Sound proofing

[Rams 0]

Hi again!

 

I want to sound proof the car whilst the interior is out, is the best stuff the Dynamat extreme? Anyone have any pics of their car with it all stuck on or any tips in doing it?

[Abdul 0]

Not neccasarily (sp) the best but good stuff. Overpriced though tbh.

 

Clean the panels, cut into managable sized pieces depending on where you're deadening and you'll be fine. Invest in a roller and a heat gun too if you want.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I spent ages dynamatting mine years ago as it was a rolling project car for Audioscape and it didn't make much difference in terms of cutting exhaust drone etc.

 

What are trying to achieve?

 

You haven't said what model of C it is but the VR6 is a quiet car as standard, even by modern standards.

 

Bear in mind if you ever want to remove the mat in the future it's a nasty job and it also adds a lot of weight! If you're doing it for Audio reasons, just do the doors!

[VR6 0]

If you take on board just one CF post this year, make it this ^^^ one.

 

When it comes to Dynamat (other alternative products are available), Kev knows his stuff :lol:

 

This could be an urban legend, that I think I might even have started started, :grin: but did you once Dynamat your BMC? :scratch:

[davidwort 0]

I dynamat/brown breaded the whole of the inside of the doors (inside face of outside skin) and that takes a lot of road noise away, basic doors only have one small pad to cut down the worst of resonation from the factory, you can also do inside the rear side panels. Makes the doors feel much more solid and does cut down road noise a fair bit.

under the floor, back seat and rear floor I put an extra layer of dense felt (like the standard corrado sound absorbing under carpet felt, but without the bitumen layer which is heavy - I ripped it from old scrapped cars) and this made a big difference to the noise my stainless exhaust system makes, don't put felt anywhere where it can get wet obviously, like inside the doors, but it's great everywhere else, you're limitied a bit to how thick you can get it under the standard carpets though!

The dynamat type stuff is really best at stopping resonation on flat bare panels like inside doors, felt is better for sound absorbsion, look under the dash of a corrado and you'll see VW put a big thick felt pad under there to quieten the cabin from the engine, as well as plenty under the carpets.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

This could be an urban legend, that I think I might even have started started, :grin: but did you once Dynamat your BMC? :scratch:

 

:lol:

 

I think I did actually! I'm sure I remember tapping the lovely carbon fibre can and thinking it was a bit cheap and nasty, so dynamatted it :lol:

 

Do you think BMC would be interested in my improvements to their design? :D

[Rams 0]

This is the first time I have taken a car to this level and just want to do the job properly especially as all the interior is out. I'm one of these people that cant sleep if I hear a loud clock ticking etc so figured that if I sound proffed the car, it would acoustically sound better and perhaps, more like a merc. They always seem so quiet inside!

 

In my line of work, Property Management, I have had to sound proof a few flats and know the product only works if you do the whole area as far as you can reach, if you do just one section, the vibration will escape. I may be barking up the wrong tree but applied this theory to my car.

 

I don't want any thumping base, just crystal clear music, amped up. Its like going to a night club where they have the music so loud it distorts and sounds crap and you leave the club with a high pitch tone in your ear drums!I like quality of music now than apposed to how cool is it that my glasses fall off the dash from the base! Go easy on me, I just turned 29 last week, that age where you think, crumbs, I really am trucking on from what felt like sweet 25 not that long ago!

 

So, mixed replys about sound proofing. I hope Andy that your reply wasn't making out that I don't listen to anyones opinions? Im sure it's just how I read it and not literally as I do take on board people views otherwise, I wouldn't stick my hand up. Then again, I though you were saying to me if I sound proofed my bmc? Obviously not. I wanted to make mine louder at the time, back when I had Big Ram, Burgandy VR, many moons ago.

