originality

[OSV 0]

[James. 9]

Door pins will fascinate me cos how are you getting the white plastic anti-rattle linings on???? .

 

Likewise... how much are they from the stealers?

 

A couple of quid each. I bought some a few months back.

[bruny 0]

Ah, so it's adjustable.

 

I know this is not a Corrado but a Sciroco Mk2. It gives you an idea of a well prepared engine bay. Note the shade of zinc on it. They are original.

 

Also, the coolant pipe clips on the cylinder head to radiator in grey are the shade I refer to in the previous post.

 

Door pins will fascinate me cos how are you getting the white plastic anti-rattle linings on???? Wouldn't be easier to buy two new door pins?

 

.

 

 

Yep, still learning how to use it, alot of shade options. My fisrt attempt wouldn't take the passivate, my 2nd attempt was way to dark after 2 dips and a bake!!

 

I may well end up buying new door pins if I can't fathom the plastic part :shrug: but more satisfying if I can restore original parts!!

 

The shade of zinc will have dulled off as it ages, I would have thought it would be brighter from new . I need to see some new bay shots if there are any out there :help: Failing that new VW may be similar to how the corrado was in its day!

 

I must admit to being impressed by CHR15_W's restored Golf bay at the show. Perhaps a little pimped but it shows the quality that can be achieved by a cheapish diy kit, I just need to fine tune it for concours standard... keen to learn though :)

[RW1 0]

Don't get me wrong though, what Drew does to the paint I think is great. And although blingy Mk1 cab. above, I like that too. You just have to make your choice, mine Concours so it obviously governs how I maintain the Corrado's condition.

 

Now... heres the the same Mk2 engine bay as my silver Scirocco above. As you say, there's an aging factor as well. The photo was taken the day I took delivery of the red Scirocco, brand new. I use this and a couple of others as reference photos as I continue to fettle the Silver one (as it was bought secondhand). The Sciroccos were produced 3 months apart. Notice how the zinc plate varies, but is dulled in most cases. But it is richer in colour,

 

Corrado92.pdf1990 Tornado Red Scirocco Scala Injection - 02a .jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0]

 

Here's the Corrado Storm in October 1996 when I bought it. It hadn't been serviced and I don't think the bonnet had been lifted other than to look at by the previous owner. (Photos are scanned). Note the covering of factory engine bay "wax". And you can see the blue clip on the header tank. Two more on the throttle body connections. The rad top hose is light grey and one of those (rear) to the thermostat housing is light grey. The rest are green.

 

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfCorrado Storm Oct1996 - 01a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0]

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCorrado Storm Oct1996 - 02a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0]

 

This is the Corrado at Stonor Park in June 2010, 14 years later. (Need to find what the factory "wax" VW part number soon that was spray across th engine bay. I think its AKR-321-M15-4 according to my VW Workshop manual on chemical materials. It states it a semi transparent wax for engines and gearboxes.)

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN7481a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0]

DSCN7482a.jpg[/attachment:3r00e0e0]

 

That should give you some ideas about what to do with the zinc plating.

 

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[bruny 0]

:clap: Thanks, great help Chris :notworthy: so wish I'd got into this earlier, maintaining a cracker has to be easier than renovating an average corrado.

[RW1 0]

It doesn't come easy cos its genuine VW parts, even if you do start with nearly new. I didn't really look after the Corrado that well until its 4th year when I decided to enter Stanford Hall concours. It took about 4th seasons to build the Corrado up and learn how the competitions work. And it needs dedication like Judith, Paul & Drew are doing. Neighbours think I'm mad with OCD the way the wheels are off being cleaned and put back on.

 

The Silver Scirocco for instance was originally a project to return the car to showroom condition. The idea being that when the white Mk2 I had got past it, I would be able to continue driving another "brand new" Mk2. When I initially finished it back in November 2000, I'd entered in a competition at VW Action at Peterborough and it had scored more than the Corrado was acheiving.

 

That year I spent £1,300 on replacement parts returning the car to "as factory new". Since then I've put around a further £800-ish into it. There are still some parts to change yet. Like the Corrado, I'm being caught up by obsolence. The Mk1 Golf/Scirocco suspension went that way last year. I just made it in time and put new original struts and springs on the front. The springs were the last of the Wolfsburg stock so bought 4 via VW Germany.

