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tony_ack

Ant's VR6

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More rust found at the weekend. To be honest, it's a rust hole that I knew about, as I'd already found it from the inside of the boot, but I guessed it would be a good idea to get the rear bumper off and have a proper look at the back panel.

 

IMAG0476.jpg

 

IMAG0470.jpg

 

Like the rest of the car, the back panel is in decent condition (except for the hole). There is a fair sized bubble on the right rear quarter under the bumper, and a couple of rust spots on the visible part of the back panel, but they appear to be isolated. Not too sure what caused the rust hole. It's on the seam, but in a bit of an odd place, so I suppose it could be put down to bad sealing at the factory?

 

The rust hole is going to be repaired at the bodyshop with some new metal to be welded in.

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Could well be at the factory matey, I think most of us have sections of our C's reminiscent of Firday Afternoon Cars :(

 

Also, do you think you could resize your pictures when you upload, maybe 800x600? I'm worried I might havr to book holiday to trek across those landscapes of pics you're linking to! ;)

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Could well be at the factory matey, I think most of us have sections of our C's reminiscent of Firday Afternoon Cars :(

 

Also, do you think you could resize your pictures when you upload, maybe 800x600? I'm worried I might havr to book holiday to trek across those landscapes of pics you're linking to! ;)

 

Oops, that's odd, they seem to display fine on my computers... current screen resolution is 1366x768, and they take up about half of the screen width? Anyone else have problems? I know they're quite high res pics, but I always assumed the forum resized them to the size of the frame they're contained in?

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I think perhaps the browser may resize them and I'm runnig IE6 at work. My res it 1280x1024, and the pics are 3106 x1857 and showing at full scale :/

 

Probs just this old computer then! Sorry about that :bonk:

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mine was going in that area but a little to the left but no where near as bad as yours, seems like i got it just in time,

aww edit, no it didnt lol thought it was in a different place, lol where you have that little bubble to the left of the vw badge, mine also had that which turned into a 10p hole also along the lower edge thats where i had slight surface rust comming through which sanded out a treat.

Edited by VW_OwneR_85

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Damn I'll get the bodyshop to look at the rust spot near the badge too in that case! To be honest, it was one of the bits that was going to be sorted anyway... if they have to do some welding near the seam, then it shouldn't be too much hassle if they have to weld a bit under the rust spot. Looks like it might be a back panel respray thoguh :-(

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One of *those* days today.

 

I started off trying to paint the areas of the battery tray I'd ground the rust out of, but the weather was far too cold for painting, and my usual trick of warming up the engine to warm and dry the paint wouldn't work because the battery was flat and I couldn't start the car.

 

I finally found another set of jump leads, so I could jump start from the Audi ( I was using the first set of jump leads to connect the battery to the car while keeping the battery tray clear).

 

After running the car for about 10 minutes I noticed a patch of wetness (wasn't sure if it was oil or water) on the airbox side of the block, just under the headgasket. It looks pretty ominous like it may be seeping from the headgasket? It could be the start of a head gasket failure? Or possibly from the water pump? I decided to check for other signs of headgasket issues. Coolant is clean, and it doesn't use any. No mayo on the oil cap, and when I did the oil change a couple of months ago, the oil seemed pretty normal. I've never known the car to smoke. I took off the Schrick to check the plugs (the plugs need changing anyway).The plugs were all a little sooty (possibly as it's not been driven for a while but has been started a few times), but dry - no oily plugs at all, and 1 and 6 looked probably the best of the lot. So that was a relief at least. But now I need to replace the Schrick gaskets, and one of the HT leads fell apart so the car is now further away from being on the road than ever. Add the plugs onto that and we're already over £100 of parts.

 

I also spent a little time today mulling over the aircon. I think that the pipes connecting to the expansion valve coming out of the bulkhead are going to be obstructed by the ABS pump, so that is a worry. I did however start connecting the wiring to the fan controller, so a little progress there.

 

I was hoping to get the Corrado back on the road next week on a classic policy as a weekend car, but looks like that's on hold now.

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Its often one step forward two steps back with a rado, but i always look at is as three jobs done in the end :)

 

Is the leakage not from the rocker cover gasket? It's common down that side of the block...

 

Jay

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Here's a pic, but it is quite hard to see down there with a camera

 

IMAG0500.jpg

 

I don't think it's from the rocker cover gasket - it just doesn't seem to be coming from there and it was replaced with a VW item about 6 months ago. The only other thing could be the water pump, but it was done about 8 months ago. Perhaps (wishful thinking) it is old leakage from before the rocker gasket was changed? There are absolutely no other signs of HGF, though looking at the invoice for the chains that were done about 30k miles ago, there is no mention of replacing the head gasket which is ominous. That said, I don't think it'll be on its original head gasket at 222000 miles

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looks like a previous mechanic did not clean up properly. Could also be an oil drip from the PCV valve, or the flexi from the air filter. Wipe it up and see if it comes back

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I reckon thats left overs from the rocker cover gasket. As suggested, clean it up a bit and see what comes back. This is the reason while I had the chance when I had the front end off I cleaned the block up etc.. Had an oil leak over the last couple of days and could smell it burning on the exhaust, but the actual source was the oil pressure switch on the front of the block, would have been very hard to tell if it was all filthy still.