[VR6 0]

Sorry, nearly missed the last paragraph as my name's not Andy :)

 

My reply was to Kev's and was not, for one minute, suggesting that you don't listen to people's advice. I was basically just saying that Kev knows what he's talking about when it comes to most things but that boy has been through more Dynamat-type products than I've dished out bannings :lol:

 

I've sound-proofed mine but not to extremes. However, Kev Dynamatted his roof AND BMC air filter as he felt it was a bit too noisy :grin: so he's very much on your level in terms of approach to sound deadening. Basically if he says it doesn't make a huge amount of difference, you have to weigh up whether you think it's worth the time/cost.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Go easy on me, I just turned 29 last week, that age where you think, crumbs, I really am trucking on from what felt like sweet 25 not that long ago!

 

Wait until you turn 30! You'll be trucking your way towards 40 quicker than a Zonda gets to 60 :D

[fla 9]

a few things Rams. Are you trying to reduce noise or improve sound quality from your audio system? they are two separate issues. The former will be controlled by using Closed Cell Foam with a barrier on top, like the black layer on the existing sound proofing. If you want to improve your sql, then use a piece of damplifier/dynamat etc in the middle of your resonant panel. You only need to cover anbout 50% of the panel max. Incidentally, damplifier wont help that much with road noise, and to be fair its not really designed to do that.

I'm going to be ordering some Luxury Liner from Car Audio direct, which is basically the foam and barrier in one, which is then just stuck on to the inner skins of the doors and under the carpets. HTH

[Rams 0]

God knows why I called you Andy! Apologies!

 

My sister even wrote in my bday card, '' Its all down hill from now on and she should know''! LOL

 

I just hope I finish this car before im 50!

 

RE my goal is to achieve a better sound insulation and road noise together. I know the VR is quite quiet inside and this corrado seems to be the best one ive had so far, maybe this is the leather seating and door cards?? All my other c's have been cloth. My bonnet has had the sound deadening pads removed for paint and Im guessing it's wise to re fit this. They are in good condition also. I will also have the benefit of a stronger headlining and all pillars are being leather retrimmed so that should help too.

 

I will have a ganders on the site recommended above, cheers for that.

[fla 9]

Go easy on me, I just turned 29 last week, that age where you think, crumbs, I really am trucking on from what felt like sweet 25 not that long ago!

 

Wait until you turn 30! You'll be trucking your way towards 40 quicker than a Zonda gets to 60 :D

 

Oh thanks for that Haywire. I'll be 40 in Feb :( officially middle age :( :(

[Abdul 0]

Oh H, whats going on eh... lool

 

Rams, if you want proper SQ you have the wrong car unless you're willing to do sh*t loads of fabrication.

 

Personally, i'd do the roof, doors and rear quarters. You can do the boot floor too if you want but i'd stop there!

[bristolbaron 10]

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/72438/Sealants-Adhesives/Tapes/Insulating-Sealing-Tape/Flashing-Tape-225mm-x-10m

 

Perhaps not what you'd be after if you want to do things 'properly' but I used flashing tape on most of mine. The low cost of it compared to Dynamat means you can cover a large surface area for a relatively small cost. Perhaps use this on the floors and roof and Dynamat on the doors?

[davidwort 0]

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/72438/Sealants-Adhesives/Tapes/Insulating-Sealing-Tape/Flashing-Tape-225mm-x-10m

 

Perhaps not what you'd be after if you want to do things 'properly' but I used flashing tape on most of mine. The low cost of it compared to Dynamat means you can cover a large surface area for a relatively small cost. Perhaps use this on the floors and roof and Dynamat on the doors?

 

or a few pence cheaper from toolstation

and it's fairly light too, must be some kind of aluminium alloy and it works very well too

[fla 9]

tbh, i wouldn't really bother with flashing tape. I used that at the beginning when started getting into soundproofing and noise reduction and i realy wish i hadnt. Get some proper stuff - simply beacuse to get the same effect you ahve to use more of the flashing tape, whioch then ends up being in teh same sort of price band as the damplifier which you can usually get on offer. Do it once and do it properly, especially after all the time, money and effort spent on your super car. It really is impressive and i feel it would be a shame to finish off such a well executed car with cheap and ineffective products.