 

The Corrado is the same, parts are still around at VW but ever increasingly, I get told obsolete at the parts counter. Don't know how much I've spent over the years on it. But more recently, given the obsolence issue, I'm buying month by month the parts needed to keep it runing in the higher mileage life, ahead of the time they are needed. Or as I did 5 years ago, completely strip and stored the electrics & controllers etc from a crashed Storm.

 

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[KipVR 1]

Most of the VAG stuff from the Corrado era does not use plain yellow passivate, they use a rainbow passivate (more hard wearing), which can look slightly pinky purple in places (like oil in water). I can get you the spec when I go back to work on Monday if you like?

[bruny 0]

Chris,

Sorry ,I wasnt infering that you have it easy by any means, I'm just jealeous!! The condition of all your vehicles is a credit to the love and dedication you have and your knowledge is second to none :notworthy:

 

KipVR,

I think the rainbow effect can be obtained by clear passivate dip prior to the yellow and drying immediatly with a hair drier. I'm not sure whether you are saying the original would be plain and the new replacement parts are rainbow effect, :shrug:

I know that the modern process has changed owing to having to use safer chemicals, so it may not be possible to replicate excactly the same finish. Also many new Vag parts such as nuts/bolts atc are virtually unplated so corrode very rapidly, virtually any extra coating on these should be an improvement??

Piccies of the bonnet fixings would still be useful, thanks :clap:

[RW1 0]

:confused4: Never even thought of it that way.

 

Struggling in the dim light of garage with the camera today.

 

Spring is just bare metal. The whole pin, tighten collar and washer are the same as brake pipes. Always have been since new.

 

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCN8127a.JPG[/attachment:13qpnclw]

Top radiator hose connection and bolts. Bolts worse for wear cos of the airflow over them. They were quite bright when new, more so than the gearbox bracket below. Bottom radiator hose clip is green like the engine ones below.

 

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSCN8114.JPG[/attachment:13qpnclw]

Blue clip in header tank, two more as said on the two coolant pipes to the throttle body heating connections, same size clips. These are the only blue ones. The fan controller bolts were again brighter than the gearbox bracket below when new.

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN8115a.jpg[/attachment:13qpnclw]

On top of the rear engine mount where the lambda probe and knock sensor wiring is mounted. Looking worse for wear since I cleaned it and didn't WD40 it again - must do! The difference to the original finish as per the gearbox brackets which have never had their WD40 removed.

 

Corrado92.pdfRear Offside VR6 Engine Mount - 01a.jpg[/attachment:13qpnclw]

Two plates on top of the gearbox. The righthand one is representative of the original shade for all the parts. The camera has reproduced it faithfully in the photo.

 

DSCN8138a.JPG[/attachment:13qpnclw]

 

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[RW1 0]

Well, started to feel a little OCD this morning when I saw the state of the bonnet catch and even now the camera flash is showing I've missed a bit! Which isn't that visible in daylight. They are the original parts fitted at the factory. First time off since new but they don't look perfect do they considering that plate face was protected up against the bonnet paintwork.

 

First two are daylight only photographs.

 

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSCN8150a.JPG[/attachment:1gog0k6e]

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN8154a.JPG[/attachment:1gog0k6e]

 

DSCN8162a.JPG[/attachment:1gog0k6e]

 

These are the engine hose connections to the thermostat and the auxiliary water pump (far right).

 

passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCN8116a.jpg[/attachment:1gog0k6e]

 

Clip colours did vary in production years so obviously this is a 1994/1995 engine.

 

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[bruny 0]

Brilliant, exactly what I need.

It would appear the bonnet catch I thought was too dark isn't far of the mark.

The bonnet release catches do surprise me though. Could the pre-facelift models vary? 'cos the 2 early examples I have definately show remnants of silver and yellow. I suppose the green could have worn from the face of the pin but doubt if retainer and washer could change!!

The green and blue colour of the hose retainers will be interesting, trying to replicate them will be a challenge :clap: may have to resort to paint over zinc. Buying new vag items may have be the last option :(

[G-Lad 0]

I'm loving this thread! :salute:

 

:reindeer:

[RW1 0]

This is off the Silver Scirocco - July 1990 production, earlier to April 1995. Same part number, has never changed. 431 898 550. First hand here looking in the garage, they are plated identically.

 

The pin head beyond the white plastic collar is plated. Easier to see in this photo.

 

DSCN8166a.JPG[/attachment:1nbdc1e5]

 

OCD strikes again, I must resist. Where did you get the plating kit from Dave? Or better still ;)

 

@KIPVR, yes would like to know the original spec.