 

Jay

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Well, been a slow-ish month for the Corrado. The oil 'leak' was cleaned up and hasn't returned which is good. the battery tray is now finished - in that it should be good enough to at least last until I get a proper repair done. I'm lad I did it when I did, as in another couple of years, it may have been too far gone.

 

I managed to grab a few interior bits off Matt8v which will either replace the last few remaining black bits, or replace some of the more tatty beige interior trim - in theory this should be an easy enough (and non-dirty!) job to do, but in reality I just haven't had time.

 

The bonnet release is completely messed up, but it's not the usual issues. The actual catches work, but the cable is behaving a bit weird. First of all, the cable seems to stick a little when you pop the bonnet open and it doesn't let the catches swing back into position - meaning that when you close the bonnet, it won't close (until you move the catches back into place by hand). I guessed that part of the problem might be that the cable wasn't being routed correctly, or one of the fixings for the cable had come loose, so I dismantled the bonnet release lever to try and see what was going on there. It looks like a little clip may have broken near the lever, so a new one of those may be needed. Luckily I can still open and close the bonnet okay (pulling the cable in the footwell with some mole grips) so I can still drive the car okay.

 

And drive it I can as it is now taxed and insured. I've been out a couple of times in it - it always seems a shame to have to take it back to the garage at night but looking at the weather at the moment, I'm so glad it's tucked away.

 

Another problem that seems to have come back is the starting problem - just before I put the car away, I started having problems starting the car occasionally. I would turn it over but it just would not start, and I would hear a relay clicking from the back of the car (fuel pump area). One possibility was the crank position sensor, so I'm going to replace that to see whether it makes a difference. The only thing I'm worried about is that the car can be fine for a few weeks, and then the problem will strike again when I least expect it, with the potential to leave me stranded - so even if I do change the sensor, I won't be confident driving it for a month or so.

 

The only other thing on my mini-list of things to do is finally replace the leaky PAS pipe - the luid is getting low now so I may as well replace it instead of keep topping it up. I already have the pipe, so just need to get time to do it now.

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I've been finding the Audi a little boring as a daily driver, so I've had the Corrado out for the last week or so. The first thing I noticed was that the battery was pretty much dead, so I've swapped that. It's been starting okay since then. The crank sensor played up a couple of times when I first got the car out, but after wiggling the wire a bit, it always starts. I had a go at replacing the sensor but the bolts were seized and I didn't have much time, so I gave up.

 

Other than that, the Corrado has been well behaved. But I'm on a limited mileage insurance policy, so can't drive it indefinitely. However I've found someone interested in the Audi, who wants to swap for a MK2 Golf GTI... so fingers crossed I may soon have a new daily.

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Sorted out a new daily at last!

 

The Audi just wasn't doing it for me so I offered it for swaps for a Golf GTI (MK2 or MK3). After quite a long wait, something came up trumps:

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=221254.0

 

A runout MK2 Golf GTI 8v, 5 door (for the little 'un). It looks very clean on the outside but it's quite ropey mechanically. But it's a good base for a new daily once I sort out a few of the issues. First task is to clean out the crank breather as there's a lot of pressure in the crankcase... if that doesn't work then it may be time to look for a new engine!

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Gave the MK2 a clean today, and it shines up very well. However it somehow manages to be both the best looking and at the same time, roughest MK2 I've had. The paint looks very very good, however there are a few areas where it has peeled slightly. Then there is the rust... all hidden underneath. There is some dodgy rust near the fuel filler (but strangely under the filler flap is completely clean) some welding around one of the jacking points, one of the sill lips looks a little... crusty... a couple of holes in the battery tray (battery is actually loose as the securing ridge is no longer attached) and a few other bits.

 

Mechanically, it's rough as well. There seems to be a lot of blow-by through the dipstick and oil filler, so there could be some wear to the piston rings, but the crank breather is probably blocked too. She runs rich so probably needs tuning. She uses loads of oil which I suspect is escaping from the oil cooler. The front tyres are ditchfinders and the handling is a bit skittish in the wet.

 

But I have to admit despite it's faults, I'm really pleased with it. It's got all the 8v smoothness, and still pulls really well despite the running issues.

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The tax ran out on this last week, and I can't afford another 6 months right now, so I've had to SORN this. Problem is that the MOT expires in a couple of weeks too, so it may end up being quite costly to get it back on the road again.