[Rams 0]

I have spent ages looking around at whats available and listening to opinions. I have decided to buy the Second Skin Damplifier Pro Black Bulk Kit and the Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro. I just need to work out how much of the latter I need. It comes as 9 square feet. Do you know roughly how much I will need.

 

Want to do roof, boot, centre console and doors and rear quarter panels.

At present, I ripped off the foam liner on the doors as it was riped and looked messy. Can I just use the second skin damplifier instead as the door membrane?

[fla 9]

no idea i'm afraid. There's not much room in the roof portion, so you might just get away with a piece of damplifier and thats all. I pulled off the foam on my door cards and binned them, then realised i should have kept them to use as templates for the new foam. Hang on to the old ones if its not too late!

Damplifier can indeed be used as the door membrane, but make sure you've done everyhting you want to inside the door as it will be a pain to remove to do any door maintenance. I'm redoing my doors this summer, and i might make up a trim piece to screw in to cover the door holes, then applying some damplifier on top of that. So it becomes a removable panel.

[dan 0]

Hi all, resurrecting this because I have a question. Does anyone know how to remove the inner trim covering the front wheel arches? I put sound proofing on the floor a few years back and iirc couldn't safely remove the trim around the wheel arches. Anyone know off the top of your head?

 

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[fla 9]

I've just removed the old soundproofing from my car. Got some closed cell foam and barrier mlv. Do these need to be stuck to the floor and each other or can they remain floating?

Thanks

[fla 9]

well ive been cutting out templates to cover as much of the floor area as possible and will have some floating insulation panels - it will be some closed cell foam adhered to a tecsound50 mass barrier which can be removed as necessary. Wasn't convinced by the pre-prepared ccf and mlv so lets see how this one goes...

The issue i see is covering as much area as possible to prevent any gaps for noise to get through. Plus the tunnel may be tricky as if its too thick the tunnel trim will not fit properly.

[James. 7]

Hasan. Whilst I’ve got the interior out, I’ll be looking to improve stereo quality and reduce road noise.

Been watching vids on Silent coat installation.

What are your top tips from the work you’ve carried out ?

.

[fla 9]

Tbh I haven't had much experience with the paint on solutions like silent coat. 

I found the following helped:

Single layer of damplifier or any constrained layer damping material on about 1/4 of each of the doors and rear quarter panels.

3mm closed cell foam to isolate a mass loaded vinyl layer under the carpet. I haven't taken my dash out but if you have I would certainly extend the CCF and mlv layer up and behind the dash.

I've also got some heavier open cell foam but I'm in two minds about using it in the door cards. The advantage is that it will help with absorbing airborne noise but being open cell it might hold some moisture that gets through. Then again that might not actually be anything at all.

I didn't stick the mlv to the CCF under the carpet but on hindsight it would have been better to have done so. I also stuck the adjoining prices with duct tape as close as possible to each other to reduce the risk of noise leakage through the gaps

I do feel that the firewall allows a fair amount of noise through but until I get the dash off and upgrade the soundproofing it just remains a theory.

The other thing I would suggest (and what I also need to do)is to check all the door seals inner and outer, as well as the sunroof seal. 

Hope that's of some use James. Incidentally I used tecsound50 as the mlv, and some 3mm and 6mm CCF from eBay. I'll dig out the reference shortly. 

 

[James. 7]

That helps a great deal thanks, and I think I’ve got my head around the products/terms and their uses now.

After applying the MLV and CCF to the doors, would you apply the OCF to the door cards, rear quarter cards and Even the roof ? (Working on the theory that you’d keep the OCF inside the cabin as to reduce the possibility of it absorbing moisture).

Apologies for the barrage of questions.

[Dox 23]

Have a look at door builds on youtube, try and fix the speaker to the door to seal the out of phase noise from the rear of the speaker cancelling what you want to hear out of the front. Fixing a speaker to the door card doesn't do this, you'll also use the volume inside the door to enhance bass.

 

Look after your hearing, at 55 I now have a buzzing in my right ear, female voices on satnav etc drive me mad, getting rid of roadnoise etc is a really good idea over turning up the volume!