proper part (should be unpainted ally) and not painted bright silver like some dodgy ones that appear on eBay etc...

 

Any signs of dampness around the pipe or gearbox or inside the car around the pedal box?

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Is it possible it just needs the system bleeding, or anything else?

 

When I did my slave cylinder I had to bleed it a couple of times before it felt right.

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I'll have a check for oil seepage when it's light and update the thread, thanks for the help so far.

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There isn't any easily visable oil to mention around the slave cylinder or master.

 

Could anyone give me a quick run-through guide to bleeding the correct thing, i assume i'd bleed the slave?

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Excuse the schoolboy question,but;

 

I complained of a similar problem to C&R here in Nottingham. I pointed out that my new VR6 appears to have a newish slave cylinder and was told that therefore it's probably now time to look at replacing the master cylinder..

 

I was confused (coming from a Mk2 Golf / non-hydraulic background) that Steve indicated towards the brake master cylinder. Does the master cylinder actuate both the brakes and the clutch?

:confused4:

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nope, but the clutch master cylinder sits almost directly under the brake servo... ;)

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My 2.0l 8v has the same problem..But only when cold :confused4: It seems to cure its self (not totally tho) after about a 4 mile run.Almost as if the system needs to build up a little pressure so the pedal works its way back up :? I'm gonna try to book my car in at my local garage to see what they come up with..In the mean time I hope you get your's sorted mate..

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Yes, easiest way is to connect an EeziBleed kit to it and just let fluid flow thru...

 

I fitted a new master cylinder today to my G60 along with a new flexible hose to complement my new slave cylinder :D . I tried to bleed this and after an hour had got nowhere :brickwall: so invested in a pressure bleed. 5 minutes and it was all sorted, this is the only way to bleed the clutch hydraulic system :clap: :clap: Now my clutch biting point is perfect so the problem for me was definitely the master cylinder

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My 2.0l 8v has the same problem..But only when cold :confused4: It seems to cure its self (not totally tho) after about a 4 mile run.Almost as if the system needs to build up a little pressure so the pedal works its way back up :? I'm gonna try to book my car in at my local garage to see what they come up with..In the mean time I hope you get your's sorted mate..

 

Yeah it's a worn Master Cylinder mate, the piston seal is leaking, when it gets really bad you'll find yourself having to hook the clutch pedal up with your foot to pump it again before the clutch will operate properly- but it'll still get better after a few minutes. Still it means the clutch drags and is better fixed sooner rather than later.....

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My 2.0l 8v has the same problem..But only when cold :confused4: It seems to cure its self (not totally tho) after about a 4 mile run.Almost as if the system needs to build up a little pressure so the pedal works its way back up :? I'm gonna try to book my car in at my local garage to see what they come up with..In the mean time I hope you get your's sorted mate..

 

Yeah it's a worn Master Cylinder mate, the piston seal is leaking, when it gets really bad you'll find yourself having to hook the clutch pedal up with your foot to pump it again before the clutch will operate properly- but it'll still get better after a few minutes. Still it means the clutch drags and is better fixed sooner rather than later.....

Spot on mate... :clap: Yep new master and slave cylinder fitted..All is 100% now...

Appreciate every ones help and advise..

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Proper schoolboy question but when you say the biting point is high, does that mean close to the carpet? Got that problem with mine although doesn't seem too bad at the moment.

 

How much am I looking at for the parts mentioned above, i.e. - new master cylinder, new slave cylinder and new flexihose?

 

Roughly how much work in hours at a garage too? Don't want to get ripped off if I need to get this sorted!

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Proper schoolboy question but when you say the biting point is high, does that mean close to the carpet? Got that problem with mine although doesn't seem too bad at the moment.

 

How much am I looking at for the parts mentioned above, i.e. - new master cylinder, new slave cylinder and new flexihose?

 

Roughly how much work in hours at a garage too? Don't want to get ripped off if I need to get this sorted!

 

the receipt from my VR6's trip to C&R Enterprises has the clutch master cylinder part price listed as £66 plus VAT. The only hose I can see on the receipt is some "fuel hose 7mm rubber" at 2.85 plus VAT.

 

Sorry, I can't estimate labour hours, as they did a whole stack of other jobs at the same time (chains, clutch, plus loads of general loom tidying, gearbox fiddling / cleaning, rocker cover gasket etc etc..)

 

 

Chris

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Proper schoolboy question but when you say the biting point is high, does that mean close to the carpet? Got that problem with mine although doesn't seem too bad at the moment.

 

How much am I looking at for the parts mentioned above, i.e. - new master cylinder, new slave cylinder and new flexihose?

 

Roughly how much work in hours at a garage too? Don't want to get ripped off if I need to get this sorted!

 

I would allow about an hours labour, the slave cylinder takes 5 minutes, the flexi even less! But the master cylinder is a little more tricky and then you have to bleed it.

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I'm having a similar situation at the moment. My biting point is still really low even after having a new clutch, master and slave fitted. It's still really low can anyone help? It's been properly bled.

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Did you check the Clutch Fork, Langsam?

 

They can bend over time which can cause that issue. It's possible if the rest of the system has been renewed.

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