 

I used her daily for the 2 weeks prior to the tax running out, and loved every minute... it was a sad day when she had to go back into the garage.She starting to need a bit of bodywork attention too now, as can be seen in the pic.

 

A couple of farewell shots...

 

IMAG0450.jpg

 

IMAG0455.jpg

 

Hope to get it back on the road when finances pick up...

 

Meanwhile, I'm rolling in the MK2 Golf - it's starting to come together a bit now, and not doing bad really for 215000 miles (still 10000 less than the Corrado tho!)

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Dear Coraline (the Corrado),

 

I O U:

-1 x blue expansion tank cap

-1x Blaupunkt headunit

-1x OEM toolkit

 

Always a bad sign when you start 'borrowing' bits from SORN'd cars...

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MOT'd and taxed today!

 

Failed the MOT on three corroded brake lines last week - it's been into the local specialist for these and was finished this morning!

 

Brake pedal is very spongey at the moment. The guy who did the work knows his VWs but was a bit stumped, and is happy to bleed them again FOC next week if they don't settle down (last time I bled them, the brakes improved over the course of the week). He bled all 4 corners and the ABS pump as well.

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Some days you feel the car is really out to get you...

 

I need to change the front left and right rear ABS sensors as they're causing occasional ABS light issues. It was a nice-ish day today, so I thought it was a good opportunity to tackle them. Besides, it can't take long to replace a sensor, right?

 

Wrong.

 

I tackled the rear one first. The bolt came out fine but the sensor was seized in. I tried pulling to out, and the sensor fell to bits, leaving the metal casing in the hub. After much hammering and Plusgas later it finally loosened up but then I must have pushed it through to the other side. Damn.

 

So I had to pull the rear brakes apart to get at it from the other side. Finally got it out, reassembled the brakes and got the new sensor. But it wouldn't fit in the hole. The hole didn't feel too corroded, but I tried to sand it down anyway, but it didn't make much difference. I ended up snapping the bolt hole off the new sensor. I was about to give up but then I thought 'sod it, it WILL work'. I glued the sensor back together, dismantled the brakes again and got my drill out so I could widen the hole a little and get rid of the remaining corrosion. Finally, it fit like a glove, and I reassembled it all for the second time.

 

Routing the wire wasn't the easiest thing to do in the world with the car on the floor, but was a walk in the park compared to getting the sensor out. But then I completely forgot how to remove the rear seats and spent a while battling with those.

 

It took me nearly two and a half hours in total. The sun was getting low and I thought about doing the front sensor. It looked at the new part. I seemed easy compared to the rear one. How hard can it be? Then I saw sense and went inside. Nothing is ever easy on the Corrado. That battle can wait for another day.

 

If I was doing this job again, I'd remove the discs immediately once I'd found the sensor was stuck. It improves access massively, and the exposed sensor gives your hammer something to aim at.

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Over 4 years since the last post! She still exists.

 

The Schrick and cams made way for standard to make a bit of money back

BBS RCs made way for Solitudes

 

Bodywork is looking a little worse for wear, but running fairly well. I replaced the ball joints, rear wishbone bushes and top mounts - it now handles better than it's ever done

 

Had a split downpipe, failed rear wheel bearing and failed front wheel bearing all leading to lengthy stays on the drive, but back on the road now.

 

Sunroof is bust

 

I never did get round to installing the aircon

 

A never-ending list of jobs to do on it

 

I STILL haven't found the squeak at the rear...

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After the MOT failure in 2017, the car's been stood on the drive. I did consider welding myself and then decided against it. Then I was kind of paralysed by the fear of what it would cost to get the underside of the car sorted by a professional.

 

I don't know what changed this month, but I decided to take action and get a quote for the welding to the sills and arches. I got a quote from a recommended guy that was a lot lower than I had feared, and he also managed to locate two new sills from Germany which he'll swap in.

 

The car should be ready to go into the workshop in a couple of weeks' time - I'm now in the process of removing the carpets, interior and some of the body panels to help with the prep. The guy is doing a mini-restoration to the underside, so it will come back after all fixed up and protected.

 

It's just the start of the journey. The car will still need paint over the repairs when it comes back, and then a couple of mechanical repairs for the MOT, but it's exciting to see that there's a way ahead now.

 

I'm thinking of doing the spraying myself - I have a compressor that came with a paint gun, and I'm looking into options for a temporary spray booth (closed side gazebos). I've had decent results when painting before when I haven't rushed and made sure I followed the process carefully, so I'm feeling fairly confident.

 

This is only until I get a full respray, but that's a bit further down the road.

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Good news! Sounds like it is worth doing the spraying yourself as it's usually a textured finish on the sills anyway :)

 

Are we talking thousands for welding? Just interested if I ever have to do it myself. My Jacking points had some surface rust but it's been treated and sealed for now :|

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£600 including the new sills. Might go up a bit as I find other patches as I pull back the carpets!

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