 

@G-lad... enjoy :)

 

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[bruny 0]

Plating kit was from Gateros plating at Bracebridge Heath in Lincoln, others are available but local to me and a helpful guy running the joint. He gave a quick demo before I bought and is happy to advise over the phone for backup etc.

PS. sorry if I've set you off as well :lol:

[RW1 0]

001.JPG[/attachment:339g8zr1]

If I look back at this photo, the plating looks too thick compared to VW. It's not the same finsh as the Mk1 cabi. It gives the look of painted on. I presume that is just the dipping time or cos they had two coats??

 

Is this the same type of kit?

 

Zinc Plating or Super Bright Zince plating or Electro-Brush on Zince Plating

 

.

[bruny 0]

I had another play yesterday, varying the length of time in the zinc elctrolyte from 20mins for the domed bolts [seems about right, fairly bright] to 1hour for the petrol tank strap retainer bracket [which was way to long resulting in a dark zinc finish]

 

Also throwing caution to the wind doubled the yellow passivate strength to 200ml in 4l in an effort to avoid a double dip, that prooved a failure as the zinc seems to have a limited ability to retain the passivate. As you can see from the photo all the later pieces have resulted in a dull passivate finish which is also patchy, when rubbed the passivate comes away, domed bolts showing this clearly, oh well back to the drawing board. :brickwall: 002.JPG[/attachment:1cta2d0k]

 

I dont know how to copy and sticky a site but Gaterosplating superbrightkit is listed at £55, I added the heater and pump and extra pickle. 01522800776/07908965042. I will be seeking more advice :lol:

 

The gti finish is much brighter a agree, it would seem that time/temp/brightener strength are all crucial for the zinc plate electrolyte, the clear passivate seems to be straight forward but I'm really struggling with the yellow finish, a tint is ok but more than that leaves an undourable finish :censored:

Ps. Looking closely at new vag hose clamps both the blue and green finish appear to be painted on over zinc finish,

[C5 OEM 0]

On the debate of originality where does waxoil fit in all of this..../? where would it of been used and are people who are restoring there cars going to use it as part of there process...???

[bruny 0]

Injected into panels shouldn't be a problem, clear on the underside is fairly easy to remove but dont use the black!

This may not help but from the VAG General body repairs manual:2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf004.JPG[/attachment:1o7gdxuq]005.JPG[/attachment:1o7gdxuq]

[RW1 0]

On the debate of originality where does waxoil fit in all of this..../? where would it of been used and are people who are restoring there cars going to use it as part of there process...???

@ Andy

 

Clear light yellow Waxoyl on all underside faces and into internal hollow sections but appears to be little in the passenger cabin other than access to inner sills & door bottoms. Never seen photos of this part of the assembly process at VW. It appears it was done after paint but before fixtures & furnishing were installed.

 

The VW stuff isn't the same "waxoyl" as waxoyl at Halfords though. VW's coating seems to be more solid, harder wax, even when it was new compared to the Finnigens Waxoyl.

 

Engine Bay lower parts appear to have been covered with waxoyl but the upper parts ie. inner wings, engine and gearbox received a harder solid coating which I think is AKR-321-M15-4. The material in the engine bay appears to fit the description VW provide. Will be buying some shortly to see if it the correct material. Cures at 80'C apparently. Shouldn't be much of a problem with a VR6 :lol:

 

The devil in waxoyl on the underbody is keeping it clean. Which is why I took mine off for concours.

 

The underbody/wheel arches is pre-treated with a rubbery type compound which forms a deadening skin. It extends up the side sills, that ripple that can be seen. Its part number is D 003 500 P. Comes in 1.3Kg tins. Repairs with it are quite easy. Brush on. Let it set and then over spray with the car's colour paint but not the lacquer for the underbody. Result is identical to factory. I think the wheel arches gain lacquer coat but haven't repair in any to look into it in detail.

 

--------------

 

@ Dave,

 

Maybe worth waiting until KipVR returns with the original spec. That may give you an idea of how to balance the chemicals. Rather than wasting loads with now result.

 

Can you clean off the zinc plating done so far?

 

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[Kevin Bacon 5]

I can see insulating tape instead of cloth tape up there, surely points knocked off for that? :lol:

 

Seems a bit harsh to have points deducted for replating hinges and catches the 'wrong colour'. How do the judges know what colour these parts should be? It's not unusual for OEM suppliers to change the materials and finishes of various parts without notice.

 

For example, in my parts bin I have a VR6 PAS pump made by KYB and one made by ZF. Both have the same p/n. How are the judges to know which one was fitted to my car at the factory?

 

Unless every single Corrado got exactly the same parts, then who is to judge what is original and what isn't? Unless the judges were there at the factory documenting every chassis number during assembly, there is no true reference for originality and therefore I conclude concourse is completely pointless and a waste of time :D

[davidwort 0]

... and therefore I conclude concourse is completely pointless and a waste of time :D

 

:lol: just keep out of the concours threads Kev, we know it's not your thing :)

it's not my thing either really but I can see how you can get drawn into it and I do love looking over the concours cars at shows even if it's mainly to work out what clips and bits are missing from my engine bays.

the part reconditioning info is a good read in here too

[Kevin Bacon 5]

... and therefore I conclude concourse is completely pointless and a waste of time :D

 

:lol: just keep out of the concours threads Kev, we know it's not your thing :)

it's not my thing either really but I can see how you can get drawn into it and I do love looking over the concours cars at shows even if it's mainly to work out what clips and bits are missing from my engine bays.

the part reconditioning info is a good read in here too

 

LOL, I didn't realise it was a concours thread at first :D I was interested in the deep wheelbolt recess covers for Speedlines because I need some for mine, so was hoping to see the part numbers and availability. Then it transcended into discussions about the colour of the plating and, well, you know me.....my Clarkson style of simple minded rubbishing kicked in :lol:

 

I'm not against concourse completely, but rather the analness of the marking regime. The colour of the bonnet catch plating is a step too far imo :D

[C5 OEM 0]

On the debate of originality where does waxoil fit in all of this..../? where would it of been used and are people who are restoring there cars going to use it as part of there process...???

@ Andy

 

Clear light yellow Waxoyl on all underside faces and into internal hollow sections but appears to be little in the passenger cabin other than access to inner sills & door bottoms. Never seen photos of this part of the assembly process at VW. It appears it was done after paint but before fixtures & furnishing were installed.

 

The VW stuff isn't the same "waxoyl" as waxoyl at Halfords though. VW's coating seems to be more solid, harder wax, even when it was new compared to the Finnigens Waxoyl.

 

Engine Bay lower parts appear to have been covered with waxoyl but the upper parts ie. inner wings, engine and gearbox received a harder solid coating which I think is AKR-321-M15-4. The material in the engine bay appears to fit the description VW provide. Will be buying some shortly to see if it the correct material. Cures at 80'C apparently. Shouldn't be much of a problem with a VR6 :lol:

 

The devil in waxoyl on the underbody is keeping it clean. Which is why I took mine off for concours.

 

The underbody/wheel arches is pre-treated with a rubbery type compound which forms a deadening skin. It extends up the side sills, that ripple that can be seen. Its part number is ********* (Will update tonight when I get home). Comes in 1ltr tins. Repairs with it are quite easy. Brush on. Let it set and then over spray with the car's colour paint but not the lacquer for the underbody. Result is identical to factory. I think the wheel arches gain lacquer coat but haven't repair in any to look into it in detail.

 

---

Thanks for that, need the rubbery compound for spot repairs underneath and plan to wax-oil parts of the engine bay and behind the bumper ect for future proofing.

[RW1 0]

The underbody treatment compound is PVC based.

 

The tin is marked as....

Long Term Underbody Protection D35.P

Part No. D 003 500 P

1.3Kg tin. Colour: Light Grey.

Its not a lifed item.

My tins are about early 1980's. As long as they remain sealed after use, it is lasting.

I guess the cost is about £25

 

Goodness knows how its sprayed on at the factory. Its really thick stuff.

 

The catalogue I have lists it as on Dave's repair manual as D 003 500 1 ltr. The difference is the "P" version is in a paint tin, the none "P" is in more like an engine additive tin can.

 

---------

 

I think the VW clear wax (waxoyl) is AKR 321 M16, Preservative Wax (transparent)

Comes in 300ml Aerosol as AKR 321 M15 4, 1 ltr tin AKR 321 M16 10, 10ltr tin AKR 321 M16 20. Not cheap as 1 ltr will be around £15 - £17.

 

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[James. 9]

OE BBS "Monte Carlo" wheel paint code ?

 

I've seen lods of threads on this but no ones thrown up a diffinitive answer. I once heard that Merc brilliant silver is almost identical.

 

Discuss